Trouble installing mute pad assembly on my 4003

squirefan01 · Post by **squirefan01** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 6:13 am

My '87 4003 was missing the mute assembly in the bridge when I got it. I ordered the parts from Ric, and installed it. The shape of the pad did not exactly match the curvature of the strings across the neck, so it would not mute the strings evenly. It first muted the A & D strings.

I have been a little nervous about loosening the strings to remove the bridge and play around with the mute assembly to try to get this right, but I have now removed and replaced the bridge assembly 3 times, bending the mute assembly a little each time. Right now I have the A-D-G strings muting OK but can't even get the pad high enough to mute the E string. I do have the action higher on the E-side to avoid buzzing due to fret wear, but I would think that I'd also have a problem with the A not getting muted in that case.

I'm sure that I can keep playing with this and get the mute bar bent perfectly eventually, but it just seems like I'm doing something wrong here.

Do any of you have experience in this area? Maybe a few good tips would help (other than "just pull the mute pad back out and forget about it").

Also, should I be worried about releasing the tension from the neck so often? I am making these changes quickly and getting everything back in place and in tune asap.

Thanks

rickfan60 · Post by **rickfan60** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 7:54 am

Most of the complaints I have heard about the mute are that it does not provide even dampening. That and some mutes are very difficult to operate. I have noticed both problems. Newer basses have smoother mute adjusters that actually turn. As for the mute itself, some players change the shape of the foam a bit to make up for inaccuracies in the curve and the range of string angles. You will notice that the mute becomes more "effective" as you play up the neck. As the string angle flattens the strings press harder into the mute foam increasing the muting effect. A desirable amount of muting on the open strings often means excessive muting higher up. If this bothers you, reshaping your mute foam may help even it out a bit.

Loading and unloading the neck a few times should not cause you any trouble at all. If you are going to leave the strings off for more than a day or so, you might want to loosen the rods. It is not an absolute requirement though.

doctorwho · Post by **doctorwho** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 8:42 am

Greg, I have some single-side adhesive foam that makes an adequate replacement mute pad (see the thread ../655/98514.html"#FFEECC">

squirefan01 · Post by **squirefan01** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 9:25 am

Thanks.

The first time I straightened the mute bar, the tabs at the end where the screws go ended up at a bad angle, so the thumbscrews were very hard to turn. I then took it all apart again and just bent the ends of the bar to get the screws aligned better (if they're aligned right the screws turn very easily). Very picky area to work with. To get the bar at the right angle for the strings and the ends at the perfect angle for the thumbscrews takes some patience.

I did order a bunch of extra mute pads from Ric. Gary, I'll play around with it a little more, then maybe take you up on your offer.

I have been testing it with open strings. I'll have to go back and see what the difference is as I play up the neck.

rictified · Post by **rictified** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 5:50 pm

None of mine ever fit the curvature exactly until I tighten them good. Having the E higher exacerbates the problem. I still use mine occasionally and it sounds pretty good, I just used it Sunday as a matter of fact. I just tighten it enough to make sure both the E and the G are muted open and leave it. I have cut the width of the mute in half on a couple of mine to cut down the damping. It sounds much better in a live situation than in your bedroom. Approximates an upright fairly well, or at least the decay rate.