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Adding Washers to Truss Rod

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2001 6:06 am
by az4stringer
Hi Everyone:

I have 4003 bass I purchased new in May of 2000. After numerous small truss rod adjustments, the truss rod nuts will not tightened any further. I read in this great forum that one can add washers to the truss rod threads to allow further adjustments. I am afraid if I tightened the truss rods any further I will break off the threads. My questions are:

What are the correct steps to add the additional washers? Is it a good idea to loosen the strings first to take tension off the neck? Should I remove both nuts at the same time or one at a time from each of the truss rods?

Thank you in advance for all your help. I really love this bass so I want to make sure I do this correctly.

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2001 1:02 pm
by johnhall
I think if you are going to do this, you'll want to add the washers at the pickup end of the fingerboard. Loosen the string tension, remove the nut from the rod in question and gently tap it into the neck, exposing the nut at the other end. Add your washer under THAT nut, since it's most likely the problem is at that end of the truss rod anyway. Reverse your steps here and you're all set, with additional adjustability to the tune of the thickness of the washer(s).

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2001 3:34 pm
by ric325
Mr Hall,

I never would have thought to place the washers at that end of the rod!

Please explain why you say the problem is probably at that end of the truss rod, and advise what washers to use (part # 06121?).

As you know, I snapped my truss rod some time ago, and will be ordering new parts for repair soon.

Many thanks!

Steve

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2001 3:48 pm
by markthemd
At what end did you snap the truss rod?

Do you still have the snapped off section ?

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2001 5:20 pm
by johnhall
The rods are all the same and it's unlikely the neck got any shorter, so about all that could have happened is for the acorn nut/washer to have dug in a bit too much at the body end of the neck. Washers will reposition this back.

I don't know the diameter of the acorn nuts off the top of my head, but take one down to the hardware store where you can buy some that are no larger in diameter for pennies.

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2001 5:27 am
by az4stringer
Thank you Mr. Hall for your help. I am going to try this over the weekend. Just so I understand the procedure correctly, here are the steps I need to take:

1. Loosen the strings and remove the pickguard to get to the truss rod acorn nut at the body end of the neck.

2. remove the nut at the top of the truss rod and gently tap the rod into the neck to expose the acorn nut at the body end.

3. add a washer or two no larger than a penny under the acorn nut at the body end of the truss rod.

4. Reverse steps to complete to allow additional adjustability.

I really love the 4003, especially when its setup to my preferences. The only issue I have had with it is having to do what seems to be regular truss rod adjustments. I get the neck adjusted to my preference then in about three or four days I have to make another adjustment by tightening the truss rod. However, the neck does seem to be settling in some as each subsequent adjustment is less than the previous adjustment.

Is this normal for a new guitar? I live in AZ where its pretty dry. The "its a dry heat" thing Image

Thanks again Image

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2001 10:28 am
by ric12os
Tom,
I don't mean to butt in, but I think in reference to your step #3, Mr. Hall meant that the washer(s) shouldn't be larger in diameter than the acorn nut diameter (pretty small) and that you can buy some small washers in a hardware store for just "pennies", i.e., not cost very much. A washer the size of a penny may be the right thickness to use, but the diameter would be much too large. Feel free to correct me, Mr. Hall, if I'm wrong.

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2001 3:38 pm
by az4stringer
Thanks Dom for pointing out my misunderstanding Image

You are right, Mr. Hall was referencing the cost of the washers. I see that now Image