Mark: I recently acquired a 1966 360-12MG, upon which someone in their craziest moment decided to brush come type of clear coating:
1) on the fingerboard
2) on one quarter of the body (from the low E bass string to the edge of the body......upper bout and bass horn)
The overcoat is uneven with thick brush marks.
The rest of the finish (complete back of guitar and neck plush everything below the low E string is good original finish.
Is there a way to correct/remove this mess without refinishing, etc.
How to fix amatuer finish overcoat??
Moderator: jingle_jangle
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325-at-2pm
- Veteran RRF member
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2000 1:11 am
I don't know what to tell you except that with out seeing it it's hard to give you the ultimate answer.
I'm sorry I have not answered this sooner.
I must assume you have a knowledge of sanding ,I would do this .
You can buy individual sheets of wet/dry sand paper at most automotive paint supplier outlets.
It could take a couple of different grits ,but this is what I would try .
Get some 1500 grit and some 800 grit.You might get some 500 but lets assume that you won't need it.
Take the sheet and cut it into 5ths .Take one of those pieces and fold it into thirds.
Get some liquid detergent ,put a few drops into a bowl and some warm water.
Sand with the frets on this fine finish till level.
Watch yourself as you could go thru the clear quickly.
keep a towel handy to remove the wetness periodically .when the whole surface is dull and level ,switch to the 1500 grit paper .this is only to remove the other sanding scratches and then polish ou the fretboard .
Sounds easier than it is .I almost lost my job at the Rick plant in 1972 several time for sanding thru Black finishes and clear finishes.
Bill really chewed me out and worked with me to get the technique correct .I finally got it .But it did screw up several basses.
Let me know .
I'm sorry I have not answered this sooner.
I must assume you have a knowledge of sanding ,I would do this .
You can buy individual sheets of wet/dry sand paper at most automotive paint supplier outlets.
It could take a couple of different grits ,but this is what I would try .
Get some 1500 grit and some 800 grit.You might get some 500 but lets assume that you won't need it.
Take the sheet and cut it into 5ths .Take one of those pieces and fold it into thirds.
Get some liquid detergent ,put a few drops into a bowl and some warm water.
Sand with the frets on this fine finish till level.
Watch yourself as you could go thru the clear quickly.
keep a towel handy to remove the wetness periodically .when the whole surface is dull and level ,switch to the 1500 grit paper .this is only to remove the other sanding scratches and then polish ou the fretboard .
Sounds easier than it is .I almost lost my job at the Rick plant in 1972 several time for sanding thru Black finishes and clear finishes.
Bill really chewed me out and worked with me to get the technique correct .I finally got it .But it did screw up several basses.
Let me know .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
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325-at-2pm
- Veteran RRF member
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2000 1:11 am
If the whole guitar was 'finished' this way ,then I would probably wet sand the whole guitar and thenpolish it/buff it out.
Sanding with a block it a good idea to remove the high spots ,but you will need to sand with hands for all the sides and stay away from the corners and edges .Paint does not stick to them the way it does to a flat surface.
You will have to sand the round over on the face but don't go nuts ...There is very little material there and could give you a bigger problem.The headstock and neck are all hand sanding .Take the block to the face and back of the headstock to remove anty lumps or ridges.Then finish with your hand.
There are two schools of thought to folding sandpaper .
1- fold a section into thirds .This grabs the paper and won't tear it up as you use it .
2 - the old take the sheet and fold it into quarters .I personally don't use this as it seems to waste the paper and I spend more time refolding it looking for a new section .AND...The corners wear out before I'm thru ,leaving me with a new ...smaller section to deal with .So I cut my sheet stock into quarters ,length wise .That has always worked and both Bill Myers and Hideo Kamomoto showed this to me .I continue to follow their wisdom.
In answer to your last question ...with sandpaper this fine it does not matter which direction you sand in .
Sanding with a block it a good idea to remove the high spots ,but you will need to sand with hands for all the sides and stay away from the corners and edges .Paint does not stick to them the way it does to a flat surface.
You will have to sand the round over on the face but don't go nuts ...There is very little material there and could give you a bigger problem.The headstock and neck are all hand sanding .Take the block to the face and back of the headstock to remove anty lumps or ridges.Then finish with your hand.
There are two schools of thought to folding sandpaper .
1- fold a section into thirds .This grabs the paper and won't tear it up as you use it .
2 - the old take the sheet and fold it into quarters .I personally don't use this as it seems to waste the paper and I spend more time refolding it looking for a new section .AND...The corners wear out before I'm thru ,leaving me with a new ...smaller section to deal with .So I cut my sheet stock into quarters ,length wise .That has always worked and both Bill Myers and Hideo Kamomoto showed this to me .I continue to follow their wisdom.
In answer to your last question ...with sandpaper this fine it does not matter which direction you sand in .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
