Building A Neck Thru Body Guitar

jonpaul · Post by **jonpaul** » Thu Jul 07, 2005 1:36 pm

Dale,
As some British band sang once, "It's Getting Better All the Time". That guitar is going to be simply fantastic when you are completed with it. Nothing but raves from here on the East Coast, truly a work of art.

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Thu Jul 07, 2005 6:33 pm

Just remember: And In The End... The Love You Take.. Is Equal To The Love You Make! ... This project is doing what I hoped it would do... Giving any and all of those who often wondered, what goes into building a guitar. More that just a little insight, a step by step view on building a solid body guitar. I chose to build a Rickenbacker type neck thru body guitar, for many reasons: My heritage comes from there and this is a very precise type of instrument to build. Not your average bolt on neck fender bender. So, I'm only 1/2 way done with this guitar. The finish and assembly are the next steps. I want to thank everyone for all the positive feedback and comments, and a special thanks to John and Rickenbacker for making this possible. LY...DL

jbstevo · Post by **jbstevo** » Fri Jul 08, 2005 2:19 am

Hey
Thanks Peter and Howard. This is a great site.
Cheers
John

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 4:03 pm

Rolling right along with todays progress:
1st is the truss rod before it is pushed into the slot. Using a 1/4 inch nut driver over the threaded part, it gets pushed in and then I tighten the nut to check it's function. Using a straight edge, check the rod when it is relaxed and then again when it is tightened. It should put a convex bow in the neck and make it nice and stiff. This one works fine. Back off the nut to where it has a small amount of tension on the rod, now using 400 grit sand paper on a hard straight block, level the tops of the frets so that there are no high spots. It doesn't take much, so keep checking with your straight edge till they are all level. Using the Orbital sander with 320 paper for the final sanding of the top and back, all else gets sanded by hand or with 320 on small sanding blocks. Use a bright back light to show any flaws or cross grain marks. These need to be addressed before the finish coats are applied or you won't be happy with your finished guitar. Now the 1st C.V. sealer coat is applied to the whole instrument. It is sprayed on with a gravity fed gun at 30 lbs. air pressure. I am using Sherwin Williams Catalized conversion varnish at a 3 percent mixed ratio. Those inlays will only look better when the final clear coats are applied. Back of the guitar with 1 coat of sealer. After this dries for about 2 hors it can be flat sanded with 320 grit paper and checked for any flaws. 1 more coat of sealer will be applied before the colors are applied. It will also be sanded with 320 paper.
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0349.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0350.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0351.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0353.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0354.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0356.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0357.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0359.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0360.jpg
Happy Saturday DL

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 5:47 pm

I just finished sanding the 1st sealer coat and it's driving me crazy. To many lacquer fumes getting to my 2 brain cells. please see photo
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0363.jpg

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 9:22 pm

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 9:26 pm

O.K. Look at the pictures and tell me, should I leave it Natural Mapleglo or cover up all that beautiful wood? Man Oh Man those C.P.'s look better with every coat of C.V. Kim Novak ain't got nothin' on this one baby. To quote a paraphrase by G.H. I'm having a tough time making a decision: Autmnglo or Mapleglo. Help me out here so I can finish this BABY!
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0375.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0374.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0372.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0371.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0370.jpg http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0369.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0368.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0367.jpg

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 9:42 pm

Someone asked what were those 2 black Ricks off to the side. They are 2 Black Lennon 325's being restored to original finish. 1 is a 1958 and the other is a 1967. Both are being refinished in Jetglo. The 58 is getting a Black Nitro Finish and the 67 is being refinished in black with C.V. as the top coats.

harvey49 · Post by **harvey49** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 11:10 pm

It's your project Dale - if you're leaning to Mapleglo, then do it!!!!!!

Having said that I still think Autumnglo would be nice

admin · Post by **admin** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 11:52 pm

This is gorgeous Dale but, seeing as you asked, I would push on with the Autumnglo.

jbstevo · Post by **jbstevo** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 1:02 am

Dale
IMHO
Autumnglo will look sensational with those pickups. Dale andy thoughts on bridge/tailpiece options? By the way when I originally saw the pickups you are using they looked like those made by guitar fetish. (do an ebay search for dearmond and it will lead you to them) or click on this link. they at one stage were making two toaster top style pickups but they seem to have dissapeared a while ago.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=22670&item=7334877453&rd=1&ssPageName=WD2V

ken_j · Post by **ken_j** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 2:37 am

I have always been a fan of Mapleglo, but I still think Autumnglo would give it that vintage vibe.

bill_yantz · Post by **bill_yantz** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 3:29 am

Dale, I am speechless. That guitar already is as beautiful as they come and the neck is sensational. I've said it before but, the rosewood you picked is a perfect contrast with the CP inlays. I can't imagine it getting any better. The other thing that's jumping out at me now, is the very cool contrast between the darker (Mapleglo) body against the lighter neck; then it looks like the same wood as used in the denter of the neck as in the body. That look, going the full length of the guitar is awesome and really pops out with the first coats of sealer. The darker wood darkened up more while the lighter neck (not fretboard) stayed about the same. That has made an incredible contrast and a great case for Mapleglo. But..........., I've got to agree with the previous posts, go with Autumnglo. The Autumnglo, IMO, will be better suited and will allow the body to balance the stunning neck with the most beautiful CP inlays I have ever seen. As a Mapleglo, the neck will be dominant; as a Autmnglo, the whole guitar will be dominant. Just my opinion.

jps · Post by **jps** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 4:31 am

Here is another vote for Autumnglo. As nice as the wood is, the grain is not very figured (except for the neck, gorgeous!) so the Autumnglo finish would bring out the qualities of the rest of the instrument better, I think the checker binding will pop out more.

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 5:19 am

Another decision to make. Autumnglo it will be. As for tail piece and bridge, I make those from aluminum. Once they are buffed to a nice luster, they look like nickel plated parts. I was considering a Bigsby, but decided not to use it.
I hope to put some color on the guitar today.