Repair finish - or not?

harvey49 · Post by **harvey49** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:19 pm

Having kept a backup of info presented here by Paul on repairing scratches, I'm wondering whether to apply this new found knowledge to a problem I've encountered.

Having recently bought another guitar, I want to fully strip off the hardware and give it a good polish up as it desperately needs it; however I've encountered a problem!

Near the pickup selector switch there's a small finish crack. On removing the locking nut that secures the pickup switch and a rubber grommet, a small area under the grommet has totally removed the finish, back to the timber. (this is now stuck to the back of the grommet!)

Seeing that I'll need to use the ScratchX to remove swirl marks before applying the Zymol, I'm concerned about what effect getting ScratchX into bare timber will have. Have read in earlier posts that this is not good for the timber or the finish around where it has been removed.

What would you suggest, apply several layers of clear coat nail polish to build up and seal the finish, (this will be hidden by the rubber grommet when the pickup selector switch is refitted) Would you also suggest scraping off the finish stuck to the rubber grommet or leave it there?

I will hold off with the clean up until I hear suggestions. Thanks in anticipation

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:51 pm

Very easy, Ron. But first take a deep breath and have a beeyah.

Pick up some gap-filling super glue (not the water-thin, runny stuff, and not the gel, either,; the stuff that has some viscosity to it. Apply a couple of drops to the bare wood--however much it takes to seal the wood and possibly creep under the edge of the varnish and make a nice seal once it dries. Don't get sloppy with it, though. You can use a matchstick to smear it around a bit.

Keep it away from the area that the grommet doesn't cover, and leave it to dry for a few hours to overnight if necessary (in the Oz summer, a few hours should be more than enough.

If it fogs the guitar a bit around the area where you applied it, just hit it with some Scratch-X after it dries. Then you're good to go with the Zymol.

There. All better...

harvey49 · Post by **harvey49** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 2:18 pm

What - only one beeyah Paul?

Once again thanks for the tip, knew I could count on you following up.

Before the application of the gap filling super glue, would you recommend using naptha, (lighter fluid as I now know it! - I'm learning all the time!) on the bare area?

You didn't comment on removing the finish attached to the grommet. Would you do so and give a clean in naptha also before refitting?

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 2:37 pm

No cleaning, just seal it with the super glue. I'm assuming that this area is not visible once the grommet is in place.

Yes, you can clean the paint off the grommet. use a razor blade or an Exacto knife.

Have another beeyah. You deserve it.

harvey49 · Post by **harvey49** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 2:43 pm

mmmmm beeeer, (to quote Homer)

Thanks Paul have already sent an email off to 3M Aust to see if the product is available and where to get it, then it's full steam ahead, but no beer until the jobs done!!

harvey49 · Post by **harvey49** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 1:58 pm

Not getting very far in the gap filling super glue department Paul.

Sent an email off to 3M Aust after your post, no reply so I've just rang them, they're not sure what I'm after as I mentioned that I didn't want a gell or a product that was too viscous.

They said if I could get a product name and number they may be able to help; hence my reserecting this thread.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 3:46 pm

Ron, I have had good results with 3M CA-5 Super Glue.

If you just have this one small area to touch up, you might want to visit a hobby shop near your home and see what types of gap-filler super glues they sell. I've done well by Satellite City and Zap-A-Gap-CA. These are two American brands, but they may be distributed there.

It gets a bit pickier when you need a super glue to fill finish gaps that can be sanded and polished, but you're OK with the stuff above or its equivalent.

harvey49 · Post by **harvey49** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 7:02 pm

Thanks Paul - will ring them this time as emails seem a waste of time to this mob

harvey49 · Post by **harvey49** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 6:13 pm

Well Paul here in the land of "nothing" I've had nothing but problems. 3M Aust, don't, won't and are not interested in obtaining that CA-5 product.

No luck with Satellite City, however have found an outlet way over woop woops. (about 1000 miles the other side of the Black Stump), that have the Green label Zap a Gap. There have been several other brands I've found through "Googling" but not keen to use those on my guitar as they did not come in your initial recommendations.

So are the results from use of Zap a Gap likely to be as good as the 3M product?

Also can I ask why you use Windex as a "wetter" for the #1500 wet & dry paper. Do you use it neat or dilute it, and out here there are a couple of different types, (see occassionally we get a choice!!!), is it the one with ammonia in it, or without?

Thanks in anticipation

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:10 pm

Sounds like OZ is a bigger version of SF...

I ran a design and prototyping business in Los Angeles and later in Orange County (Newport Beach) CA for almost 20 years. Materials, hardware, glues, art supplies were plentiful, easily available nearby, delivery was quick and cheerful, and sales folk went out of their way to accommodate me. Great place to do business.

My first year running a design/prototyping facility in SF was a real wakeup call. SF is a banking and tourist city that is not very big on industry, although it was a minor contender in times past. I've ended up going to LA for most of my supplies, and supplies that I do manage to source here come with the disadvantages of sales clerks with attitude and unreliable mailing and delivery schedules. I myself used to be able to procure Zap-A-Gap in any one of a dozen locations in The Orange. Here in SF there are three hobby shops and two are going out of business as I write this. Video games, I guess.

So I know your pain. The Zap-A-Gap is as good as the 3M.

Re: Windex for sanding. This is one of my formerly-best-kept secrets. It serves as a lubricant. You can use the ammonia one, cut 50% with water. Pour a few ounces into a teacup (OK, beeyah mug) and cut a few 2" square pieces of the #1500 paper. Drop them into said mug and let soak overnight. They'll stay clean and sharp longer this way. That's another secret revealed.

harvey49 · Post by **harvey49** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:34 pm

Ooops get I let the cat out of the bag - that's another tip that I guess won't make it to your book eh Paul - but we appreciate that don't we forumites!!

I don't think I'll put the wet & dry and Windex, into any receptacle I drink beer out of. I reckon it would leave a shocking after taste, but thanks once again for your help on this issue.

I remember as a first year apprentice I decided to take to the tea pot at work and shine it up inside and out; nearly got the sack over it. The tradesmen reckon their tea tasted like soap for weeks after. They threatened that some evil deed would befall me should I ever be silly enough to do something like that again! That sort of made me a little gun shy about cleaning things you drink out of after that.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:43 pm

This is precisely why I ban food and drink from my student workshops...a student once picked up a cup of lacquer thinner that some other (student) numnutz had left lying on a work table. He took a sip...

harvey49 · Post by **harvey49** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:58 pm

As a trade teacher until I retired, I also banned cans of drink out in the workshop, but not for the reasons you mentioned Paul, my little darling apprentices used to occasionally top up unguarded cans, of unpopular people in the group, with bodily fluids. Which then led to fisticuffs. Ah the life of a trade teacher!