How much would this cost to fix?

stuart · Post by **stuart** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:16 am

Hey guys, a roommate of mine has an old Epiphone acoustic which has just been sitting in his closet for a long time.

(http://www.mosportgp.com/music/guitars/epiacoustic1.jpg)

The action was really bad, and I think the strings that were on it were way too heavy, because the tension on the neck caused this to happen:

(http://www.mosportgp.com/music/guitars/epiacoustic2.jpg)

But it would be nice to have another acoustic in the house, so I am thinking about taking it in to have it fixed. I've never had to have something like this fixed on one of my guitars though, so I have no idea how much it would cost. Does it just need the neck to be reset and a fresh set of strings? The guitar itself used to have a nice, bright tone back when the action wasn't too bad, but it became unplayable since the last time I had seen it. It definitely seems worth fixing though.

Lastly, I'm not so sure that the nut was cut right, because when I played this guitar in the past, it always felt as if the high E was really far apart from the B string.

(http://www.mosportgp.com/music/guitars/epiacoustic3.jpg)

Thanks for your help.

winston · Post by **winston** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:47 am

If it's repairable and there is no way of knowing without looking into the sound hole, It may run you up to $200.00 to get it fixed depending on the severity of the problem.

The spacing on the nut does seem to be off judging by your photograph. That is a much easier and cheaper fix.

If I were you I would take it to a good luthier or someone experienced in both violin and acoustic guitar repairs for an estimate.

doctorwho · Post by **doctorwho** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 12:39 pm

Stuart, I agree with Brian with regard to taking it to a qualified luthier for an estimate.

I'm no luthier, but I don't necessarily agree about the cut of the nut; the guitar has a zero fret, so the purpose of the nut is different from that on a regular (no zero nut) guitar. Now, if the strings felt "off" in regard to their position on the guitar when played, then that is a different matter that would need to be addressed.

Overall, the guitar looks to be in good shape, and restoration would probably be a worthwhile investment.

admin · Post by **admin** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 1:56 pm

Sage advice from Brian and Gary, Stuart.

I wouldn't touch a closeted instrument in this condition.

These instruments are not that expensive and, even though it remains and empirical question, based on the photo and brief history I suspect you are throwing good money after bad.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 2:37 pm

I agree with Peter on this one and believe that Brian's estimate is on the low side, by about 50% or more. I'm seeing about $375.00 minimum on this one, but without a good look at the brrrrracing (Scottish for bracing) and top, it's up inna air.

winston · Post by **winston** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 2:51 pm

The estimate I provided was based on a quote my cousin received on an Epiphone 12 string acoustic of 60s vintage with much the same problem. He has made the guitar into a wall hanger BTW.

Yes, I agree that it could conceivably cost double that depending on the problems encountered. The back of the instrument in question could well be cracked. Also if the bracing is structurally compromised in any way then it is debatable whether or not it is worth saving.

In my cousins case the wood was so dried out that the structural integrity of the guitar would always be in question. So he decided to not throw good money after bad. So a wall hanger it is.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 6:26 pm

Brian, I wasn't challenging your veracity; no doubt we have two unique situations and I wuz just guessing, as you must have realized. My main point is that there is a point at which you step away, and this guitar is near that point, if not right on it. I was mostly agreeing with Peter.

jnbass · Post by **jnbass** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 6:34 pm

buy a new one!

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 6:43 pm

And how does that strange Fender res-o-bass sound, J?

winston · Post by **winston** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 6:54 pm

Nice bass Jared. Let's see the headstock.

jerrymac51 · Post by **jerrymac51** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 7:36 pm

Stuart,

I used to have one like this in the 70s. Isn't this a bolt-on neck with a back plate and 4 screws??? Have you tried tightening the screws???

Jerry

winston · Post by **winston** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 7:50 pm

Jeepers Stuart, don't tell me that it's a bolt on neck.

ken_j · Post by **ken_j** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 2:10 am

I have one of those made in Japan bolt on neck Epi's in my basement now. The top is pulled at the bridge. I don't think it is worth the effort or expense to repair. I was thinking of converting it to a resonator guitar with parts from Stew Mac. I'm not even sure it is worth that.

Stuart, If you need a neck for your project email me. I am sure we can work something out.

stuart · Post by **stuart** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 9:03 am

Yes, it is a bolt on neck. I should have prefaced this by saying that I have absolutely no experience in neck troubleshooting. After reading Jerry's post, I tried tightening the screws, and it did help, but I don't know if it would stay that way if I put new strings on... It was so bad when I last saw it, that it would have been an excellent slide guitar. Aside from tightening the screws, is there anything else I can do to secure the neck? I have no idea what's behind the backplate, but is there anything there that I could check out?

I also agree that it's not worth spending hundreds of dollars to fix this. You can often find new Takamines for less than $300, and those sound brighter than this guitar ever did. If this one doesn't have a simple fix, perhaps it'll be a wall hanger for a while.

Thanks for the input, everyone. I appreciate it.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 5:06 pm

Well, that changes the picture!

First, unscrew the neck and remove it and make sure the tenon and neck pocket are clean and free from obstructions, and the neck will sit flat and square in the pocket.

You should next look at the screws and check their lengths against the neck block area, to see if there's any more "meat" left in the neck area. If there is, you could try a slightly longer screw. You could also go up one size in the screws. If they are #8s or the metric equivalent, you could try #10s the same length, but be careful and if they are really tough to drive in, stop and just use the longer ones in original diameter.

If, after tightening as much as you feel is safe, the action is still bad, your cost to repair will exceed value by far.