How to clean the black nylon tapewound strings?

paul_yan · Post by **paul_yan** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 3:04 pm

Hello gang,

I put the (almost) black RIC nylon tapewound strings on my '72 4001 fretless and love the sound, look and feel. This is however my 1st set of nylon tapewounds and I don't really have a clue how to clean them after playing.
For the time being, I only clean them with clean clothes.

I clean the conventional rounds and flats with naphta.

Would anyone please enlighten me?
Thanks in advance.

dave4004 · Post by **dave4004** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 3:35 pm

I have Labella tapewounds on my Gibson EB-0L, the last set lasted five years before losing intonation, the current set has been on two years. I've never used anything but a dry cloth. AFAIK the nylon isn't permeable so perspiration isn't getting to the metal.

rictified · Post by **rictified** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 3:56 pm

Nice picture Paul, makes me long for a yellow colored Ric, maybe something a little darker than the Chris Squire bass, a real yellow, that would be nice wouldn't it?
Your 72 looks like a nice bass in very nice shape. I left my digital camera in Peru, I'll have to get another one so I can post a photo of my basses. And coincidently, I had a set of tapewound Rotos lying around and put them on my FL yesterday, These are the old huge diameter strings though, the E is something like .135, I'm not going to leave them on, they are floppy also, but sound good.
I just ordered a set of Pyramids, I want to check those out.

basshawk · Post by **basshawk** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 4:00 pm

I had those strings on my '75 4001 years ago and really liked them. I was just recently using them on my 4000 and it developed a twist in the neck. The first shop I took it to the luthier told me the twist was caused by the strings because they were not putting enough pressure on the neck to hold it straight. I did put reguler flats on it and it did straighten it out some. However, this place deals mostly with F*****s and when they went to tighten the trusses, they told me they were stripped and could no longer be tightened. The second place I took the bass (he does work on and sell Ricks), he was able to tighten the trusses with no problem. There is still a very slight twist in it, but there are no "buzz spots" and no dead spots. So it really is hard to tell if the nylons did indeed cause the twist or if it had just been from going too long between setups. I know I really like playing with those strings though. As far as what to clean them with, sorry I can't help there as I think I just wiped them with a cloth like you are doing now.

jwr2 · Post by **jwr2** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 5:38 pm

I had a set of those tape wound strings on my 1968 4001 when I bought it in 1973 ... the strings were really old ... under the tape winding the strings were rusted ...

paul_yan · Post by **paul_yan** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 6:03 pm

Thanks to all for your inputs, Dave, Bob, Randy and Jeff.

Bob,
Glad you like the photo.
Yes, I love my '72 very much. She's in fine shape and has been so inspiring after the RIC tapewounds (45-56-77-103) were put on. They are a little lighter in gauge and tension... easier on her neck and my fingers. The tapewounds' surface texture makes playing her quite a sensuous experience. I also tend to think that tapewounds eat the least fingerboard surface...You know, I always go "WOW" in my mind whenever I'm reminded that my 1st fretless is a Rickenbacker and a '72! (Oldest among my basses.)
As for a 'real yello' Rick bass, I would suggest snapping a much scratched and chipped but structually healthy 4001/4003 real cheap off ebay and have her professionally refinished to your favorite shade of yellow. How about doing so to a white Rick with black binding?
Please do post how you think of the Pyramids on your babies once you get them. I've got a set of short-scale Pyramids that I intend to put on my Epiphone Viola Bass but haven't done so yet as the "First Wives" (my Ricks) get taken care of first.
I have the Tomastik Infeld JF344 (43-56-70-100) on my '86 Shadow and like their elastic feel and E string twang a lot. The red silk wrapping look nice against the black headstock too.

Randy,
By "twist", did you mean a back-bow of the neck giving no relief?

basshawk · Post by **basshawk** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 7:04 pm

Yea Paul I think that's what it is, one side pulled forward while the other stays put. When I look straight down the neck, I can see that the headstock is turned just a little - not straight with the body. But like I said, this last guy that worked on it was able to get it turned back enough to where there is no more buzzing anywhere on the neck. But you can see that she has her head turned just a little, a problem I allways had in school except I had one teacher who instead of adjusting my truss rods, would just sneak up behind me and give me a rap on the head with her inkpen. Too bad that method doesn't work on the bass.

paul_yan · Post by **paul_yan** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 7:27 pm

Hahaha!
That teacher wouldn't make no luthier if he tried.
The last guy was good!

Thanks for your email.
Check your inbox.

dave4004 · Post by **dave4004** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 7:30 pm

Randy, I've never heard of anyone claiming that low tension strings *caused* a bass neck to twist. That's just not how it works.

In any case you should never allow anyone to adjust a 4000 or 4001 unless they specifically know how to handle the old-style trussrod system. I don't think most techs have a clue, and that's just a disaster waiting to happen.

paul_yan · Post by **paul_yan** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 8:04 pm

Dave has a very strong point. Don't trust anyone who has no idea of the old rod system.
I reckon there are lots of non-functioning pre-'80(?) Rick basses gathering dust all over the world just because their old truss rod systems were messed up by non rick-savyy techs. Lots of them have fingerboards popped at the 1st fret/nut.

Too bad the old rods are not available for replacements any more.

I remember that Mr. Hall posted somewhere about a gentleman who makes the old rod systems and who contacted him for marketing them. Wonder what happened to him or his deal with RIC.... Would be nice if they are available so we can rescue lots of old 4001 basses back from moth and dust.

Mr. Hall, any news?

basshawk · Post by **basshawk** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 8:21 pm

Dave, yes I did learn my lesson, in fact I should have followed my first instinct and went to the one who ended up fixing it 'cause he does know how Ricks work. I got the feeling that the first shop never really touched it anyway and just blew a smoke screen at me to get me out of there. I did go to one shop close to my home and asked the guy if he knew how to work on the old Ricks, his answer; "oh yea, I remember those. You gotta pull back on the headstock as hard as you can then tighten the rods tight as you can get them, let go and hope she holds". Needless to say, he aint touchin' my baby.
I'm glad you cleared that up about the low tension issue, I didn't feel that he was right on that one but I wasn't going to stand and argue with him. I think it was just a fluke that the neck straightened just a little when I put the regular flats back on it.
Hey, I'm learning and thanks to this place I've learned a lot.

ken_james · Post by **ken_james** » Wed Jun 11, 2003 1:57 am

Paul, the Shadow looks sweet!
So, while we're on the subject of flats, how long do TI flats usually last?

paul_yan · Post by **paul_yan** » Wed Jun 11, 2003 3:30 am

Kendall,
Thanks.

Those TI's were put on like 2 weeks ago and they sound no less bright (plugged and unplugged) than the Dean Markley Medlite roundwounds on my '98 4003 FG. I was forwarned that they take more time to settle. But they intonate perfectly since day one. Some guys at the Dudepit have had them on for almost half a year and commented that they still sounded fresh.

I heard that the Pyramids lasted very long too, and have a different sound and feel that are loved by many. I'll definitely try them on my Rick basses some day.