Help! I just put on chromes and the A buzzes!

charlyg · Post by **charlyg** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:02 pm

I'm not sure what to do. I had DR HiBeam meds on and I switched to chromes. The A is buzzing all over the place. I don't understand the fwd/back adj of the bridge. Is that the correct adjustment, or should I just raise the whole bridge? The strings seem MUCH fatter so maybe the slot is too narrow. I just don't know. I'm gonna hold off putting the other two on til I hear from someone. I need the bass in the morning!

charlyg · Post by **charlyg** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:12 pm

Even tho they seem fatter, they are the same size

revolver323 · Post by **revolver323** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:15 pm

Forward-backward is for intonation only. If it's just the A, you can raise the saddle -- at least I think so, but I can't recall if the Rick saddles are height adjustable. It's possible that even though the strings are the same guage, they are different tension. If the A has less tension, it will buzz. Did the neck move at all?

charlyg · Post by **charlyg** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:18 pm

It shouldn't have I only did one string at at ime..

charlyg · Post by **charlyg** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:20 pm

The saddles aren't height adjustable, just the whole bridge. That seems to be the easiest, but I think Jeffrey is an expert at switching to flats!

mikeylc · Post by **mikeylc** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:26 pm

The back and forth adjustment is for intonation. If the strings a fatter, assuming larger guage that what you have before and the nut slots are too small then the action should be higher. I assume you mean fret buzz? If thats the case then there could be a difference in tension. If you are bent on getting the chromes on then string it up, tune it and start adjusting from there. If you do have larger guage strings then chances are you'll have to raise the bridge. Do that by adjustin the two allen head screws on each side of the bridge. That should stop the buzzing, but you may need to adjust the neck as well. Good luck

revolver323 · Post by **revolver323** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:27 pm

Maybe if you put all four on, the buzzing will go away. I'd do that just normally anyway so that all string tension is the same. Otherwise, tweak the bridge up on the bass side a bit till the buzz stops. If the notch in the saddle is too small, that would raise the string, which would tend away from buzz. Is it buzzing high or low on the neck? Could it be a nut problem (too big a slot would lower the string)?

admin · Post by **admin** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:30 pm

Charley: It is possible, from your description, that the strings you are putting on the instrument may be exerting less tension on the neck and so the A is being pulled against the fretboard.

I would put all the strings on that you want to have on your instrument and go from there. You may need a truss-rod adjustment but put on your new strings and tune them to pitch. Then you can see what you are dealing with.

rictified · Post by **rictified** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:30 pm

Sounds like the chromes have less tension than the DR's and your neck has straightened out more than it was. I'd put on the whole set and then set up the bass including the truss rods, bridge height and intonation. The slot on the bridge doesn't matter that much, they will fit just about any string, sometimes the nut needs to be widened a little bit, but if they are the same gauge the point is moot and bigger strings would make it ride on top of the nut and shouldn't cause fret buzz just hard play if that's what you're getting anyway. Don't be afraid of it, just put them all on and check to see if your neck is a tiny bit concave in the middle with both ends fretted like it should be. Should be maybe 1 mm of air at the middle under the string with both ends of it fretted. If the necks OK raise the bridge until it plays like you like it, then intonate it etc. Sometimes you need to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. Usually when you change string brands you are going to have to do a set up.

charlyg · Post by **charlyg** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:32 pm

If it's a nut problem, the nut is me. I'll string it up, tune it up, and plug it in. Maybe I'm just paranoid. I will tell you this. I played flatwounds in the seventies and forgot. As soon as I felt the strings getting them out of the package, it all came flooding back! I picked up the bass again in about '90 and all of this time, I thought SS amps were too bright. It's the roundwounds maybe!

revolver323 · Post by **revolver323** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:34 pm

Flats have their charm. If you're looking for Motown kinda thump, that's the secret. I haven't used flats since 1971.

rictified · Post by **rictified** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:35 pm

I'm not touching your last two statements Charlie, could get me in trouble, hahah!

charlyg · Post by **charlyg** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:38 pm

I had a Fender P with flats and an EBO with those wrapped thingies, I'm not sure what the coating was but it is back now.. A Sunn 100 watt tube amp into a Plush 2x15 tuck and roll cab! I was a Rock n'Roller, but my sound was ROUND!

charlyg · Post by **charlyg** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:40 pm

Even tho I used Flats!

revolver323 · Post by **revolver323** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:45 pm

I used LaBella flats -- nasty heavy ones. After I heard "The Yes Album," it was Swing Bass for 15 years. I stopped playing for almost 20 years and discovered I no longer liked Rotos. These days I use Lakland nickel rounds (made by GHS) on my Lakland 55-94. The stainless have too much zing for me, flats not enough, although I've heard good things about Thomastik Infeld flats. A Plush cab! I had the old rolled & pleated blue sparkle Kustom 2x15 back in 1968.