What is the URL of website which explains..
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
What is the URL of website which explains..
What is that website which explain how to adjust trussrods/intonation etc?
Not sure which site your talking about, but here's the link to the Rickenbacker manual.
http://www.rickenbacker.com/pdfs/manual.pdf
http://www.rickenbacker.com/pdfs/manual.pdf
"Knowledge is Power"
Try this Philip, its Joey Vasco's website, very useful and informative, just click on the maintenance tab.
http://www.joeysbassnotes.com/home.htm#top
http://www.joeysbassnotes.com/home.htm#top
"Knowledge is Power"
Ill put it my favourites websites folder. Thanks Scott!-
jwr2
Here's some info on adjusting the old style 4001 truss rods ...
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4001 Truss Rod Adjustment Notes:
The section of the Technical Pages provides information regarding the rewiring of the adjustment of 4001 model truss rods. It is important to note that for models made before 1984 that the truss rods were not designed to move the neck by tightening alone. For pre 1984 instruments, the neck should be moved into place manually and then the rods tightened to hold the neck in position. Failing to follow this procedure may pop the fretboard from the neck of your Rickenbacker.
From Michael Novak: alt.guitar.rickenbacker
Posted on March 1, 1999
Back off both nuts, then retighten just until you feel contact with the bearing plate. Tune to pitch. You need to flex the neck back towards straightness before tightening the rods. This can be done using simple gravity and (very little) muscle, or with a clamping setup.
The quick and dirty way is to put the neck across your lap. Hold down the first few frets with your left hand. Let the body hang in space. The body's weight will straighten the neck somewhat while you tighten the rods with your right hand.
The more accurate, but more slow and cumbersome way: You need two pieces of wood slim enough to sit on the fingerboard between your D + A strings. Pad the sides that will touch the fingerboard with cork. You need a reasonably stiff board as long as the neck. Last, you need one clamp with padded jaws that opens to at least 9-10". Place one small piece between the nut and first fret, the other around the 15th fret. Rest the long board on edge on these two pieces. Place your clamp at the 6th fret. Apply just enough clamp tension so that the whole affair will not fall apart. Get your straightedge. Tighten the clamp until you're satisfied (I never go for a totally straight neck). Snug up the rods. Release the clamp, and check your progress.
From RICK12DR: alt.guitar.rickenbacker
Posted on March 8, 1999
A little trick I do when I have had to remove truss rods[the old ones] is once I get them out, I use 4/0 steel wool to clean any rust and other **** off of them,polish them up a bit, and then I wax them up with Johnsons' paste floor wax and buff them with a clean towel or rag. This way, you kind of seal the metal against further rusting, as well as make the rods move easier.I also got myself a thread cutting die[a 10-32NF] and redo the threads to clean them up,as most efforts to adjust old rods ends up dinging the threads.I also put around 1/4" more thread length on the rod, too,and this always seems to help.I believe that die cutter size is stated correctly, but if in doubt, take one of the adjusting nuts to the hardware store with you to double check.
******************************************
4001 Truss Rod Adjustment Notes:
The section of the Technical Pages provides information regarding the rewiring of the adjustment of 4001 model truss rods. It is important to note that for models made before 1984 that the truss rods were not designed to move the neck by tightening alone. For pre 1984 instruments, the neck should be moved into place manually and then the rods tightened to hold the neck in position. Failing to follow this procedure may pop the fretboard from the neck of your Rickenbacker.
From Michael Novak: alt.guitar.rickenbacker
Posted on March 1, 1999
Back off both nuts, then retighten just until you feel contact with the bearing plate. Tune to pitch. You need to flex the neck back towards straightness before tightening the rods. This can be done using simple gravity and (very little) muscle, or with a clamping setup.
The quick and dirty way is to put the neck across your lap. Hold down the first few frets with your left hand. Let the body hang in space. The body's weight will straighten the neck somewhat while you tighten the rods with your right hand.
The more accurate, but more slow and cumbersome way: You need two pieces of wood slim enough to sit on the fingerboard between your D + A strings. Pad the sides that will touch the fingerboard with cork. You need a reasonably stiff board as long as the neck. Last, you need one clamp with padded jaws that opens to at least 9-10". Place one small piece between the nut and first fret, the other around the 15th fret. Rest the long board on edge on these two pieces. Place your clamp at the 6th fret. Apply just enough clamp tension so that the whole affair will not fall apart. Get your straightedge. Tighten the clamp until you're satisfied (I never go for a totally straight neck). Snug up the rods. Release the clamp, and check your progress.
From RICK12DR: alt.guitar.rickenbacker
Posted on March 8, 1999
A little trick I do when I have had to remove truss rods[the old ones] is once I get them out, I use 4/0 steel wool to clean any rust and other **** off of them,polish them up a bit, and then I wax them up with Johnsons' paste floor wax and buff them with a clean towel or rag. This way, you kind of seal the metal against further rusting, as well as make the rods move easier.I also got myself a thread cutting die[a 10-32NF] and redo the threads to clean them up,as most efforts to adjust old rods ends up dinging the threads.I also put around 1/4" more thread length on the rod, too,and this always seems to help.I believe that die cutter size is stated correctly, but if in doubt, take one of the adjusting nuts to the hardware store with you to double check.
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rickenbrother
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 13222
- Joined: Sun May 26, 2002 5:00 am
"For pre 1984 instruments, the neck should be moved into place manually and then the rods tightened to hold the neck in position."
I think I need this to be clarified. Does this mean with the nuts loose, someone has to put pressure on the neck, to bend opposite the bow, and then tighten the nuts up? With or without the strings on and/or tuned up?
I think I need this to be clarified. Does this mean with the nuts loose, someone has to put pressure on the neck, to bend opposite the bow, and then tighten the nuts up? With or without the strings on and/or tuned up?
-
rickenbrother
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 13222
- Joined: Sun May 26, 2002 5:00 am
Robert, I think a lot has to do with the experience of the person doing the adjustment. The best way to do the procedure is to have the neck clamped. Not everyone has a workbench that they can clamp the body of the bass to. Then yes, you can back off the truss rod adjustment nuts before making your adjustment. I'm hoping to have some pics of the neck clamped and add to the description of the procedure in the coming week.
As far as if the strings should be loose or not, I've never been able to adjust the rods with A and D strings to tension, they are just in the way.
It might take more than one try to get the neck exactly the way you like it. Patience and carefully making the adjustments without rushing is very important. When you can't tighten the nuts anymore with just the strength in your hand, it's time to stop. If you use the strength of your arm, there's a good chance you'll break the rod. That goes for any truss rod, not just a RIC truss rod.
As far as if the strings should be loose or not, I've never been able to adjust the rods with A and D strings to tension, they are just in the way.
It might take more than one try to get the neck exactly the way you like it. Patience and carefully making the adjustments without rushing is very important. When you can't tighten the nuts anymore with just the strength in your hand, it's time to stop. If you use the strength of your arm, there's a good chance you'll break the rod. That goes for any truss rod, not just a RIC truss rod.
JETGLO should officially be renamed JETGLO ROCKS! 
This is done tuned to pitch with the nuts at whatever tension they happen to be. The idea is to take the load off of the rods by gently flexing the neck backward. This allows the rods to move without them having to push against the backside of the fingerboard. This is key. Ok, with the rods unloaded, turn the nuts about 1/4 turn then release the neck. Retune and check the relief. Some necks require some time to adjust. For most Ricks, the whole process should only take a few minutes. It could take a couple of days though to get a stubborn neck to flatten out properly. The important concept to remember here is that the old style rods do NOT move the neck, they merely hold it in place.