Nut popped off my 4003
Moderator: jingle_jangle
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4003seagreen
- Veteran RRF member
- Posts: 153
- Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2001 4:04 pm
Nut popped off my 4003
I was changing the strings on my 4003 this weekend. When I tightened the A string, apparantly the string was a little tight getting it into the groove (once the string is in the slot it fits, it just had a problem getting it into the slot through the groove), when the nut popped clean off of the fretboard. I called my guitar tech, and he told me to simply super glue it back into place, which I did. Will I now have a chronic problem with the nut, or should it stay in place with no problem?
Well it will stay in place , but I personally NEVER use any Super glues to hold guitar or bass nuts on with .
WHY?????
THe water thin stuff soaks into the pores of the wood and loves to cause troubles when you need to replace them , especially CF Martin and Fender type guitars . The Martins have compouind angles and removing a CA /Super glue nut from those tends to take part of the headstock over lay with it .
With Fenders , the nut sits in a trough and as the CA /Super glue wicks into the walls , removing almost guarentees taking the thin section of fretboard on the headstock side with it if it needs to be replaced .
I use one of two glues for this job .
Yellow woodworkers glue , although this requires about 3 hours to dry decently before you can do anything with it . It rarely remove/pulls wood with it . Elmer's White glue is also okay .
But I like 5 minute Devcon epoxy , It fills voids/gaps, and releases the nut when tapped . It also can be removed like a worn gasket so that the next nut will fit cleanly .
Both of these types of glues are excellent .
CA /Super glues are great , but they have their place . Nuts and broken headstocks are NOT the place for this glue .
WHY?????
THe water thin stuff soaks into the pores of the wood and loves to cause troubles when you need to replace them , especially CF Martin and Fender type guitars . The Martins have compouind angles and removing a CA /Super glue nut from those tends to take part of the headstock over lay with it .
With Fenders , the nut sits in a trough and as the CA /Super glue wicks into the walls , removing almost guarentees taking the thin section of fretboard on the headstock side with it if it needs to be replaced .
I use one of two glues for this job .
Yellow woodworkers glue , although this requires about 3 hours to dry decently before you can do anything with it . It rarely remove/pulls wood with it . Elmer's White glue is also okay .
But I like 5 minute Devcon epoxy , It fills voids/gaps, and releases the nut when tapped . It also can be removed like a worn gasket so that the next nut will fit cleanly .
Both of these types of glues are excellent .
CA /Super glues are great , but they have their place . Nuts and broken headstocks are NOT the place for this glue .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
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4003seagreen
- Veteran RRF member
- Posts: 153
- Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2001 4:04 pm
I use nothing to attach my nuts apart from string tension. If I change all strings at once, the nut simply falls off, but with strings on it doesn't move at all. I can't say I do much string bending on the first or second fret, but I have never had a problem with an unsecured nut.
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three rights do make a left.
I prefer to keep my nuts firmly attached .
As to are you hosed , ...no .
With a Rick , you have a fairly large area to spread the glue out on , and nothing should 'pull off' .
However you will find that having your nut secured , does give you better continuity concerning sustain and general tone . It also keeps tuning problems at bay .
changing one string at a time is , and don't think that this is bashing , generally for timid players who do not spend a lot of time doing this task .
It does not take me very long to remove , restring and tune a guitar . I have been timed before at under 3 minutes on my Les Paul Standard.
As to are you hosed , ...no .
With a Rick , you have a fairly large area to spread the glue out on , and nothing should 'pull off' .
However you will find that having your nut secured , does give you better continuity concerning sustain and general tone . It also keeps tuning problems at bay .
changing one string at a time is , and don't think that this is bashing , generally for timid players who do not spend a lot of time doing this task .
It does not take me very long to remove , restring and tune a guitar . I have been timed before at under 3 minutes on my Les Paul Standard.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
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4003seagreen
- Veteran RRF member
- Posts: 153
- Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2001 4:04 pm
A word from a timid player (lol): Mark, does your rule for string changing a bass apply to guitars as well? I guess it does, since there have been threads about R tailpieces and such falling off during string changing.
I have never had an R tailpiece, so it's not been an issue, but I am waiting for my new 360/6 to arrive, which Will have one. I planned to continue my method of string changing: 1 at a time.
1. What is the disadvantage of 1 at a time string changing? I thought it was advantageous because it kept a continuous tension on the neck. I am not one to try to re-intonate my guitars. (I know...lose the skirt...get with the program...grow up -- I'm workin it!) Is this a myth?
2. What is the advantage to doing them all at once?
I hope I am making sense. Keeping a Rick in tune can be complex for some of us, and I know I can learn it all here!
I have never had an R tailpiece, so it's not been an issue, but I am waiting for my new 360/6 to arrive, which Will have one. I planned to continue my method of string changing: 1 at a time.
1. What is the disadvantage of 1 at a time string changing? I thought it was advantageous because it kept a continuous tension on the neck. I am not one to try to re-intonate my guitars. (I know...lose the skirt...get with the program...grow up -- I'm workin it!) Is this a myth?
2. What is the advantage to doing them all at once?
I hope I am making sense. Keeping a Rick in tune can be complex for some of us, and I know I can learn it all here!
I've done both ways, and I've never had a problem with either way. But, I do prefer to take them all off at once because if I do one at a time, I'm afraid that I'll forget the last string I did, and accidentally cut that one off!! I do, however change one at a time on my 330 because of the R tailpiece.
Mr. Phelps, while Mark is taking a breather as he aligns his nuts and ensures they are intact, I will string you along for awhile.
Without fretting too much, I see no disadvantage of stringing things along one by one. This method has served me well and bridges the gap from one set of strings to another. It does indeed minimize some stress and avoids releasing tension all at once, which on some occasions can be problematic particularly if you are adjusting the G string. Continuous neck tension can lead to headaches so some may like the relief of taking everything off all at once.
As to the advantage of "doing them all at once" it seems to me that this would really be a matter of personal preference. It allows for rubbing down the neck and having a close look at the pickups. Bridging the gap between techniques old and new is a challenge and I concur it is important to keep things in tune. I am sure that Mark will be able to add to these comments. As you can tell, I have far too much time on my hands this afternoon.
Without fretting too much, I see no disadvantage of stringing things along one by one. This method has served me well and bridges the gap from one set of strings to another. It does indeed minimize some stress and avoids releasing tension all at once, which on some occasions can be problematic particularly if you are adjusting the G string. Continuous neck tension can lead to headaches so some may like the relief of taking everything off all at once.
As to the advantage of "doing them all at once" it seems to me that this would really be a matter of personal preference. It allows for rubbing down the neck and having a close look at the pickups. Bridging the gap between techniques old and new is a challenge and I concur it is important to keep things in tune. I am sure that Mark will be able to add to these comments. As you can tell, I have far too much time on my hands this afternoon.
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm
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Thanks Peter for fondling your time piece for us.
Changing of ALL the strings at once can be frustrating for those folks who do not change strings as often as someone like myself ....What with customer guitars and my own personal instruments , I seem to be doing this all the time .
On my own guitars , I never do them one at a time , simpley because I like to polish my frets , clean the fretboard , and check the condition of it at stringing time .
I also check the bridge on my Gibson type guitars , for sway back .This is a common thing with those bridges . I have not seen it on Ricks ... interesting huh?
The "tension on the neck" issue does not seem to have any effect with any of my guitars .
I only own one Rick ........ Hmmmmm.
The 'R' tailpiece is a nice decoration , but as a functional tailpiece , the vintage is easier to deal with .
As to changing one by one on any guitar ......DIVE in and deal with it ....get your feet wet . You WILL NOT wreck the guitar . If your neck is not stable enough for doing this ... WOW , if that is the case , then I think you need a different guitar !!!!!
Wobble necked guitars are not a true PRO guitar in my book . I know of NO PRO player that wants one .
Changing of ALL the strings at once can be frustrating for those folks who do not change strings as often as someone like myself ....What with customer guitars and my own personal instruments , I seem to be doing this all the time .
On my own guitars , I never do them one at a time , simpley because I like to polish my frets , clean the fretboard , and check the condition of it at stringing time .
I also check the bridge on my Gibson type guitars , for sway back .This is a common thing with those bridges . I have not seen it on Ricks ... interesting huh?
The "tension on the neck" issue does not seem to have any effect with any of my guitars .
I only own one Rick ........ Hmmmmm.
The 'R' tailpiece is a nice decoration , but as a functional tailpiece , the vintage is easier to deal with .
As to changing one by one on any guitar ......DIVE in and deal with it ....get your feet wet . You WILL NOT wreck the guitar . If your neck is not stable enough for doing this ... WOW , if that is the case , then I think you need a different guitar !!!!!
Wobble necked guitars are not a true PRO guitar in my book . I know of NO PRO player that wants one .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
