Before i got my one and only Ricky in december ( a White 1991 4003), i toyed with the idea of finding one on ebay. Basically i am in the UK and Rickenbackers are hard to find - not to mention expensive (i found one in the end). On ebay i saw a fireglo 1978 4001, it looked great, had a really nice vibe, and ending selling for $500.
However, i guess it went for 500 due to its once damaged neck. On the back of the neck, near the 3rd fret was a large crack/scar. The seller said it had been properly repaired several yrs ago, and the excellent photos backed this up, however i didnt go for it as i didnt think it was worth the risk.
If i look for a another Ricky on ebay in the future- what should i be weary of? A late 70's 4001 appeals to me the most
Things to look out for when buying on Ebay
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
Things to look out for when buying on Ebay
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docbass
Here's a short list regarding sellers: avoid folks with sunglasses, zero feedback, more than a couple negative feedbacks, no/poor pictures, lame or very short descriptions of the bass, and sellers who: don't answer your email questions about the bass, claim they don't know anything about the bass or are selling it for a friend or relative. I prefer buying from the owner or an eBay regular/merchant. I just don't buy from these other folks, it's too risky. I also don't trust folks who only want a money order or won't accept escrow when I'm willing to pay the escrow fees. Maybe it's me, but at least Paypal folks have been verified by Paypal for you! Also, hang out at this forum since most of the folks here check out eBay routinely and typically annouce a forgery or cheater here for all to see. Right guys?
As for the bass, you want as many pics as you can get. If there are only a few on the ad, I'd write them and ask for more. If their description is short, I'd email them and ask the following: are there ANY cracks, scratches, dings, gouges, in the finish or down to the wood? fractures, repairs? Does the truss rod work? Is the neck straight? Not excessively bowed or twisted in any form? Do all of the electronics work? Are the frets worn/have grooves in them from the strings? Is everything original? If not, what is it? You can get more detailed in your questions, but these are the basics for sure.
If I'm going after something seriously, I'll write the seller and ask a batch of these questions and their answers are important. I also like buying from eBay regulars who guarantee the bass will match their description faithfully. I also NEVER leave feedback for a seller until I have the item in hand and have used it for a couple days. Then, if I'm satisfied, I'll post something for them. Saving that to the end is a good lever should you experience problems.
Good luck!! I've bought 4 basses on eBay and all have worked out fine. Can't say the same for some car parts I got!!!!!
As for the bass, you want as many pics as you can get. If there are only a few on the ad, I'd write them and ask for more. If their description is short, I'd email them and ask the following: are there ANY cracks, scratches, dings, gouges, in the finish or down to the wood? fractures, repairs? Does the truss rod work? Is the neck straight? Not excessively bowed or twisted in any form? Do all of the electronics work? Are the frets worn/have grooves in them from the strings? Is everything original? If not, what is it? You can get more detailed in your questions, but these are the basics for sure.
If I'm going after something seriously, I'll write the seller and ask a batch of these questions and their answers are important. I also like buying from eBay regulars who guarantee the bass will match their description faithfully. I also NEVER leave feedback for a seller until I have the item in hand and have used it for a couple days. Then, if I'm satisfied, I'll post something for them. Saving that to the end is a good lever should you experience problems.
Good luck!! I've bought 4 basses on eBay and all have worked out fine. Can't say the same for some car parts I got!!!!!
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jwr2
i know how ebay works/ what to look out for with regards to looking at sellers feedback etc- I am really after advice on what problems old ricks may have/ what to look out for.
I think i read somewhere on here that late 70's ones can be a bit problematic
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jwr2
The 1970's 4001's have a strange dual truss rod ... If you adjust it wrong you can pop off the fret board ... the newer 4003's adjust very easily.
also some of these old basses have a rusted ric-o-sound that needs fixing ... easily fixed with a couple of parts and a solder gun.
there is the tailpiece pull-up problem ... easily fixed with 2 screws ...
also I prefer to remove the .0047 capaciter so the bridge pickup has bass response.
overall the 70's 4001's are excellent basses as long as they haven't been abused.
also some of these old basses have a rusted ric-o-sound that needs fixing ... easily fixed with a couple of parts and a solder gun.
there is the tailpiece pull-up problem ... easily fixed with 2 screws ...
also I prefer to remove the .0047 capaciter so the bridge pickup has bass response.
overall the 70's 4001's are excellent basses as long as they haven't been abused.
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docbass
on the whole, are 70's ricks often really problematic? I have played a couple in second hand guitar stores, they were all great. And expensive at about £1300 ($1500?) for an old 4001.
I am pretty handy with repairs and adjustments, wiring and part replacing etc
But its stuff like dodgy necks that i of course dont wanna go near
I am pretty handy with repairs and adjustments, wiring and part replacing etc
But its stuff like dodgy necks that i of course dont wanna go near
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I agree with Jeff that work always needs to be done. My bass was from a well known london dealer, and its amazing, tho needed a lot of cleaning and adjusting.
It had:
•A badly warped tailpiece ( some of you probably know about this from my bent tailpiece thread) - a new ones on its way.
•Truss rods too tight - action overly -low
•Bridge on back to front(?) and set overly- low
•Mute rusted up, foam not stuck to metal bar
•Treble pickup wobbling on base- ground wire needed resoldering
•very dirty switch
and this bass aint even that old, or off ebay!
It had:
•A badly warped tailpiece ( some of you probably know about this from my bent tailpiece thread) - a new ones on its way.
•Truss rods too tight - action overly -low
•Bridge on back to front(?) and set overly- low
•Mute rusted up, foam not stuck to metal bar
•Treble pickup wobbling on base- ground wire needed resoldering
•very dirty switch
and this bass aint even that old, or off ebay!
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Yeah Ricks are expensive, its a case of get what you can when you see it. My 91 4003 was £900 used. which is a great deal here.
My MIM P bass was £360 new last year, if i went to the states i guess it would be some what cheaper.
A brand new 4003 is £1400 here - and thats when you can find them.
My MIM P bass was £360 new last year, if i went to the states i guess it would be some what cheaper.
A brand new 4003 is £1400 here - and thats when you can find them.
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Over here, Rickenbackers are NOT COMMON!
Hardly anyone ones sells them, and no bands on the scene play them. I have my white 4003, and funnily enough, my band mate has been kinda lent a 1991 330 in midblue. We seem to be the only people performing with Ricks in london!!!!!
Hardly anyone ones sells them, and no bands on the scene play them. I have my white 4003, and funnily enough, my band mate has been kinda lent a 1991 330 in midblue. We seem to be the only people performing with Ricks in london!!!!!
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I agree with Jeff, the main problems with '70's Rics are the necks and truss rod system, you have to be careful what kind of strings you put on them. They were designed for light gauge flatwound strings, and the necks (most) won't take a lot of tension. I have owned several and was putting Fender med. light flats on them (very high tension strings) until I realized that the necks were bending where they meet the bodies and that is hard to fix if it is left to go on for too long. The truss rods don't really do much down there. Also I like to bypass the .0047 cap myself for the extra bottom you get from the treble pickup. As with all of the old Ric's they are all different, try to find one that has been well cared for it will be easier to restore if need be. On Ebay ask many questions, make sure that the seller is communicative and open. And Owen I sold a just about brand new Midnight Blue 4003 to a man in London (I think London anyway) a few months ago, it was a beautiful bass. Maybe you'll see it, I don't know how much he plays out though. He wanted the cover on, so if you see a brand new blue 4003 with cover, it's probably the one I sold, his name is Kevin.
Funny you mention the necks on the old basses. Every old Rick 4001 i have seen and or picked up had standard guage roundwounds on, and all played amazingly - the neck was perfect.
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dano
Hey Owen,
I have used Rotosound roundwound 45-105 strings since I've owned this bass (I am the 2nd owner). I guess I was lucky that the original owner took great care of it. I'm almost certain the original owner used this gauge string all along or a good portion of it's life! With older necks it's recommended to replace the strings one at a time as opposed to removing all the strings and replacing at the same time. These necks were designed to have constant tension. Usually if your bass sits unused for a long amount of time people in general recommend to take the tension off the strings. Not the case with older Rics. The downside is that these strings cause extreme fret wear. My frets have been removed (professionally) and thats the way it remains to this day. Does the term fretlines sound familiar?
I have used Rotosound roundwound 45-105 strings since I've owned this bass (I am the 2nd owner). I guess I was lucky that the original owner took great care of it. I'm almost certain the original owner used this gauge string all along or a good portion of it's life! With older necks it's recommended to replace the strings one at a time as opposed to removing all the strings and replacing at the same time. These necks were designed to have constant tension. Usually if your bass sits unused for a long amount of time people in general recommend to take the tension off the strings. Not the case with older Rics. The downside is that these strings cause extreme fret wear. My frets have been removed (professionally) and thats the way it remains to this day. Does the term fretlines sound familiar?
