This stuff really works - WOW!!

Exceptional restoration is in the details

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melibreits
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Post by melibreits »

COOL pic, Nick!
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bitzerguy
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Post by bitzerguy »

Cool pic, cool guitar, and cool Curmudge treatment Nick.

...Dean
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stuart
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Post by stuart »

Well, I don't have a Rickenbacker yet, but I'm going to clean up my Strat and Gretsch Country Gent with this stuff in the near future Image.

Paul, you mentioned that this stuff works well on chrome, but Country Gents have that gold plated nickel chrome or whatever it is, so I take it that's a no-no?
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jingle_jangle
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Post by jingle_jangle »

The gold on Gretsches--and other guitars, too--is microscopically thin. A soft damp flannel is all I'd use on these.

If you get any perspiration on a Gretsch's gold plating wipe it off immediately as above. If you don't, the gold will be gone within months.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
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stuart
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Post by stuart »

Thank you sir, much appreciated. This morning was the first I'd ever heard/read about your Scratch-X/Zymol technique, and I spent a good hour looking at a few threads here. It's all great information, and the pictures people are posting just blow me away.

Thanks again! I'm going to pick up all the necessary ingredients tomorrow.
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jnbass
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Post by jnbass »

better buy some Zymol stock...
Buy it before someone else does
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dswp
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Post by dswp »

I was hesitant on using Paul’s treatment on a 30+ year old (Az Blue) finish.

No problems. Except for the 4 hours it took me to do it.

Good thing it was way to hot to go out today.


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jingle_jangle
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Post by jingle_jangle »

Looks killer, Dave!

The only cautions I would make concerning older instruments are as follows:

Any cracking or checking in the older finish stands a good chance of filling with Scratch-X or wax and becoming more obvious. So, don't load up the finish in this case...work the materials well into the cloth so that little of the liquid stuff is transferred onto the guitar. Let it stay in the cloth, where it can work just as well.

Second, if your guitar or bass is a matte or oiled finish, don't use this treatment. For matte factory finishes, I'd recommend Kleenmaster "Brillianize" to remove fingerprints and protect the surface.

For oiled finishes, Watco's Danish Oil Finish is my favorite. It's a blend of oils and dryers that is a one-step way to restore the depth while simultaneously protecting.

For French polished finishes, you're on your own. Standard practice is to re-polish using shellac and a pad, but this is a skilled operation that should be left to a finisher. There is nothing in either Scratch-X or Zymol which would harm a French-polished surface, though.

If you have a '29 Gibson mandolin or a '48 Martin or some other really valuable antique, I'd contact the manufacturer for help. My conscience would bother me if I didn't offer this advice!
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
milo
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Post by milo »

This reminded me that I have to go to the auto parts store today. I've used Zymol wax, how well does their leather conditioner work? Will it darken a light gray leather interior?
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fran4001
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Post by fran4001 »

Just did my '78 4001 JetGlo, which was already almost mint. Now, well, words don't describe it! And I never would have found this treatment were it not for you folks here. thanks Paul!
Apr. '73 4001JG, Jun. '73 4001MG, Feb. '75 4001 WBT, Feb. '00 4001CS
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ozover50
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Post by ozover50 »

My first treatment took me about 4 hours too, Dave.... and it was only a single neck job!

I'm down to about 2 hours these days.
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leftybass
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Post by leftybass »

Anyone treated a Mapleglo finish yet?
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Post by milo »

It's next on my to-do list. As soon as I finish cutting the nut for it.
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jingle_jangle
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Post by jingle_jangle »

Leather treatments, if they're going to do any good, must penetrate the leather. In doing so, they will darken it. My old RR had Connolly hides, and I religiously used Connolly Hide treatment, which is pure lanolin with some stabilizers...The car had medium gray leather and it was a shade darker when I finished doing it the first time.

Most conditioners will warn against using them on very light leathers for this reason.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
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johnallg
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Post by johnallg »

Leftybass - look for my pics and posts from April 27th for MG treatment.
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