Original 450/12 Bridge vs 12 Saddle

Setup, repair and restoration of Rickenbacker Instruments

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Original 450/12 Bridge vs 12 Saddle

Post by admin »

I purchased a very nice 450/12 Fireglo a few years back that had a couple of modifications including a 12 saddle bridge. It intonates beautifully and so why touch it, you might well "arsk"? Well, I understand that the original bridge may provide for more sustain and it certainly fills the slot better than the 12 saddle replacement. I am wondering if there may be a noticeable sound difference and whether I will be sacrificing intonation by making the change. I could go ahead and try it, however, if you know what the outcome may be from previous experience it may save me a couple of hours work. I have posted a photo of the original bridge below.
Image
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Mark

Post by Mark »

I'd leave the 12 saddle bridge on it .
The old cast saddles sag and they have less mass ,also less sustain.There is no way to achieve perfect intonation on one of those.The low E pair are so far apart (the low E is the farthest away from the neck and the E octave runs about the same distance from the neck as the wound G string)and the A's are very close to the same distance (they would work)but the D and the G have an offset of about.060 ,from the standard string to the octave and by the time you try to shape this ...even with a strobe tuner ,you run out of room.
Stay with the 12 saddle bridge.This was a mod (if done well ) that should have been done in the first place.Being that Rickenbackers are generally considered to be the BEST 12-string makers in the world.
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Post by admin »

Thanks Mark. This was my suspicion and why I have left the modification be since I purchased it. I very much appreciate your observations and comments with regard to this issue.
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Robin_Reda

Post by Robin_Reda »

Hi Mark,

I've just bought a 330/12 brand new because I don't want to gig with my '66 360/12. The action on the 330 is a little high. If I lower the saddles any more, the strings will touch the pickups when fretted. Also, I think there's just about the right amount of a cradle in the neck and I'm leary about tweaking the rod to bring that neck back.
Is there any why I could lower the pickups? I can't belive Ric didn't set it up a little better than that. What do you suggest?
Thank You, Rob R.
Mark

Post by Mark »

You need to go to my posting on how to adjust truss rods.There is a check list that must first be gone thru.Then the pickup matter can be addressed.

If you have done this then you can move on ,but not until you do.ALL gret repair people do this and hackers just start by getting out a screw driver and going at it.The system must be checked first and assessed.

If all is ok then there are 2 different methods that are used to hold the pickups at a given height.

1- the foam ring. these are fairly forgiving and you can just go ahead and use your #1 phillips head screwdriver and lower away.

2- the rubber grommets. You only have so much compression that these will take.If you can't lower the pickup to satisfy your needs then you must get a razor blade and slice the grommets in half.A pair od scissors could work (I use a utility knife ).If this is too much relace the pieces and adjust accordingly.This is what we did at the assembly table / bench at the Kilson Drive plant when I worked there.

But go thru the check list first.This may be where your real problem lies.

The bridge pickup will always need to be closer to the strings as there is less string movement there and the neck pickup will need to be the furthest from the strings.Press the strings downat the last fret and that gives you the distance at the lowest the strings will ever get.You need to clear them.I'm rambling here so let me know what happens
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