Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

During the early 1970's Japanese guitar manufacturers Ibanez and produced a number of brand name copy instruments. These manufacturers copied the most popular instruments. One of the more popular basses copied was the Rickenbacker 4001 model.

The following characteristics will help you identify a Rickenbacker 4001 bass copy

1. No manufacturers name indicated on truss rod cover. Real Rickenbackers have the words "Rickenbacker" on all truss rod covers. [Note: Many Rickenbacker copies have their truss rod covers switched with real Rickenbacker truss rod covers.]

2. Bolt-on neck construction. Rickenbacker basses have neck-through body construction. [Note: There were a few Rickenbacker bass models that had bolt-on necks. These models are typically not copied. Also some early 70's Rickenbacker basses have set-neck construction.]

3. Indicator dots on pickguard. Rickenbacker basses do not have indicator dots on their pickguards.

4. Dark rosewood fingerboard. Rickenbacker basses have orange/brown Padauk fingerboard.

5. No manufacturer's name on the sealed back tuning keys. Rickenbacker basses made in the early 70's and early 80's have the "Grover" manufacturer's name on the tuning keys.

6. The words "Stereo" and "Mono" written on the jackplate. Rickenbacker basses have "Rick-O-Sound" and "Standard" written in black ink on jackplate.

7. Square pole pieces on the bridge pickup. Rickenbacker bass bridge pickups have round "mushroom" or "button" top pole pieces.

8. White switch cap. Rickenbackers switch caps are black.

9. "Made in Japan" on neck plate. See Item #2. Rickenbacker basses are made in the USA.

10. Large chrome pickups with eight adjustable pole pieces. Rickenbacker pickups have four "mushroom" or "button" top pole pieces.

11. Knobs that with the words "Volume", "Volume, "Tone" and "Tone" written on the silver tops. Rickenbacker bass knobs say "Bass Volume", "Treble Volume", "Bass Tone", and "Treble Tone".

12. Black thumb/finger rest. Rickenbacker basses made up to early 70's had a clear plastic finger rests.

Please note that many of these items can be switched for real Rickenbacker parts. Also, some aftermarket parts may be swapped out for original Rickenbacker parts. Therefore you must compare several characteristics.

Please feel free to e-mail me or post further questions or comments here.

If you are not sure what it is that you are looking at ,there is one sure fire way to tell.Guitar shops in Western Washington all know me and when someone sees me coming in and I'm armed with a small tool kit,I'm there to authenticate an instrument or see if it can be adjusted for a customer or a friend.

By the way this service is NOT FREE!

I always check the truss rods.If they are metric...then it's not USA made.
I have dial calipers that are both metric and inches.This is a sure test.
I also measure parts.USA guitar parts are always in inches and German and Asian parts are 99%metric.You also have to familiarize yourself with the components of the product.
Most USA made instruments use CTS pots (although there are a few exceptions to this)
And either Switchcraft or Centralab selector switches.
And ALL of them use Switchcraft 1/4" jacks.At least the ones in Gibson,Fender,Rickenbacker,Guild,Martin,Ovation,
Hamer,and all the boutique makers like Tom Anderson,etc.
NON of the Asian guitars that I come across have this jack.Plus I measure the plug area and see if it's metric or not.

After you look at the real thing long enough you will start to see the differences.
There is nothing like the original.

Please find below an example of an Ibanez Copy of a Rickenbacker Model 4001 in Mapleglo.

I recently purchased a battle worn jet-glo 4001. The serial # dates it as August '76. While in the process of cleaning it up I noticed that the tuning keys do not have a name on them and that the body cavity routing is quite rough in some areas. What are the chances that this is a copy?

Gary: I don't think the chances are good that it is a copy. From what I have read, and others will jump if I'm wrong, most of the copies were made in the early 1970's. It is not unusual to see machine heads that have been replaced on instruments that are 25 years old. A photo would certainly help others rule out a copy and information with regard to the serial number and codes on the pots from inside the bass may be helpful.

I have a '73 4001 that has no name on the back of the machine heads but I have seen countless others from the same time period and later that have no name on them -- that does not necessarily mean they are replacements, or that the bass is a copy.

On this subject of Rick bass tuners, as to whether
there is a name written on them or not, it's basically this simple;with the exception of the model 4002 bass[which used Schaller M-4 gears], any basses you see from the 50s on had Kluson
tuners, and had No name on them at all.Then in late 60s, you started to see[alternating with Klusons, depending on availability, as I understand]the "rectangular boxed-cover" Grover
tuners, which Do say "Grover" on the back of the cover.Then, in the mid 80s, when Rick began the "V" series Reissues, they had Schaller make them tuners that essentially look like the old Klusons, but chrome plated, Not nickel, like the Klusons were, and these "Kluson"/Schallers were made with the "Rickenbacker" trademark script in ttiny letters on the backs of them.

Oh, I just caught myself fogetting a couple
Rick bass models and what gears they use. I mentioned above that the old 4002 used Schaller
M-4 tuners, but, the 8 string 400[3?] and the
4003/5 string Also use the M-4 gears.

Thanks to everyone for all the information concerning my battle worn 4001. I could certainly use the help of someone like Mark the MD to get my Rick back into good condition. Anyone out there in the greater Seattle area?

GT,
Good news for You; Mark IS in the greater Seattle area!!!

Here is another 4001 Rickenbacker Copy made in Japan by Greco in the 1970s.

To help with a definitive answer to my ??s on my 4001 the serial # appears to be PH 5900. (the jack plate is badly damaged and difficult to read, could be 5800) Inside the body cavity, written in pencil is 4001-L-W. Also in darker pencil, the letter M followed by a period. (M.) From what I can see of the codes on the pots, tone: 31056-137752 and volume: -1377605. Can't make out the full number. Thanx again for the responses.
Mark, thanx for contacting me. Looking forward to meeting you.

Gary,

It sounds like your bass is the real deal. Fake ricks are usually obvious fakes.

I highly recommend Mark Arnquist. He does a hell of a job!

Is this a Rickenbacker Copy??? opinions please...

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=484986764

The bridge is one that was made by a now out of business company from San Francisco ,calif.USA....'Stars guitars'

The bridge is a plate of milled brass that has saddles similar to a Fender bridge.
The cavity that is routed into the face was filled and this bridge would be screwed to the face .Basically ,a fender design in a Rick shape.

Other wise it looks ok .

The Schaller tuners were typical replacements from the 1980's