hey quick question:
I've not got my 12 string Ric yet, but I was wondering about stringing the 6 in the grooves. It doesn't look like there's room to do the wrap under lock thing (a la Rickenbacker and Gretsch recommendations in manuals). Is it possible or do you just feed it through and bend back?
If you follow my word jumble
Stringing a 12-er
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steve_hershberger
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I've only restrung mine once - I've only had it since August though. I kind of went against the norm and took all the strings off first so as to maximize the room to work. I suggest putting on the strings in the slots first (but that's just how I did it).
Anyway, I do it just like on all my guitars... Pull the string up to the next highest tuning peg, bend it at a 90 degree angle, and cut it so about 1/2" is beyond the bend. In other words, let's say you're installing the low E octave string - pull it up to the A octave string post, bend and cut there. You'll have a couple inches of string to wrap around the post.
Insert the angled end and start tuning. I wrap the string once on the inside side of the peg hole and the rest on the outside side of the hole. The wraps will tighten up against the little part of the string sticking out of the hole. That's always been enough of a "lock" for me on any kind of tuner peg.
After you're done with the 6 slot strings, just install the rest as normal.
Hope this makes sense. It's harder to write about than to do it.
Anyway, I do it just like on all my guitars... Pull the string up to the next highest tuning peg, bend it at a 90 degree angle, and cut it so about 1/2" is beyond the bend. In other words, let's say you're installing the low E octave string - pull it up to the A octave string post, bend and cut there. You'll have a couple inches of string to wrap around the post.
Insert the angled end and start tuning. I wrap the string once on the inside side of the peg hole and the rest on the outside side of the hole. The wraps will tighten up against the little part of the string sticking out of the hole. That's always been enough of a "lock" for me on any kind of tuner peg.
After you're done with the 6 slot strings, just install the rest as normal.
Hope this makes sense. It's harder to write about than to do it.
Not knowing exactly what you're talking about, here's the procedure I use for stringing my 360/12:
1. Remove the first "low E" string by unwinding the tuning machine.
Note: You may need to cut the curly winding from the top of the string to fit between the bridge saddle and the bridge cover.
2. Remove the string through the bridge cover and wind up for discard.
3. Ready new "low E" string by unwinding it out of the wrapper.
4. Slip the "eye" of the string into the slot of the "R" tailpiece, making sure that it stays in the slot by keeping tension on the string. Slip the string underneath the bridge cover.
Note: The bridge cover can be removed to make stringing easier. I leave mine on because I don't want to lose the screws.
5. Install a capo in the middle of the fingerboard to hold the string in slight tension. This will keep the "eyelet" in the "R" tailpiece slot while you wind the string in the peghead.
6. With your left hand (if you're right handed), run the string past the appropriate tuner. Snip off the excess string past the tuner about two inches.
7. Slip the string end into the tuning peg hole such that 1/4" sticks out past the peg.
8. Wind the string up to pitch making sure that the winding are straight and uniform and are forced to trap the string in the peg opening.
9. Tune the string up to pitch.
Repeat this procedure for the rest of the strings. If you've done it right, all the strings should have an equal amount of string sticking past each peg/post.
1. Remove the first "low E" string by unwinding the tuning machine.
Note: You may need to cut the curly winding from the top of the string to fit between the bridge saddle and the bridge cover.
2. Remove the string through the bridge cover and wind up for discard.
3. Ready new "low E" string by unwinding it out of the wrapper.
4. Slip the "eye" of the string into the slot of the "R" tailpiece, making sure that it stays in the slot by keeping tension on the string. Slip the string underneath the bridge cover.
Note: The bridge cover can be removed to make stringing easier. I leave mine on because I don't want to lose the screws.
5. Install a capo in the middle of the fingerboard to hold the string in slight tension. This will keep the "eyelet" in the "R" tailpiece slot while you wind the string in the peghead.
6. With your left hand (if you're right handed), run the string past the appropriate tuner. Snip off the excess string past the tuner about two inches.
7. Slip the string end into the tuning peg hole such that 1/4" sticks out past the peg.
8. Wind the string up to pitch making sure that the winding are straight and uniform and are forced to trap the string in the peg opening.
9. Tune the string up to pitch.
Repeat this procedure for the rest of the strings. If you've done it right, all the strings should have an equal amount of string sticking past each peg/post.
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steve_hershberger
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Rob - I've never seen the Gretsch manual, but I've got a real good idea of how they're picturing the stringing process. That "stick it thru the hole, wrap the string around it backwards, then wrap/tune it up normally" right? I know I'm not explaining what I mean correctly, but those kind of "string tying" instructions ever made sense to me either. Too complicated to me, and I've been dealing with stringing guitars for 38+ years, so I'm just used to doing what works fine for me.
Back in August when I got my 360/12v64 I also bought the Roger McGuinn DVD thinking it'd give me the magic formula for stringing up my 12 string.
Well, all I can say is that it's interesting and well worth buying - but I started out trying his methods of restringing (and trussrod adjustments) but quickly went back to my own tried and true methods for that stuff. What it comes down to is what'll work for you.
Back in August when I got my 360/12v64 I also bought the Roger McGuinn DVD thinking it'd give me the magic formula for stringing up my 12 string.
Well, all I can say is that it's interesting and well worth buying - but I started out trying his methods of restringing (and trussrod adjustments) but quickly went back to my own tried and true methods for that stuff. What it comes down to is what'll work for you.
Chris -- your idea #5 (use a capo to hold the string in place) -- what a great idea! I wish I'd seen this about 2 weeks ago. I just restrung my 360-12 and I looked like a sick octopus trying to keep the string tension tight so it wouldn't fall out of the "R"-tailpiece, then SOMEHOW get the sting into the groove, thru the eyelet....ay, caramba!
And I also do the inside-the-groove strings first. I don't take all the strings off -- just the 6 on one side, restring, then the six on the other, etc. Has anybody had any experience with the NEW headstock design? Does it make re-stringing easier?
Thanks for that capo idea.
And I also do the inside-the-groove strings first. I don't take all the strings off -- just the 6 on one side, restring, then the six on the other, etc. Has anybody had any experience with the NEW headstock design? Does it make re-stringing easier?
Thanks for that capo idea.