1982 4001S-- dual truss rods?
Moderator: jingle_jangle
1982 4001S-- dual truss rods?
I recently purchased a used 4001S (serial no. indicates March 1982 production, and RIC rep. says records show it is a 4001S). When I took the nameplate off the headstock, to my surprise, I found two truss rod nuts. I had thought that the 1982 models, particularly the 4001S, had a single truss rod. The model checks out....so my real question is, are there any differences in this truss rod system and the later 4001V63 systems? Plus, the neck is nice and chunky, like a 4001CS or late nineties v63. Was that standard for these?
BPM
BPM
Except for some of the 1950's basses ALL Rickenbacker basses have TWO truss rods.
The system used up until the split guard 4003's was the original and then was changed to a cold rolled steel system that used only a threaded rod ,not a folded over steel rod .
While both systems may be removed (as pointed out by John Hall) there is really no reason to remove the new system for any reason other than the threads were crossthreaded some how .
The new rods are industry standard and are excellant .Too bad you can't reto fit them into the old instruments with out removing the fretboard.
The system used up until the split guard 4003's was the original and then was changed to a cold rolled steel system that used only a threaded rod ,not a folded over steel rod .
While both systems may be removed (as pointed out by John Hall) there is really no reason to remove the new system for any reason other than the threads were crossthreaded some how .
The new rods are industry standard and are excellant .Too bad you can't reto fit them into the old instruments with out removing the fretboard.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Thanks Mark. Fortunately, I have found so far that, on this 4001S, I am able to play nickle roundwounds in the same gauges (45/55/75/105) that RIC reccommends for the newer 400X models with the new rods. The intonation is great, and the action is about .023 at the sixth fret, when fretted at the 1st and 19th frets on the E string. The rods could use a bit of adjusting to lower this, but I'm still in the cautious phase with this instrument. It feels about like my CS.
However, what would it cost me to have the rods replaced with the new ones? I understand from your posting that the fretboard would be removed for this.....does that pose much risk to the fretboard, or is it a given that it would most likely need to be replaced as well, due to this process? Thanks!
Brian Murphy
However, what would it cost me to have the rods replaced with the new ones? I understand from your posting that the fretboard would be removed for this.....does that pose much risk to the fretboard, or is it a given that it would most likely need to be replaced as well, due to this process? Thanks!
Brian Murphy
Thanks Mark. Fortunately, I have found so far that, on this 4001S, I am able to play nickle roundwounds in the same gauges (45/55/75/105) that RIC reccommends for the newer 400X models with the new rods. The intonation is great, and the action is about .023 at the sixth fret, when fretted at the 1st and 19th frets on the E string. The rods could use a bit of adjusting to lower this, but I'm still in the cautious phase with this instrument. It feels about like my CS.
However, what would it cost me to have the rods replaced with the new ones? I understand from your posting that the fretboard would be removed for this.....does that pose much risk to the fretboard, or is it a given that it would most likely need to be replaced as well, due to this process? Thanks!
Brian Murphy
However, what would it cost me to have the rods replaced with the new ones? I understand from your posting that the fretboard would be removed for this.....does that pose much risk to the fretboard, or is it a given that it would most likely need to be replaced as well, due to this process? Thanks!
Brian Murphy
On an old Rick with the original rod system this is rather expensive .
I would say ...get the originals to work and leave it at that.
Removing a fretboard is a tricky job and sometimes you end up replacing it .
I am working on a 4002 bass that has a neck angle problem that was compounded by a repair job that added to the problem.
The bridge is as low as it can go and it plays like an upright.
So to fix this I have made a new fretboard ,changed the angle of the board so that it is lower at the nut than usual,high at the end than usual and then milled off the original fretboard ,glue on the new one ,mill binding slots on the sides,refret,dot and cut a new nut .
Sound easy doesn't it?
I would say ...get the originals to work and leave it at that.
Removing a fretboard is a tricky job and sometimes you end up replacing it .
I am working on a 4002 bass that has a neck angle problem that was compounded by a repair job that added to the problem.
The bridge is as low as it can go and it plays like an upright.
So to fix this I have made a new fretboard ,changed the angle of the board so that it is lower at the nut than usual,high at the end than usual and then milled off the original fretboard ,glue on the new one ,mill binding slots on the sides,refret,dot and cut a new nut .
Sound easy doesn't it?
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Wow........you're a braver man than I! I'll take your advice to heart, given that the bass is quite playable as is, and that I prefer playing the nickle wound 45/55/75/105's over standard Swing Bass set. Rotosounds were responsible (I'll take some of the blame too!) for eating my 1980 Ibanez Musician bass's frets, along with messing up its intonation quite severely.
Thanks for the info!
Brian Murphy
Thanks for the info!
Brian Murphy