My 69 4001 needs the rods re-arched
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- chefothefuture
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Ken-
Did you check the fit of the rods?
It's pretty critical that they're fairly snug against
the top and bottom of the channel.
If the fit is loose even a slight amount, the rods will
separate and not work.
Replacing the active portion of the rod with a heavier
stock works in the most extreme cases.
Did you check the fit of the rods?
It's pretty critical that they're fairly snug against
the top and bottom of the channel.
If the fit is loose even a slight amount, the rods will
separate and not work.
Replacing the active portion of the rod with a heavier
stock works in the most extreme cases.
'68 4001MG, '70 4001 21Fret, '71 4001S MG, '71 4001FG, '72 4001AZ, '73 4001FG, '73 4001resto, '59 365FG, '96 381/12v69FG, '71 4001 21Fret FG
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ken_swearingen
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ken_swearingen
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- chefothefuture
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The design is actually sound IF the right procedures are followed. But like any fine racing machine, it requires
patience and tinkering( said by a Jaguar enthusiast...)
In fact, the New design when used in the 12 strings has
been ugly in my part of the world- the wood compresses
at the heal end and the neck never stays adjusted. My 97
381/12 had the nuts come out the other side!
For strings, I use Blue Steel 45-100 with no trouble at all.
They seem to have a lower tension the regular nickel or
stainless(rebar has less tension the regular stainless...).
patience and tinkering( said by a Jaguar enthusiast...)
In fact, the New design when used in the 12 strings has
been ugly in my part of the world- the wood compresses
at the heal end and the neck never stays adjusted. My 97
381/12 had the nuts come out the other side!
For strings, I use Blue Steel 45-100 with no trouble at all.
They seem to have a lower tension the regular nickel or
stainless(rebar has less tension the regular stainless...).
'68 4001MG, '70 4001 21Fret, '71 4001S MG, '71 4001FG, '72 4001AZ, '73 4001FG, '73 4001resto, '59 365FG, '96 381/12v69FG, '71 4001 21Fret FG
- headbanger
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- Posts: 735
- Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2001 10:06 pm
This arching of the rods is pointless because of how you must bend them to get them back in. This defeats the purpose. The best bet for more backpressure is a thicker bar that won't bend the threaded rod so much.
The two centre strings are the highest tension so try a 55 and a 70 if you can bear it. New Rics come with a 55 but not the 70. On the 1999 I use nickel 45 55 70 95, a hand picked set. I did try 35/40 for the G & 90 for E but they were just too light.
JH mentioned somewhere that chromes are are the least tension followed by nickel. I chose the nickel for fret life reasons.
Ken, with the strings off & the rods undone is the neck straight or does it have a forward bow?
The two centre strings are the highest tension so try a 55 and a 70 if you can bear it. New Rics come with a 55 but not the 70. On the 1999 I use nickel 45 55 70 95, a hand picked set. I did try 35/40 for the G & 90 for E but they were just too light.
JH mentioned somewhere that chromes are are the least tension followed by nickel. I chose the nickel for fret life reasons.
Ken, with the strings off & the rods undone is the neck straight or does it have a forward bow?
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ken_swearingen
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- headbanger
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ken_swearingen
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ken_swearingen
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