Mark,
I know you have gone over this over and over, but specifically because you are familiar with my guitar, how difficult would it be to go from RIC strings to Pyramid flats. I would like to try them, but not if it is a huge hassle. Also, on RM's video, he states his preference to tuning to Eb. Without offending Roger, is this necessary, or recommended, or just player preference?
Pyramid Strings???
Moderator: jingle_jangle
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anonymous
I believe that Roger tunes to E flat for two reasons ;
1- age .... as you get older your voice drops ...he just does not need to strain to get the high note vocally when tuned to E flat .
2- the G octave lasts a lot longer .As that string is the highest tension on a 12 string ,it has the tendency to break before any other strings.
There is one problem with what Roger is doing however and he has an open invitation from me to have this corrected for FREE from me (he is the world ambassador for the 12 string guitar after all!) and that is ....when you tune down to E flat the compensation at the bridge changes ...meaning you have to pull the saddles even FARTHER away from the neck that when tuned to A 440hz !
Given the fact that the center of his bridge is most likely centered at the measurement -edge of nut the the 12 fret doubled ,this places his bridge still out of place and compounded by his lower pitch ...there is NO way for him to be in tune up the neck .Even his suggestion of removing the springs and pulling the Low E standard all the way to the chassis is not enough !
So again ...if you are lurking Roger ,email me and the next time you are in the Seattle area ,lets fix this ! I'll even bring you new Pyramid strings! How can you lose?
1- age .... as you get older your voice drops ...he just does not need to strain to get the high note vocally when tuned to E flat .
2- the G octave lasts a lot longer .As that string is the highest tension on a 12 string ,it has the tendency to break before any other strings.
There is one problem with what Roger is doing however and he has an open invitation from me to have this corrected for FREE from me (he is the world ambassador for the 12 string guitar after all!) and that is ....when you tune down to E flat the compensation at the bridge changes ...meaning you have to pull the saddles even FARTHER away from the neck that when tuned to A 440hz !
Given the fact that the center of his bridge is most likely centered at the measurement -edge of nut the the 12 fret doubled ,this places his bridge still out of place and compounded by his lower pitch ...there is NO way for him to be in tune up the neck .Even his suggestion of removing the springs and pulling the Low E standard all the way to the chassis is not enough !
So again ...if you are lurking Roger ,email me and the next time you are in the Seattle area ,lets fix this ! I'll even bring you new Pyramid strings! How can you lose?
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anonymous
Jon , as far as switching between the two kinds of strings ...you should not have any real trouble .
I have found that because the Rick strings are made using CNC tooling / machining (as are D'Addario,S.I.T. ,GHS and several other ) and the supplier of the wire to these makers does as well, there is a significant consistency to them .Meaning .... a wound .018 is going to be wrapped tight along it's entire length every time .
The so call hand wound ones ,are inconsistent in that capacity.
The hand made ones do feel great and they are smoother and more like the old Rick strings .....but I have had to reintonate bridges from pack to pack because of this .
With the CNC made strings , I check intonation every time ... but have not had to readjust .THAT says a lot to me .
As a side note (example ) of E flat tuning ,another reason for this was used by POCO from it's first LP/CD on, and that was done so the guys singing did not strain there voices as much ,but also to keep Rusty Young's steel from snapping strings ! With all the neck bending and pedal stomping that looney does .... he needed to not have the hassle of broken strings ...this was way more professional for the bands performance .
Both in the studio and live they tuned to E flat .
SRV did this for an other reason but that can be discussed later or over at the Fender discussion group .
I have found that because the Rick strings are made using CNC tooling / machining (as are D'Addario,S.I.T. ,GHS and several other ) and the supplier of the wire to these makers does as well, there is a significant consistency to them .Meaning .... a wound .018 is going to be wrapped tight along it's entire length every time .
The so call hand wound ones ,are inconsistent in that capacity.
The hand made ones do feel great and they are smoother and more like the old Rick strings .....but I have had to reintonate bridges from pack to pack because of this .
With the CNC made strings , I check intonation every time ... but have not had to readjust .THAT says a lot to me .
As a side note (example ) of E flat tuning ,another reason for this was used by POCO from it's first LP/CD on, and that was done so the guys singing did not strain there voices as much ,but also to keep Rusty Young's steel from snapping strings ! With all the neck bending and pedal stomping that looney does .... he needed to not have the hassle of broken strings ...this was way more professional for the bands performance .
Both in the studio and live they tuned to E flat .
SRV did this for an other reason but that can be discussed later or over at the Fender discussion group .
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anonymous
One more thing that struck me as odd, Roger noted that on his model Rickenbacker; with onboard compressor; he recommends changing the battery before each performance or concert. That sounds very professional, but wouldn't the screw holes start to strip with repeated use? I thought they were just wood screws put into bare wood.
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anonymous
Yes they are just scfrewed into the wood .
There are brass inserts that can be installed into the wood and as the screws that are used on a Rick guard are ;
3 # 6 sheet metal screws (for the sharkfin)
and
1 #4 sheet metal screw to hold the point of the guard near the "5th knob"
These could all be replaced with the same headed screws but with 6/32 or 4/40 threads ,then he would not have strippout trouble .
Hey Roger .....I could do this for you too!!!!
but that will cost money sorry .
There are brass inserts that can be installed into the wood and as the screws that are used on a Rick guard are ;
3 # 6 sheet metal screws (for the sharkfin)
and
1 #4 sheet metal screw to hold the point of the guard near the "5th knob"
These could all be replaced with the same headed screws but with 6/32 or 4/40 threads ,then he would not have strippout trouble .
Hey Roger .....I could do this for you too!!!!
but that will cost money sorry .
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anonymous
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anonymous
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anonymous
I use a plug cutter to make non end grain plugs.These are stronger and won't tear apart like a dowel would .
There are NO plug cutters the size that is used for these screws ....however there is a tool that drills a hole and counter sinks at the same time .
I remove the bit from these tools and resharpen them and use it as a plug cutter .
This works perfect !
Then using a VIX bit ,I lay the guard back down and redrill the holes .A VIX bit is a self centering device ,something we NEVER had in my day at the factory ! It makes life way easier and more consistant.
With a guitar that does not need constant guard removal ,there is little reason to buy the inserts ,I would just plug and redrill .
There is a quick roadie fix, of thick cyanoacrylate glue and a tooth pick ,but I never feel like I have done a proper job doing that ...it does get you by ...but for how long?
There are NO plug cutters the size that is used for these screws ....however there is a tool that drills a hole and counter sinks at the same time .
I remove the bit from these tools and resharpen them and use it as a plug cutter .
This works perfect !
Then using a VIX bit ,I lay the guard back down and redrill the holes .A VIX bit is a self centering device ,something we NEVER had in my day at the factory ! It makes life way easier and more consistant.
With a guitar that does not need constant guard removal ,there is little reason to buy the inserts ,I would just plug and redrill .
There is a quick roadie fix, of thick cyanoacrylate glue and a tooth pick ,but I never feel like I have done a proper job doing that ...it does get you by ...but for how long?
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pablo_mago