325V59 buying advice

rickatick · Post by **rickatick** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 4:37 am

Hello to everyone on the forum!
I'm planning to buy a v59 but there are some problems; It's in Mapleglo and I want the Jetglo. It's literal a difference between night and day. So, I was thinking to buy it and let it professionaly paint it over in Jetglo because the problem is that the model is very hard to get over here in The Netherlands and the C58 is a tremendous lot more expensive. If there was not that big $ gap I bought the C58 and put the Bigsby on... The V59 is gonna costs me 1650 euro's a C58 1500 euro's MORE! Am I nuts or am I doing the right thing? I hope that some of the pro's and lovers over here can advice me with this importend unimportend problem.
Thanks,
Ronald

octagon · Post by **octagon** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 5:03 am

Thats how John Lennon did it.Seriously,the only thing to consider is that it may have some effect on the resale value if you want to sell it in the future but otherwise there is nothing wrong with repainting the V59.Ask Paul on this forum.He is repainting on right now!

admin · Post by **admin** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 5:16 am

Welcome to the Rickenbacker Forum Ronald. Mitch is right, Paul Wilcynski will finish answering this question for you. Then again, Lennon started with a mapleglo, you could pretend you are in that era. Also, the mapleglo is much easier to keep looking good.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 5:35 am

Hi, Ronald:

A really topnotch professional refinish from MG to JG will have minimal impact upon the guitar's resale value. You can plan on spending E500-750 for this sort of work. Make certain that the luthier is well-versed in finishing with the newer materials. Do not take the guitar to an automotive painter unless he's done many guitars before yours.

Jetglo is a tough finish to get right, and it's all in the details of preparing the surface and how the guitar is color-sanded and rubbed out after the actual spraying.

If the paint job is not properly done, the guitar's resale value will suffer, often quite heavily.

rickatick · Post by **rickatick** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 7:26 am

Thanks to you all for the fast respond! To Paul: I'll let it do by a pro. Wow! E500-750 is a lot of money! Brings me immediately to the tought of trying to find a lower priced C58! I heard the dna is the same as the orignal one (made fromn alder, one pickguard, other knobs) and make it sound more ORIGINAL 50'S but does it sound THAT much better? The V59 sounds great! Does replacement with a Bigsby B-5 give much trouble?

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 7:44 am

Not a lot of money, Ronald, when you consider it represents about 30-40 hours' work, all in,to do this properly.

And if you do find a lower-priced C58, good for you! JG C58s are very thin on the ground, though.

Putting a Bigsby B-50 on any 320 or 325 is a half-hour job, unless you're John Lennn, in which case it takes 30 minutes.

britye · Post by **britye** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 5:01 am

Paul, I'm a former car painter.. What product do you use for paint and how many coats, what grit for color sanding and is it hand rubbed? I'm thinking of taking a stab at refinishing this old Mayfair Jaguar copy that my wife played in high school it's a sunburst finish. but it's pretty beat up w/ knicks and scuffs belt buckle rash ect. Was thinking of suprising her

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 7:06 am

I use Dupont 480S lacquer for my sealer only for transparents like sunbursts or SG Red. I use PPG 280 urethane primer for my solid colors. I mix my own colors in PPG DBC2000 for both solids and transparents. The clear coat is PPG 2042 urethane, two double-wet coats. One day's cure at room temperature, color sand wet with #1000, #1500, #2000. 3M Perfect-It III compound, Scratch-X, Zymol. Hand-rubbed and machine-buffed.

rickatick · Post by **rickatick** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 8:40 am

Paul, thanks again for the info but if I hand over the job to John I think it will take some more time.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 9:25 am

Well, he's probably pretty bored by now. You never know.

britye · Post by **britye** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 4:36 pm

I'm very familiar with the PPG products having used their DBU line. and NCT clear that does not use a catalyst. I was not happy with the NCT clear with the reactive reducer it never really cured. Do you use the foam pad with the 3M perfect it? You must have a complete Deltron mixing system on hand. Pretty handy to have all the material you need nearby without calling in an order to the local jobber. Before the days of BC/CC I sprayed straight lacquer & enamels, then the acrylics, Used to panel paint and some brands matched better than others, But I would peel the paper back and add whatever left over colors I had in the cabinet to tint and match got pretty good at it. But that all changed with the advent of the 2 stage systems.automatically set up to blend into adjacent panels because of the flip flop effect. Single stage urethanes are nice. Fast hiding, 2-3 coats yer dun.

rickatick · Post by **rickatick** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 9:02 pm

One question that I maybe have to put in another topic; are there different v59 been released in the past years with significant difference's and if so, wich one's are better or worse? I move this question also to another topic, I think.