is this what's meant by checking?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4713&item=7310119755&rd=1
my white 80 looks 10 times better than that. no cracks in the finish at all.
Checking?
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
I forget how it works but you can tell what happened to the instrument by the way the cracks run. If the instrument was cooled quickly the cracks run one way. If it was warmed too quickly the cracks go the other way. It would guess that cracks across the grain would be from quick warming and the wood elongating before the finish was soft enough to allow it. Cracks along the grain would be from the finish shrinking before the wood during rapid cooling. This bass was warmed too quickly, if my logic holds. -could be wrong.
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rickenbrother
- RRF Moderator
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I think in most cases, finish checking occurs from instruments warming too quick. It probably happens most when players show up at a studio for band practice on a cold winter night and take the instruments out of the cases before they can slowly warm up in them.
JETGLO should officially be renamed JETGLO ROCKS! 
Indeed!
On the other hand, popping up the case in a cool, air-conned room right after the instrument is brought in from a hot atmosphere is a taboo too. Here in my country, the outside temperature can get to be over 90 degree Fahrenheit in the summertime. My studio's temperature is constantly maintained at 70 degree F. Whenever novice players come in to record and want to open the cases immediately, I advise them to wait for at least 30 minutes, have coffed or tea, and chill out during that time.
On a side note, an instrument's neck relief, action and intonation can change considerably when it's in a room that's cooler or hotter than its usual environment. Fine-tuning is recommended before anything is committed to tape or harddisk.
On the other hand, popping up the case in a cool, air-conned room right after the instrument is brought in from a hot atmosphere is a taboo too. Here in my country, the outside temperature can get to be over 90 degree Fahrenheit in the summertime. My studio's temperature is constantly maintained at 70 degree F. Whenever novice players come in to record and want to open the cases immediately, I advise them to wait for at least 30 minutes, have coffed or tea, and chill out during that time.
On a side note, an instrument's neck relief, action and intonation can change considerably when it's in a room that's cooler or hotter than its usual environment. Fine-tuning is recommended before anything is committed to tape or harddisk.
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rickaddict
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 7:46 am
Ah yes...the CME. I was surprised to find an $1199.00 price tag on this one on my last visit.
What I want to know is--Why does this belong in the ad: (?)
"This P Bass sports split-coil pick-ups, and its contoured body is well-balanced with a great feel. Its tone is deep and punchy. For a Precision Bass player this could become an essential weapon in the arsenal."
What I want to know is--Why does this belong in the ad: (?)
"This P Bass sports split-coil pick-ups, and its contoured body is well-balanced with a great feel. Its tone is deep and punchy. For a Precision Bass player this could become an essential weapon in the arsenal."
Play what you love, love what you play!
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rickaddict
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 7:46 am
Somehow, my computer at work is not able to bring up the photos on this auction. If this is the same one I saw when I was there, that neck split was even more ugly than the above photo. The other side and/or back view would show this. I like the CME...but they seem to be of the belief that the more beat an instrument is, the more it is worth.
Play what you love, love what you play!
I'd say $750 tops is high. That price leaves very little leeway for repair costs, bringing the price up to well over its worth.
The conditions and care this bass were exposed to leave a lot to be desired. In all honesty, I wouldn't take it if it were offered to me for $500.
The conditions and care this bass were exposed to leave a lot to be desired. In all honesty, I wouldn't take it if it were offered to me for $500.
Andrew
'05 4001C64, Fireglo
'03 4003, Jetglo
'05 4001C64, Fireglo
'03 4003, Jetglo
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rickaddict
- Senior Member
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Its sad how many of these guitars are ruined by clueless guitar techs. I'm REALLY hesitant to let anybody touch my Ricks.
Learn how to do it yourself, boys and girls. The guy that reads up on it and does it gently and carefully for the first time will do better than the clueless know-it-all that starts crankin' the wrench at the shop.
And the owners of these guitars probably were fed some BS from the incompetent guitar techs about Ricks having delicate, flimsy necks or old wood being brittle or something.
How's that for a rant? Did I sound convincing? Both guitars were probably ruined by their owners!
Learn how to do it yourself, boys and girls. The guy that reads up on it and does it gently and carefully for the first time will do better than the clueless know-it-all that starts crankin' the wrench at the shop.
And the owners of these guitars probably were fed some BS from the incompetent guitar techs about Ricks having delicate, flimsy necks or old wood being brittle or something.
How's that for a rant? Did I sound convincing? Both guitars were probably ruined by their owners!
Play what you love, love what you play!
Very well said, and certainly not a rant, Jeff.
In my very humble opinion, knowing how to set up one's instruments is basic requirement for being a player. It's similar to being responsible and trying to understand your kids' problems and help them out.
Some guitars and basses are more affected by changes of atmospheric humidity and temperature, and their setups should be fine-tuned every few months. With all due respect, paying someone to set up (neck relief, string height, intonation and pickup heights) a RIC for $30~100 a time is "being too rich", IMHO. Why not learn to set them up by ourselves and save the money to buy more Ricks? We've all seen popped fingerboards caused to lots of 4001 basses by clueless luthiers because they didn't know any better than the owners themselves about the correct ways to adjust the old 4001 truss rods. It's safer for the owners to learn to adjust them correctly. Also, only the owners themselves know how straight a neck and how high the string action they like. A luthier/tech's "by the book" setup might not suit the owner's playing style anyway.
In my very humble opinion, knowing how to set up one's instruments is basic requirement for being a player. It's similar to being responsible and trying to understand your kids' problems and help them out.
Some guitars and basses are more affected by changes of atmospheric humidity and temperature, and their setups should be fine-tuned every few months. With all due respect, paying someone to set up (neck relief, string height, intonation and pickup heights) a RIC for $30~100 a time is "being too rich", IMHO. Why not learn to set them up by ourselves and save the money to buy more Ricks? We've all seen popped fingerboards caused to lots of 4001 basses by clueless luthiers because they didn't know any better than the owners themselves about the correct ways to adjust the old 4001 truss rods. It's safer for the owners to learn to adjust them correctly. Also, only the owners themselves know how straight a neck and how high the string action they like. A luthier/tech's "by the book" setup might not suit the owner's playing style anyway.
Because so many techs just don't know, every Rickenbacker owner should know how to do neck adjustments. I friend of mine is an excellent tech and builder. He has been at it for more than 25 years but never learned the correct way to do an old style Rick rod setup. I showed him the technique last week and he was surprised to learn that the rods are not intended to move the neck but rather to hold it in place.