Slotted bridge plate
Posted: Sat Nov 27, 2004 9:42 pm
Being a new comer to this forum, from the land of Aus,(tralia), I'm keen to get the best tone and tuning out of my 360/12v64. Have had great help on specific points, but now I want to improve set up, (have tried a private post - but think I've worn out my welcome.)
A lots be written in the past about intonation problems with this guitar. On searching through for answers I noticed a slotted baseplate was now being offered by Rickenbacker. Has anyone bought one and recommends doing so? Like many other people I'm not keen to drill holes in the body even if they will be hidden by a repositioned bridgeplate. Now here's where I show some ignorance, If you can intonate all strings by removing springs from the bridge and have the saddles hard back, why is it an advantage to shift the bridgeplate, put the springs back and have the saddles intonated at roughly the centre of the bridge? Just so the load on the four bridge height screws are evenly loaded? And to stir up the 6 saddle 12 saddle issue has this really been resolved yet?
Cheers
Ron
A lots be written in the past about intonation problems with this guitar. On searching through for answers I noticed a slotted baseplate was now being offered by Rickenbacker. Has anyone bought one and recommends doing so? Like many other people I'm not keen to drill holes in the body even if they will be hidden by a repositioned bridgeplate. Now here's where I show some ignorance, If you can intonate all strings by removing springs from the bridge and have the saddles hard back, why is it an advantage to shift the bridgeplate, put the springs back and have the saddles intonated at roughly the centre of the bridge? Just so the load on the four bridge height screws are evenly loaded? And to stir up the 6 saddle 12 saddle issue has this really been resolved yet?
Cheers
Ron