Have I just bought a real 4001?

flashbackphil · Post by **flashbackphil** » Tue May 07, 2002 10:47 am

You guys are scaring me with all this talk about Rick copies. I have my suspicions about a 4001 I've just bought (this is my first Rick, BTW, so I am a total beginner as far as Ricks are concerned). I'd be very grateful if anyone could help me to confirm that I have a real Rick. What do I look for? The Rick headstock flash looks OK - 'model 4001, made in the USA' One of the pots is numbered 3279 137-7147 and other three have similar number layout, the switch is not original and the other yellow cylinder things in there (what are they called?) are Aerovox V146XR-5 .047 with other text as well. The treble pickup has 2024.14 in big red numbers and three red triangles on the back and the neck pickup, which is very close to the neck, is a toaster and has no text at all. The machine heads are rectangular Grovers. The jack plate carries the serial number LG 707, but does not have Rickosound or Standard stamped on it and looks extremely clean. The binding is checkered, the bridge has no text on it anywhere and I can't think of anything else to tell you. You all must be bored by now! Oh the case is shaped, not rectangular!
I'd love to hear from you experts - I'd be extremely grateful for any help.
Thanks very much in anticipation.
Phil

tim4003 · Post by **tim4003** » Tue May 07, 2002 12:31 pm

Sounds likes the real deal!TheLG on your jack plate means it was made in Dec.(L)of '67(G).The words STANDARD and RICK-O-SOUND are painted on my 4003,so thay have probably just worn off.Welcome to the wonderful world of RICKENBACKER!!!

tim4003 · Post by **tim4003** » Tue May 07, 2002 12:38 pm

P.S. The yellow cylinders are called capacitors.

bassman · Post by **bassman** » Tue May 07, 2002 1:11 pm

Here are a few things to look for on your bass;
Does the tailpiece have a gap in the middle of it between the A and D strings running vertical? Do the inlay markers stretch from outside edge to outside edge on both sides of the neck?
Are there 2 truss rods in the neck?
I am going to assume that the neck is a through the body and not bolt-on or neck set style.
So far your description sounds good. The yellow cylinder things are the capacitors. You should have two .047 and one .0047 wired in there. You can check the wiring diagrams on the Rickenbacker.com site to confirm the components wired in to the bass.
The case definately is not original.
Good luck with your bass,

ken_james · Post by **ken_james** » Tue May 07, 2002 4:11 pm

LG 707 dates to 1972...

leftybass · Post by **leftybass** » Wed May 08, 2002 2:52 am

Phil: If you can, post a pic of your bass...

bassman · Post by **bassman** » Wed May 08, 2002 5:25 am

I've seen too may knock-off clone Ric's with original Ricenbacker parts on them. Including the input jack plate with the serial number stamped on it. Unfortunately you can't always go by what the ser# says. Especially if it's a removable part like the serial number plate is.
The way to tell for sure is as John suggested for you to post a picture or two for us to see.
If you can't post them here, then perhaps you could post them somewhere else and place a link to them here.

headbanger · Post by **headbanger** » Wed May 08, 2002 6:56 am

Anyone ever seen a copy with check binding?

ken_james · Post by **ken_james** » Wed May 08, 2002 8:13 am

I've seen an ibanez with checkbinding,as well as bolt-neck electra's. The original source of the binding was japan I think.

flashbackphil · Post by **flashbackphil** » Wed May 08, 2002 8:26 am

Thanks guys! You're really working well on my behalf. I'll try to get hold of a digital camera so that I can take some pictures.
BTW, in response to some of your very kind emails, there are two truss rods with very long nuts on the ends (about 3/8" I think). The finger board is a very nice red colour. I suppose that means it's rosewood, and the inlays are wide and run all the way across. The routing under the scratch plate is almost like an amateur job! It was obviously made by a series of joined up drill holes. There are also two holes in the pickguard and the body straddling the routing, where a finger rest would have been. It appears that there has been a lot of work done on this guitar. Body stripped, new frets etc.
Thanks again, I appreciate your help.

markthemd · Post by **markthemd** » Wed May 08, 2002 11:25 am

Forget the photos..... you have discribed that era Rick perfectly.

ken_james · Post by **ken_james** » Wed May 08, 2002 12:20 pm

As Mark said, the drill holes pretty much just solved the problem, you have a real '72 Ric in your hands, enjoy it.

flashbackphil · Post by **flashbackphil** » Wed May 08, 2002 12:32 pm

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate the help you've all given me very much indeed. I'm happy now. I'll sleep well tonight!

leftybass · Post by **leftybass** » Thu May 09, 2002 7:21 am

Phil, one more question: Is there any evidence of the original finish in the body caivity?? Any idea as to what color it was when new??

flashbackphil · Post by **flashbackphil** » Thu May 09, 2002 12:31 pm

John, thanks for your continuing interest. My bass is mapleglow. As I said in a earlier post, the finish has been stripped. There is absolutely no evidence or reason to believe that it was ever anything other than mapleglow - I've looked very carefully and there's no other colour finish anywhere.