Bridge height adjustment screws

ric480 · Post by **ric480** » Fri Dec 01, 2000 1:58 pm

I was wondering if there was anything I could do to keep the bridge height adjustment screws from moving. I've removed the bridge cover to facilitate palm muting (just can't seem to get it right with the cover in place) and I find the screws turning up and out of place. The rubber grommets on the screws seem to be useless. I know this could effect action/intonantion but I guess I've been lucky: I just tighten the screw down and all is well. Any suggestion/solution would be greatly appreciated. Oh, I have a 1981 480.

P.S. This is a terrific site for us Rickenbacker owners. Best on the web.

markthemd · Post by **markthemd** » Fri Dec 01, 2000 4:30 pm

My suggestion is to get some nuts that have the same thread...I can't remember the specific thread but I'll guess it to be 4/40

set your height and then remove the bridge.
very carefully install the nuts on the bottom of the bridge out of sight.Tighten them down ,reinstall,re tune and check the height.
Check that the legs are all touching the base plate.

That will do it .

To readjust ,just loosen the height screws and reset.
The nuts will loosen up .You should get an opened end wrench for the nuts ...will really make it easier to do .But I'm assuming that you have very little in the way of tools ....so this way it will work.

Try a hobby shop or a really good harware store for these nuts .The are not a 'Home Depot' type item.

ric480 · Post by **ric480** » Mon Dec 04, 2000 8:07 am

Thanks Mark. I'm kind of embarrased that I didn't figure this out for myself. I'll do this next time I change strings (I remove them all and give guitar a cleaning or occasional wax - carnauba only !). After owning "R" tailpieced Ricks for 27 years, I don't have any problems re-stringing. I'll let you know how I make out.

johnhall · Post by **johnhall** » Mon Dec 04, 2000 11:14 am

It's easier to just use a little LockTite Threadlocker 222 on the threads. That IS available at Home Depot or Lowe's, or most Ace hardware stores. LockTite 242 works also, just use less. You can easily readjust anytime but the screws won't get loose or rattle in between.

You won't need anything more than the factory supplied Allen key this way.

markthemd · Post by **markthemd** » Mon Dec 04, 2000 4:34 pm

I thought about the locktight idea ,but was concerned on the running of it and freezing the saddles.

I thought it might promote trouble so I gave a less disastrous method and one that could work.

Both will.
On the other hand you could retap the holes using a thread forming tap and change to either metric or go up one size .Then use a mill bit to re'drill'the plate and allow the screws to set into the plate tighter.

But hey,what ever works for you and is the least amount of headache.

"There is always more than one way to skin a cat!"

ric480 · Post by **ric480** » Wed Dec 06, 2000 8:20 am

Mark, John: Thanks for the ideas. I'm going to try the Locktite (very carefully, thanks to Mark for the heads up on not getting it on the bridge saddles)if I don't have the required nuts handy. I can't express how impressed I am that the CEO himself of Rickenbacker would take the time to answer my question. Talk about commitment to the customer -- and it's been almost twenty years since I bought my guitar!

johnhall · Post by **johnhall** » Wed Dec 06, 2000 8:15 pm

If you use the Loctite 222, there's no problem if you get this on the saddles or any other threaded part of the guitar. This is the non-permanent type that's great whenever you want nuts, bolts, or screws to keep from moving or rattling. But just as soon as you put reasonable force on the item, it breaks right free. The 242 is intended for 1/4" and above, so that and the other permanent types are a different story altogether when used on small threaded items.

ric480 · Post by **ric480** » Thu Dec 07, 2000 4:25 pm

Thanks again, John Hall. I'll be able to use the Loctite in other applications as well.