Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

The rule maybe be relaxed, but it is still stated on the official page that:

"The warranty is void if, upon inspection by RIC factory personnel, the defect is determined to be the result of damage due to misuse, exposure to environmental extremes, modification, or the use of replacement parts ...

Recently I was looking at a used Rick 360/12 FG, and the salesman told me he would never buy a Rickenbacker. He said that if you change the string gauge from the original factory strings, it would void the warranty. Has anyone heard of anything like that here?

While I really like the look of some of the 660/12's I hate to give up on this MG 330/12. It took quite a while to find one that had the neck depth that I liked. What puzzles me is that with all the 12 string Ricks I got to play, I never noticed the problem. Almost as soon as I bought this one, I ...

You are right, I meant E and G strings.

Is there a way I can be sure I have the wider spaced nut?

If I could get my hands on a 660/12 it would be great. They just don't seem to show up around here (central Ohio). OTOH this is a fine guitar.

When I began looking at Rick 12 strings I first noticed that there were differences in the thickness of the necks over the years. From what I had heard up until then, the narrowness of the fretboard was a problem for some, but not for me. The MG 330/12 I have now has the thin neck that suites me ...

If anyone is interested, I did return the 2005 model, and bought a 2008 that has a thinner neck as Jason suggested. The vintage reissue and C models that I found on Ebay that the sellers measured for me were the thicker sizes, if we are measuring the same way. They are supposed to be thinner, but ...

Jason,

I never understood the reasoning for removing all the strings on any guitar for restringing only. I always started at the low E string, but I will try your system if you think it helps in working with the slotted headstock. Today will be my first RIC 12 restringing.

Dan

I have a '14 620/6. The neck profile is what I would describe as a slim to medium D shape...it's not what I would describe as particularly chunky; slim enough to get around on with ease but with just enough girth to comfortably support my old hand and keep it from cramping. Just to note: I have ...

In my quest to find a 12 string like the first Rick I played on, I am on a definite learning curve. I first saw a 1996 330/12 that felt very comfortable in my hand. I wish I had measured it. Since then I learned that neck thickness varies over the years and with different models. But when I inquire ...

Well I returned the 12 string yesterday. Nice that GC was no problem. Now to find the slim neck and model I am looking for. The official forum said that the C series and V series were supposed to have thin neck profiles. Are they any experiences with the various models? I might be interested in a ...

Would the thickness of the neck on this model vary over the years like the 360/330? I am looking for the standard narrow neck that is not ask thick and round as the current models. I have read that the v series are supposed to have the thinner necks of the earlier models. But I was wondering if some ...

From the experience I had with the 1996 330/12, I am thinking that the necks from the eighties to mid/late nineties might be better for me than the extra thin ones of the sixties and seventies.

I've got a '98 330/12VP in the classifieds that I just now bumped to the top, if you care to have a ...

what about the solid body 12 strings? I personally think most of them look cool. However I have not had one in my hands or heard the sound other than on recordings.
Get a 660, the neck width is ideal for 12 strings. 8)

What about the thickness of the 660/12 and 620/12? Are they similar to the ...

what about the solid body 12 strings? I personally think most of them look cool. However I have not had one in my hands or heard the sound other than on recordings.

IIRC, it had to do with the beginning of CNC machine use, which I think could be as early as '92. I'd still recommend the '79, or a mid to late 80's if you can find one and just have to have the sharp horn shape of a 330.

Jason, are you saying that the horns are sharper on the 80's vs the 90's ...