Early 80's SVT vs 70's

jnbass · Post by **jnbass** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 9:07 am

Well said,

Grasshopper

kojakcurtis · Post by **kojakcurtis** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 2:17 pm

Greg, I actually came across a 1980-1985 SVT head for about $500. ( Guy isn't sure exactly what year it is). Compared to 70's SVT's I think its a great price, but my amp tech said if something goes wrong, the parts are non existent. Wouldn't he be able to modify it, or swap them out for a something similar? He also said I should just wait and try to find a deal on an older one, that Id like it way better. I feel like time is running out on getting one for a reasonable price in good shape though. Main reason I want one, is because I'm using the 4x12 HE bass cab's now, and feel my V4B doesn't have enough power to push 2 of these. Maybe I should just get another old V4B.

rictified · Post by **rictified** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:13 pm

I don't know if your tech is right or wrong about parts for MTI's, but he may be right as they aren't exactly common. I do know that parts for 70's SVT's are very easy to get as I've done a lot of work on them. $500.00 is a good price but then again I've seen late 70's SVT's go for 800 bucks and sometimes less, and they sound just like any other 70's head, I have two and would never sell them. If I found a bargain on an MTI head I might buy it just for curiosities sake, but I do have three other SVT's and if something went in it it wouldn't put me down.
I'd get the SVT rather than two V4-B's they are a LOT louder and solid sounding. SVT's will someday be like old Chevies if they aren't so all ready, I think there will always be parts for them, and they will never become obsolete and they will appreciate more and more.

soundmasterg · Post by **soundmasterg** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 10:41 pm

A working MTI for $500 is a great price. I paid $700 for mine about 6 years ago and channel one was miswired from the factory! All of the parts should be available, with the exception of the transformers if it is a later MTI and not an early one like mine, but you could just put in a Magnavox style replacement if needed and have a better one. For the rest of the parts, new manufacture caps and resistors will be better than what was in there (and in the Magnavoxes) so no worries there either. If it is in fact an MTI, it should look like the pics at the links I posted. The St. Louis Music ones from '86 on do look similar, but are different, so you should learn to spot the differences.

http://www.thehushsound.com/1.jpg
http://www.thehushsound.com/2.jpg
http://www.thehushsound.com/3.jpg

I agree with Bob regarding the collectibility of SVT's. They will always be desired and parts will be available for them, and they will keep going up in value too. The Lindon, NJ 6146 models will be worth the most, followed by the Magnavoxes, followed by the MTI's, and then followed by everything since. I'd go for the MTI myself as long as it works. If you have to do some work, it can get expensive if it needs tubes or transformers, but the caps and resistors are easy and cheap.

admin · Post by **admin** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 12:12 am

Completely off topic here Greg, but can you tell me the rating of the slow blow primary fuse used in the Korg AC30 Reissues. Does 3 Amp 250V sound right?

jnbass · Post by **jnbass** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 9:38 am

https://schematicheavencom.secure.powweb.com/voxamps/ac3093pa.pdf

soundmasterg · Post by **soundmasterg** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 1:14 pm

Peter, he beat me to posting the schematic. If you look on there it shows 2 amp for the primary side fuse, and 3 amp for the secondary ones, with the exception of the 500 ma fuse in there. Are you blowing fuses? I recently blew the 500 ma one and the 2 amp primary one when my stock Chinese made GZ34 decided it had enough after 10 years. So I replaced the fuses, switched to a NOS Amperex and it sounds even better than before!

admin · Post by **admin** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 3:12 pm

Jared and Greg: I suspect my 9 year old GZ34 is the culprit. Thanks for the information. Yes, just the primary fuse is blowing.

jnbass · Post by **jnbass** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 4:45 pm

Mullard!

soundmasterg · Post by **soundmasterg** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 6:34 pm

It sounds like a bad GZ34 Peter. Go with a good used old stock one, like an Amperex, Mullard, etc, get a NOS one for the $$, or get a new JJ. You could try a Copper Cap WZ34 too, and I would get one anyway just to have around in case the tube one goes out. The CC sounds similar to the tube but won't ever go bad since it is a solid state replacement that emulates the voltage drop of the tube. I would say it gets about 80% of the tone of the tube rectifier, and is cheap at $20. Good to have around for a backup. I tried it in mine and liked it, but the tube GZ34 was better to my ears so I went with that. You can get the CC at www.webervst.com.

bigbajo60 · Post by **bigbajo60** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 7:56 pm

There's what appears to be a Boston-based Magnavox-era SVT floating on the bay as we speak!

http://cgi.ebay.com/1970s-AMPEG-SVT-300-WATT-BASS-AMP-CLEAN-COLLECTABLE_W0QQitemZ7345418471QQcategoryZ43372QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Kinda pricey though.

rictified · Post by **rictified** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 3:37 am

That amp looks to be in mint shape that's one of the reasons it's so high and I doubt it will sell at that price. That seller buys a lot of Ampeg stuff on ebay and sells it at a higher price. You can get a head like that for half that price, that's a late 70's head.

rictified · Post by **rictified** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 6:31 am

here's the real deal, you don't see matching heads and cabinets every day especially from 1970, I would grab this in a second:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ampeg-1970-SVT-Tube-Bass-Amp-with-8x10-Speaker-Cabinet_W0QQitemZ7345676221QQcategoryZ43372QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

80stingray · Post by **80stingray** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 7:26 am

Too bad he won't ship, that is a great deal. Bob, would you concider the previous 70's SVT on ebay a prime example of one to buy and how much do you think it is really worth? I may concider getting this one. It is priced high but being in near mint condition and apparently in prime working order may be worth it to me. Maybe better than buying a cheaper example in less shape and having to spend money to get it into good shape. What do you think?

rhampshire · Post by **rhampshire** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 10:03 am

Just because it looks good doesn't mean jack - capacitors are the components in amps that go bad over time, and they usually fail more from underuse than overuse.

I'd find a beater, buy a new faceplate/knobs/corners/grill cloth from fliptops.net and restore it.