Green Frets
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
I got the stuff, but haven't tried it yet. I'm not sure, it doesn't really look like oxidation, it's very smooth, and only on the ends of the frets. It is unsightly, I'll try it tonight and get back to you.
"Say what you like about the tenets of national socialism, Dude, at least it's an ethos." - Walter Sobchak.
The 3M polish did nothing. I don't know if the green fret ends are oxidation? It almost looks like the fret glue turned green. It's totally smooth, it's not like a rough corrosion or anything like that.
"Say what you like about the tenets of national socialism, Dude, at least it's an ethos." - Walter Sobchak.
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jingle_jangle
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Sorry to have misled you, Steve, but it's clear now what you meant by "fret ends".
The reason the 3M Polish did nothing is because in your case, the corrosion is underneath the conversion varnish.
1. Fret ends (beyond the levelled area) are varnished over. When you said "fret ends" in your original post, I should have asked you for a photo. I assumed (mistake) that you were talking about the edges of the frets on the fretboard surface. Apparently you meant the end parts that are varnished over.
2. Because the frets are levelled and this process cuts through the varnish on the tops of the frets, a passageway can then be opened between the fret itself and the air, beneath the varnish. This allows the acids, salts and moisture from your hands and the atmosphere, to seep under the varnish and corrode the fret ends.
Dale Fortune has commented that this does not affect playability, but it is unsightly.
How to solve? Fine sandpaper on a block, to cut through the old varnish in the affected areas and to burnish the frets to remove the corrosion. Then a touchup with varnish or clear nail polish.
For me, this would be a fairly easy fix, literally less than an hour. But if you're squeamish about doing this yourself and it still bugs you no end, enlist the services of a good repair tech.
The reason the 3M Polish did nothing is because in your case, the corrosion is underneath the conversion varnish.
1. Fret ends (beyond the levelled area) are varnished over. When you said "fret ends" in your original post, I should have asked you for a photo. I assumed (mistake) that you were talking about the edges of the frets on the fretboard surface. Apparently you meant the end parts that are varnished over.
2. Because the frets are levelled and this process cuts through the varnish on the tops of the frets, a passageway can then be opened between the fret itself and the air, beneath the varnish. This allows the acids, salts and moisture from your hands and the atmosphere, to seep under the varnish and corrode the fret ends.
Dale Fortune has commented that this does not affect playability, but it is unsightly.
How to solve? Fine sandpaper on a block, to cut through the old varnish in the affected areas and to burnish the frets to remove the corrosion. Then a touchup with varnish or clear nail polish.
For me, this would be a fairly easy fix, literally less than an hour. But if you're squeamish about doing this yourself and it still bugs you no end, enlist the services of a good repair tech.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
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jingle_jangle
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Steve, I would use Perfect-It III on a Jetglo guitar only as a first step to a really glassy finish, as it does leave some hazing which Scratch-X removes.
Apply the Perfect-It III by rubbing in a dime-sized amount with the usual CSCC. When the entire guitar is nice and clean and smooth, use Scratch-X, applied in the same manner, but with a different CSCC. (I cut diapers into 1/4s. I use one quarter each for Perfect-It, Scratch-X, and Zymol. I use the fourth piece as a dry buffing cloth to remove the wax haze.)
Go over the whole guitar with the Scratch-X, and then follow with Zymol.
Jetglo guitars take the most care to get perfect, but when they're done, they look spectacular!
Perfect-It III is a great chrome polish for your guitars.
I do not recommend automotive chrome polish for use on guitars. It is too coarse. But the Perfect-It III is perfect. Don't forget the CSCC.
Apply the Perfect-It III by rubbing in a dime-sized amount with the usual CSCC. When the entire guitar is nice and clean and smooth, use Scratch-X, applied in the same manner, but with a different CSCC. (I cut diapers into 1/4s. I use one quarter each for Perfect-It, Scratch-X, and Zymol. I use the fourth piece as a dry buffing cloth to remove the wax haze.)
Go over the whole guitar with the Scratch-X, and then follow with Zymol.
Jetglo guitars take the most care to get perfect, but when they're done, they look spectacular!
Perfect-It III is a great chrome polish for your guitars.
I do not recommend automotive chrome polish for use on guitars. It is too coarse. But the Perfect-It III is perfect. Don't forget the CSCC.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
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jingle_jangle
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Is it number 39003? 3M makes about 40 different Perfect-It and Finesse-It products. (no exaggeration).
It's less abrasive than Perfect-It III, number 05933, somewhere between this product and Scratch-It.
Both of these 3M products are suited for guitar applications. There are others, too but the list is longish.
As a rule of thumb:
1. Avoid any rubbing compound that is not liquid in consistency, regardless of the name or color.
2. Avoid any compounds that are not white or off-white.
3. Glazes like "Liquid Ebony" are actually surface coatings that take the heat of friction of a machine buffer, to work properly and do not work when applied by hand.
If you're doing a real thorough job, it helps to remove guards, strings, bridge, tailpiece, TRC, tuners, strap pegs. Pickups need to be unsoldered at the point where leads attach to pot terminals, switch terminals, pot cases. Bridge ground needs to be unsoldered from bridge plate, if so attached.
It sounds like a big hassle, and it can be depending upon your mindset. To do a guitar start to finish for me, doing a strip down as described, takes about 2 1/2-3 hours.
It's less abrasive than Perfect-It III, number 05933, somewhere between this product and Scratch-It.
Both of these 3M products are suited for guitar applications. There are others, too but the list is longish.
As a rule of thumb:
1. Avoid any rubbing compound that is not liquid in consistency, regardless of the name or color.
2. Avoid any compounds that are not white or off-white.
3. Glazes like "Liquid Ebony" are actually surface coatings that take the heat of friction of a machine buffer, to work properly and do not work when applied by hand.
If you're doing a real thorough job, it helps to remove guards, strings, bridge, tailpiece, TRC, tuners, strap pegs. Pickups need to be unsoldered at the point where leads attach to pot terminals, switch terminals, pot cases. Bridge ground needs to be unsoldered from bridge plate, if so attached.
It sounds like a big hassle, and it can be depending upon your mindset. To do a guitar start to finish for me, doing a strip down as described, takes about 2 1/2-3 hours.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
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jingle_jangle
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Yes, but you will notice some haze, as this is a good cleaner but not the finer abrasive needed to make a JG guitar look like glass.
Follow it up with Scratch-X and then do the Zymol Boogie with a CSCC to protect the surface.
Follow it up with Scratch-X and then do the Zymol Boogie with a CSCC to protect the surface.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
Here is a picture I never showed.
I can't stand these greenies anymore. I'm going to take care of this issue, it's no good.
So Paul, for JG, the products are Scratch-X and Zymol Boogie, along with the Finesse-It II (which I already have)? Who makes them ? You should right a pamphlet on Ric care for everyone here.
I can't stand these greenies anymore. I'm going to take care of this issue, it's no good.
So Paul, for JG, the products are Scratch-X and Zymol Boogie, along with the Finesse-It II (which I already have)? Who makes them ? You should right a pamphlet on Ric care for everyone here.
"Say what you like about the tenets of national socialism, Dude, at least it's an ethos." - Walter Sobchak.
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jingle_jangle
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LOL. Steve, it's Zymol Cleaner Wax. The "boogie" is what you do with it after you put a dab onto a CSCC.
The 3M compound should take care of those green fret ends. Use a sturdy cloth to apply it. The ends will shred paper products.
If you want to do the job quickly and right, you can use a Dremel tool with a #414 felt polishing wheel and a bit of jeweler's rouge or the 3M compound. Then some wax as a preventative measure.
The 3M compound should take care of those green fret ends. Use a sturdy cloth to apply it. The ends will shred paper products.
If you want to do the job quickly and right, you can use a Dremel tool with a #414 felt polishing wheel and a bit of jeweler's rouge or the 3M compound. Then some wax as a preventative measure.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
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jingle_jangle
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Sorry, Steve--I forgot--it's been awhile.
Here's how to fix it:
There are three steps involved:
1. You will need to remove the varnish (which isn't sticking to the fret ends anyway; the corrosion has bloomed in the airspace between the fret end and the varnish), so that you can get at the ends to remove the corrosion.
2. Polish the corrosion away as I've described above.
3. Reseal the fret ends again.
Details:
Using a sharp X-Acto knife or a new single-edged razor blade, shave the conversion varnish off the fret ends ONLY. You may have to pick a bit at the varnish which is in the fret sawn slots, to get the tiny bits out.
Once you have the ends polished, you then take a small brush and a bit of clear nail polish and you dab a bit on each fret end. Two coats wouldn't hurt, either! Be neat with it and you'll end up with the fretboard looking fine once again.
I find that a 4X Opti-Visor is very helpful when doing these fiddly chores, and it allows you to focus close-up on the tiny area in question. Believe it or not, an Opti-Visor even helps to steady your hand!
Here's how to fix it:
There are three steps involved:
1. You will need to remove the varnish (which isn't sticking to the fret ends anyway; the corrosion has bloomed in the airspace between the fret end and the varnish), so that you can get at the ends to remove the corrosion.
2. Polish the corrosion away as I've described above.
3. Reseal the fret ends again.
Details:
Using a sharp X-Acto knife or a new single-edged razor blade, shave the conversion varnish off the fret ends ONLY. You may have to pick a bit at the varnish which is in the fret sawn slots, to get the tiny bits out.
Once you have the ends polished, you then take a small brush and a bit of clear nail polish and you dab a bit on each fret end. Two coats wouldn't hurt, either! Be neat with it and you'll end up with the fretboard looking fine once again.
I find that a 4X Opti-Visor is very helpful when doing these fiddly chores, and it allows you to focus close-up on the tiny area in question. Believe it or not, an Opti-Visor even helps to steady your hand!
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
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dale_fortune
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jingle_jangle
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And I thought I was a curmudgeon...
Dale is correct in that, over time, this will happen again, but if you wipe your guitar down when the fretboard and frets get sweaty, this should delay it.
I believe John Hall has mantioned that RIC uses a corrosion-resistant alloy on its fretwire, so hopefully this would help to stretch the time out, too.
Dale is correct in that, over time, this will happen again, but if you wipe your guitar down when the fretboard and frets get sweaty, this should delay it.
I believe John Hall has mantioned that RIC uses a corrosion-resistant alloy on its fretwire, so hopefully this would help to stretch the time out, too.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut