Is this worth it?

General Rickenbacker discussion

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rob
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Is this worth it?

Post by rob »

rob
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Post by rob »

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sir_andrew_of_left_coast
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Post by sir_andrew_of_left_coast »

Ouch!

I don't even think you could use it for a "wall hanger."
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corey

Post by corey »

"this is a 67 rickenbacker 330 with all original parts except it has no neck, or i.d plate,pots,selector switch...."

That rambling "sentence" alone would make me close my browser and avoid ebay for a little while...
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rkbsound
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Post by rkbsound »

I don't think those pick ups are original.
rick12dr
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Post by rick12dr »

Looks like hi gain PUS. If I had more time on my hands, I'd offer him $50 for it; I can't make a body for that cheap! Plus the bridge and knobs.
I'd turn it into a doublebound 6 or 12, with a few
more twists and turns.....Good for a project, though[Larry Davis, are you catching this one???]
rob
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Post by rob »

I originally thought that this might be a good project, but something tells me it's probably a fake. I don't believe that the paint job is a Ric color scheme, or someone painted over it, most likely. Yeah, I think I'll pass on this one.
That's why I'm glad this forum is around. If I have any "I Don't Knows" about anything, I'll discuss it here first.
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admin
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Post by admin »

I am always suspicious of instruments without a jackplate. Not that a jackplate is a guarantee of an original, but the absence of the same raises many questions for me.
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm

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rick12dr
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Post by rick12dr »

And you are saying your time to go Find the wood to do it isn't worth something?
And, once the wood is found, to do it correctly, if you don't already have the shop equipment, you need to take the wood to a cabinet shop to have it thickness sanded, which is an additional cost.
$50 is Cheap, folks. Do the math.If all you want is a bridge and tailpiece, they Alone will cost you more than $50, new Or[especially] used.
rick12dr
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Post by rick12dr »

there's the unknown of how the neck joint was constructed or if there are any breaks at the joint.
It doesn't seem like a bolt on because the back shows no area for a neck plate. I don't recall Rickenbacker using the maple/walnut/maple laminating on the body, so my guess is the neck broke off at the joint. It seems more than just a simple dovetail cut and glue job.
A little too much challenge for me.

Assuming this Is a Real Rick body, the method of joining the neck to the body is mortise and tenon; there is around 3 1/4" length of the neck that slides into the body pocket.I have personally removed the broken necks out of a handful of Rick 300 series guitars before, and after I did the first one, I am no longer intimidated by it at all.Pretty easy, once you make a couple simple jigs to assist in getting the old neck stump out cleanly.Compared to, say, an early 60s Gibson SG, the Rick semihollow has a Very solid neck/body joint.
dompisco
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Post by dompisco »

That 330 would be just too much effort to make function for my time. Yet, as far as the 481 I'm trying to get that one. I can build a 481 body from a tracing and I have some extra Rick hardware. Slanted frets and everything It'll be a fun project. It's one of those odd instruments that always appealed to me. Heck I should go all the way and make a 481 lightshow and cover all the bases.
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Post by dompisco »

...another instrument one I will never have...boo hoo. Edged out by $1 I can't even play the ebay game like a master anymore. Sadness!
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