I have a 1966 340 that I'm having trouble keeping in tune. It tends to go 'sour". My local guitar guy has set it up twice and I'm thinking maybe something is screwy that he doesn't know about (I told him about the early truss rod rig-a-ma-roll). He's great, but face it; how many 1960's Ricks come through for repairs.
My guitar's bridge has what looks like (aprox.) 1/4 inch split nuts on the front that the adjusting screws go into. There are no springs on the screws. I noticed that some of the nuts are loose.
Do you loosen the nuts, set the intonation and then tighten the nuts down? Should I "toothpick" some Lock-Tite on the threads going into the nut? Did it come with springs? Thanks in advance for any help.
Best, Dave in Va.
1966 340 bridge question
Moderator: jingle_jangle
The old bridge is a simple thing to adjust ,if the chassis /plate is indeed flat across the bottom of it .
Yes ...you loosen the locking nuts ,make your adjustments ,then tighten them.
DO NOT LOCK TITE these old bridges ever !
These did not come with springs nor are springs necessary on these old bridges.
Check placement ,these old ones are famous for being too close to the neck .See if there is a black grease pencil line under the bridge mounting plate .THat line is -nut to the 12th fret doubled.It does not have added length for any compensation ...you need to add 5/32" to the length to make it "correct".
Yes ...you loosen the locking nuts ,make your adjustments ,then tighten them.
DO NOT LOCK TITE these old bridges ever !
These did not come with springs nor are springs necessary on these old bridges.
Check placement ,these old ones are famous for being too close to the neck .See if there is a black grease pencil line under the bridge mounting plate .THat line is -nut to the 12th fret doubled.It does not have added length for any compensation ...you need to add 5/32" to the length to make it "correct".
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!