Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I have a 1985 360-12v64 FG that is approaching the neck-set threshold. The bridge has about 1/8" of adjustment left that I am about to use up! The characteristic small concave in the back is further evidence that something needs to be done. I have an excellent luthier (custom builder) close by who has proposed an alternative to removing binding, back and neck to do the reset. He proposes using glue-melting heat pads on the top and back along with inserting pin-heaters to the sides of the neck joint from the neck pickup slot. The idea is to simply melt the glue and slide the neck out. My questions are:
1. Is it feasible?
2. Can all of the glue be sufficiently softened with heat applied at the points described to remove the neck?
3. Does the finish have a higher heat resistance than the glue?
4. How difficult will it be to shim the neck correctly after the cavity has been "violated"? - I figure if we got this far, he knows how to do the re-assembly part of the woodwork!

I accept that some delicate refin will be required at the joint and where the heat was applied.
Well, whaddya think? Is this the way to go?
If not how much does the 'back removal' by a Rick specialist cost?
Thanks for a great site, guys!

If he uses silicone blankets/heating pads ...he will blister the finish .

Resetting a neck on a Les Paul is actually easier than on a Rick semi hollow body .

Steam and/or heat must be used and both cause the wood to do funny things .I will open up joints,warp wood more ,discolor the maple and twist the wood into a distorted shape.Not to mention just plain ruin the guitar .And EVERYONE of these is different .You NEVER know what you are getting into ...until you get into it !

My personal take on the job is this ...and most of the people looking at this will not like what I have to say ...

Get a new body made .You can cherry pick the wood ,it can be duplicated to the original ,you can change the bracing on an old one ,you can get a wild piece of wood and get a very cool looking guitar .

I would change the bracing pattern to help elliminate the warp factor .I do know that several things have been attempted to correct the warp factor ...but I do not know if it has been solved !I hope it has !

Hi, Mark!
Thanks for the info. My friend and his son have done some wonderful restorations for some famous people and delicate stuff on old Martins, etc...But he was reluctant to take this one on! Since I would be committed to purchasing the specialized "blankets" for the project, I may have to rescind my offer!
The previous owner had 12-56 acoustic strings on this when I bought it 4 years ago, so shame on me for falling in love! On your recommendation, I may play it 'til it dies, then consider major surgery.
...Also this fellow has had success with fingerboard removal and inserting an extreeeeemly thin shim between fingerboard and neck effectively altering the angle of attack and only slightly thickening the profile noticeably beyond the 9th or 10th fret on several other guitars...may be a possibility!
Thanks again for the valuable advice!
By the way...anybody have a set (or just treble-side tuners for a '74 360 for sale? (Grover 104's with the longer key shafts)

Just checked with my luthier and passed on your suggestions to him...he says that he has done similar scary operations successfully with few repercussions on the finish. Finish touch-ups are his strong suit, so even if the project goes south appearance-wise, I may just consider having a green-glo 360-12!
On the other hand, if it really is successful, the procedure could give a new lease on life to some great old 12's for whom owners had given up hope! I will post any progress for those interested.