General questions - wood glues

seoigh · Post by **seoigh** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 2:50 pm

On the other hand, if Gorilla Glue had been used on the kerfing of my '53 Gretsch, I would never have been able to have it restored. The whole thing had to come apart, unfortunately. As you can surmise, it was in pretty rough shape.

I've used Gorilla Glue to repair furniture (a broken chair leg) and I've been positively amazed with the results. I don't know of a stronger glue -- maybe there is one, but I can't say what.

Speaking of which, John -- do you have recommendations for the type of glue to use on that 330/12 nut you just sold me? What dy'all use on them in the factory?

Any help would be appreciated greatly.

awoodfellow · Post by **awoodfellow** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 3:02 pm

So I'm doing a ScratchX job on my other Guild, F212, and low and behold I find a hair line crack about an inch up from the pick guard and just under the B string. This pick guard is shrinking too! I'll be taking the guard off this weekend.

Maybe I'll do a photo shoot on the process.

I'm afraid though this will have to be cleated.

ahhh.... Well on the other hand it is almost 30 years old.

ambrose

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 3:18 pm

Easy on removing the guard, Ambrose. Getting it off is much more than half the battle.

johnhall · Post by **johnhall** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 3:35 pm

Bradley, aliphatic resin glue aka woodworker's yellow glue. Just the tiniest drop is all you need.

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 6:56 pm

Right on John, that's what we used in 1972 and you still use it today. Hardware stores sell it under the name: Titebond