Protecting Autographed Guitar

[firstbassman]

Paul, you might remember seeing in another Topic, that I got one of my 360s autographed by Paul Kantner, near the lower horn. I intentionally did not have him sign on the pickguard so that it wouldn’t scratch off when I played. I think the spot I chose is pretty safe but was also thinking about protecting it in some way.
A million years ago, when I was an art student we sometimes would use a Krylon spray over artwork to protect it. Can I use that? What would it do to the guitar’s finish? Can you recommend something better? Thanks!

[jingle_jangle]

The ones that look simplest on the surface (pun intended) are the most difficult.

Krylon Crystal Clear won't do much to protect the signature (despite what the can might say) on such a glossy surface. And, it will kill the gloss, because it's not as shiny as the CV on the guitar. I assume he used a Sharpie to sign it? If so, Krylon will also partially dissolve the Sharpie, giving it a purplish halo around the edges. If you do decide to use the Krylon, fog it on in very light coats, and it won't hurt the Sharpie.

If it is largely on a flat area of the guitar, and does not wrap over the curved area, you could use a piece of mylar self-adhesive laminating material, which you can get at Staples. Cut it to fit exactly around the signature with maybe 1/4" to spare all around and no sharp corners (they peel). Spray a bit of Windex over the signature. Lay the adhesive material over the Windexed signature, get it positioned exactly, and rub down, working the bubbles out from the center to the edges. Blot up excess Windex with a soft cloth. When it's dry, wipe it carefully to shine it all up.

A word of warning: If the signature was done with water-soluble marker (EXPO), the Windex will wash the signature away.

The Mylar does not go around compound curves, as it doesn't stretch.

[firstbassman]

Paul, as always, you are the man.
Yes, it was a Sharpie-like permanent marker and wholly on a flat surface.
I will do as you say.
Just out of curiosity, what does spraying with Windex accomplish?
And let the Windex dry or apply the mylar while the surface is still wet?
Will it stick?
Thanks!!!

[jingle_jangle]

Mark,

The Windex thing is an old window-tinting trick. It provides a slick wet film so you can position the Mylar and then squeeze out all the air bubbles. As you press down more and more (working from the center out to the edges), the Windex gets pushed out and the adhesive on the Mylar finally grabs. Presto! No air bubbles. Wrap a soft cotton cloth around your finger and use it to squeegee out the air and Windex.

Without the Windex, the adhesive grabs immediately, traps air, and does not give you a chance to slide the Mylar around to get it positioned perfectly.

[firstbassman]

Ahhh, got it.
Thanks again!

[scoobster28]

what about signatures signed with a sharpie on a Rickenbacker pickguard? I have a McGuinn signed pickguard (not the LE one, of course) and would like it preserved. Any ideas Paul?

[jingle_jangle]

I'd use the same stuff and the same method, Scoob, but I'd cover the whole guard with it. That way you couldn't see the seam. Mylar is optically transparent.

[scoobster28]

really....hum. Now I am scared that I will ruin it. Thank you for your help, though.

[loverickbass]

Mark Arnquist made me a plexi type cover to go over mine.

Cole

[loverickbass]

I think it mite be Mylar.

Cole

[britye]

I used to use soapy water to apply those wood grain decals to simulate a wood panel vehicle worked quite well.