Truss Rods
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Truss Rods
A question: If a truss rod has a tight feel (meaning hard to twist) would that necessarily mean it is too tight to turn or at its max, or are some rods just inherently tight??? (acoustic or electric).......I have to feel a bit scared when they have an abnormal amout of resistance.
Truss rods in Ricks is an art.
The old version (this has the aluminum block and the two 1/4" steel nuts visable ) is a tempermental system.When adjusted by someone that understands it it works fairly well.
In the hands of anyone that thinks it works the same as a Fender rod ,will be sorely mistaken.
The new rods ....these have a thin bar ,a steel washer and the nuts ,are easy to operate and industry standard.
I some time back off the nuts ,after loosening the strings ,put a drop of light machine oil on the threads,retighten the nuts.The oil is to keep the nuts from rusting on to the steel rods (in time ) .I over adjust on some necks and then tune them .This is more common on basses.Fender Jazz Basses are almost always done this way.
The other reason for backing off the nuts is to see if there are any threads left.This rarely happens ,but can be fixed by adding a washer.
What kind of instrument do you have?
The old version (this has the aluminum block and the two 1/4" steel nuts visable ) is a tempermental system.When adjusted by someone that understands it it works fairly well.
In the hands of anyone that thinks it works the same as a Fender rod ,will be sorely mistaken.
The new rods ....these have a thin bar ,a steel washer and the nuts ,are easy to operate and industry standard.
I some time back off the nuts ,after loosening the strings ,put a drop of light machine oil on the threads,retighten the nuts.The oil is to keep the nuts from rusting on to the steel rods (in time ) .I over adjust on some necks and then tune them .This is more common on basses.Fender Jazz Basses are almost always done this way.
The other reason for backing off the nuts is to see if there are any threads left.This rarely happens ,but can be fixed by adding a washer.
What kind of instrument do you have?
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Well....thankfully it is not a Rickenbacker that needs adjusting in this instance...they don't give me any trouble!! It is an Epiphone acoustic, which has an allen head setup where you use a hex key; I was trying to take a bit of the bow out of it and thought it was a bit snug, so I didn't bare down on it. Definitely more effort here than on my Taylor. Just for the record, I haven't had to adjust any of my Ricks in 20 years. They all play like butter. 
Your rods need two things .
1. a drop of oil on the threads
2. you need to get a couple of #10 or #8 steel washers.
You have most likely bottomed out on the threads.
To fix this the nut must be moved away from the end of the threads.Insert one washer and see what that does .If you don't get any help with that ,go to a Gibson warranty station and have the service center check it out .
DON'T try to torque the nut .If the warranty station breaks it ...it will be replaced ,if you break it ....you may be labeled as a 'bone head' and be out of luck.
This is a continuing problem with Asian guitars .Mostly the Korean and 1970's Japanese instruments.Probably one of the reasons that Rickenbacker will NEVER go overseas.
1. a drop of oil on the threads
2. you need to get a couple of #10 or #8 steel washers.
You have most likely bottomed out on the threads.
To fix this the nut must be moved away from the end of the threads.Insert one washer and see what that does .If you don't get any help with that ,go to a Gibson warranty station and have the service center check it out .
DON'T try to torque the nut .If the warranty station breaks it ...it will be replaced ,if you break it ....you may be labeled as a 'bone head' and be out of luck.
This is a continuing problem with Asian guitars .Mostly the Korean and 1970's Japanese instruments.Probably one of the reasons that Rickenbacker will NEVER go overseas.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Thanks Mark..It is my Girlfriend's guitar and I was trying to get the playability a little better. Maybe I'll get her a 730 Comstock for her birthday !!! I tend to be scared of making those adjustments as a rule simply 'cause I don't think I can trust myself, even when I follow directions.
Call it 'Trussrodophobia' !!!
Call it 'Trussrodophobia' !!!
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Jim_D
Just so I can appreciate the workings of these fine instruments. The newer style Ric truss rods are pretty much standard? Looking at the neck of my 360/12v64 from the bridge pickup the rods are visible. I assumed they could be removed across the body, after the pickups were removed? But I gather they are set into the neck like Kalamazoos. When tightening for bow or relief, could the neck also have a tendency to bend to the bass or treble directions? I guess causing a twist or warp?
NO! the rod is set in a curved bed ...when you tighten it ...it is actually trying to straighten itself .The center wants to come up .The pressure is not against the back of the neck but the filler strip over the rod.It does not move side ways.
The rod (at least in most makers ) has some kind of material around it to keep it from rattling when you bump the back of the neck.This will also keep the rod snug in the cavity .
The rod (at least in most makers ) has some kind of material around it to keep it from rattling when you bump the back of the neck.This will also keep the rod snug in the cavity .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!