4004Cii Fiver

zoomduck · Post by **zoomduck** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 11:18 am

Mark....I have wrist problems (****** ? )...so I thought a Rath conversion would effectively narrow the reach to the E string for me . The E to G width will be more like my 4001....much more comfortable .

markbass99 · Post by **markbass99** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 1:26 pm

Here's a mocked up pic with the top tuners reversed. The "A" key doesn't seem to hang off the end of the bass so bad, it moves it back about 1". One thing I discovered about the Hipshot tuners is you can remove the allen screw holding the key shaft to flip it around so they're reversible. I'm still in decision mode, it's possible that there could be two ways to do this, the Rath method or the Gilbert method(on a 4004).
I'm really digging this j-peg wizard program, it really helps you see your ideas before you start boring holes in stuff.

markbass99 · Post by **markbass99** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 1:56 pm

I had a bad nightmare about this the other night, I dreamed that I was going to build an eight string, then I woke up screaming!

jwr2 · Post by **jwr2** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 3:52 pm

here you go ... my dream bass ... a 10 string Ric bass ...

markbass99 · Post by **markbass99** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 3:53 pm

Did any of you all that toured the RIC factory get to meet Claudia, she obviously worked there in 2003 because she put her name in the TR cavity.

Hey Jeff, can you say neck dive, you better use ultralites on that! I did some quick calculations- 10 ultralites = 18oz, 10 shallers = 35oz.

jps · Post by **jps** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 5:17 pm

Mark, you will need to order an extra long bushing from Hipshot as the standard one that comes with the Ultralite doesn't grab the threads on the tuner body. The four you have were made for me by Hipshot when I found that out. The headstock is thicker than any other out there. Do it now as it may take a while for them to make it.

markbass99 · Post by **markbass99** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 1:13 am

Good news Jeff, I just got my ultralite in and the bushing is only 5/32" shorter than the others, it threads about halfway down on the tuner body and seems to be quite stable. I also noticed the string slot was slightly wider so I'll probably use it for the "B" string. I love these tuning keys and highly recommend them for someone thinking about doing a conversion. I've been working on the nut and recommend buying more than one as I messed up the first one during the learning process. I've got it strung up E-A-D-G right now so I can check out how it's going to feel and at first it felt really strange with the big chunk of extra fret board where the "B"string would be. After I got used to it I could see the possibilities for doing faster runs and improved string muting. Just waiting on my string set to show up now so I can do the "B" slot on the nut and try it strung B-E-D-G with the "A" missing. Then I'll probably take the plunge and drill the "hole"(gasp!)

Still not irreversible at this point.

palmann · Post by **palmann** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 1:21 am

I think I like this one the most. Looks the most ,,natural'' to me...

Gruesse, Pablo

berth · Post by **berth** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 1:42 am

I like three on top best too.

markbass99 · Post by **markbass99** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 1:45 am

Thanks Pablo, that's the one I'm leaning towards right now. I know it still looks sort of odd in that picture but when the TRC and the strings are on it's all going to come together. There is a ton of wood in that headstock- I measured the thickness with calipers and it was .742"

palmann · Post by **palmann** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 2:37 am

Have you checked if the strings make a straight line to the nut if you arrange the tuners like that?

Gruesse, Pablo

teeder · Post by **teeder** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 2:55 am

According to my calibrated eye, it looks like the string will clear the "E" post as shown in the picture above.

markbass99 · Post by **markbass99** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 4:19 am

That's the first thing I checked when I thought about using that position. The string position will be very similar to a factory fiver but with the top three post pushed towards the wave about 1". The "A" post will be about 7 1/2" from the nut, very close to what a "G" post is on a T-bird or p-bass. The 4004Cii also has a generous string break angle, all these things were considered when choosing this position. Now all I have to do is work up the nerve to drill the hole, I think I'll get drunk first, that ought to help.

markbass99 · Post by **markbass99** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 4:33 am

While we're on the subject of 4004 conversion's....anyone notice that the factory 4004Cii5 has a 2" nut....and that the nut Rath advocate's for the fiver conversion is a 2" Carvin six string nut (modified)....could be perfect for a 4004Cii6 conversion.(maybe)

teeder · Post by **teeder** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 4:45 am

"I think I'll get drunk first, that ought to help."

You might want to wait until after the drilling!