Inlays
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
Inlays
This post is prompted by one I saw in another thread. I can't remember precisely which thread it was but it showed a stripped down neck with the triangular fretboard inlays removed (one of the Curmudge's I think). I was struck by how deep the inlays were. My question is this - what is the typical depth of a Rick triangular inlay on the fretboard? How does this compare to other guitars with more substantial inlays (i.e., other than just a dot)? Does this large, deep inlay affect the neck in any way - positively or negatively?
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jingle_jangle
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Well, I guess since the pictures were in my thread "Two Newbies", I'll tell you what I know.
The most recent type of triangular inlays (the router-cut ones) are cut into the fretboard on a CNC woodworking center before the neck or fretboard is profiled (radiused and shaped). Then the pearlescent liquid is poured into the triangular voids, overflowing slightly to allow the bubbles to rise beyond the trim zone and also to allow for shrinkage. The material is polyester resin with a pearlescent toner mixed into it.
Following the hardening of the resin, the fretboard is profiled and sanded to the proper radius. At this point, the inserts at the center are roughly .125" in depth. They're slightly less thick at both edges, as they are flat-bottomed.
Strength? It's strong, as the board itself is typically more that .250" thick before profiling, and the inlays only go about 1/2 the way through. The polyester adheres to the wood very well, and becomes, in effect, a monolithic structure with the fretboard, which is, of course, glued to the neck proper.
"Other" guitars (Les Pauls, for example) have inlays of genuine MOP, which is usually supplied in a thickness of .050", set into routs cut .050" deep, and filled in with tinted epoxy. Usually, however, the fretboards themselves are a good deal thinner than those on a Rick. Horses for courses, but no question that Ricks have very responsive and flexible necks.
The most recent type of triangular inlays (the router-cut ones) are cut into the fretboard on a CNC woodworking center before the neck or fretboard is profiled (radiused and shaped). Then the pearlescent liquid is poured into the triangular voids, overflowing slightly to allow the bubbles to rise beyond the trim zone and also to allow for shrinkage. The material is polyester resin with a pearlescent toner mixed into it.
Following the hardening of the resin, the fretboard is profiled and sanded to the proper radius. At this point, the inserts at the center are roughly .125" in depth. They're slightly less thick at both edges, as they are flat-bottomed.
Strength? It's strong, as the board itself is typically more that .250" thick before profiling, and the inlays only go about 1/2 the way through. The polyester adheres to the wood very well, and becomes, in effect, a monolithic structure with the fretboard, which is, of course, glued to the neck proper.
"Other" guitars (Les Pauls, for example) have inlays of genuine MOP, which is usually supplied in a thickness of .050", set into routs cut .050" deep, and filled in with tinted epoxy. Usually, however, the fretboards themselves are a good deal thinner than those on a Rick. Horses for courses, but no question that Ricks have very responsive and flexible necks.
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