'77 4001 truss rod and nut adjustment

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 4:56 am

Five hundred bucks for a setup??? Um, Arnaud, that's Rue Robbery!

The double rod system is better at preventing twists than correcting them. It is to compensate better for the differences in string tension between the treble side of the neck and the bass side.

The best thing that RIC does to negate twisting, is the laminated neck construction. Three pieces of two species of wood, work very well in most cases to equalize forces as the woods absorb and release moisture, expanding and shrinking in the process. This process is continuous.

arnod · Post by **arnod** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:37 am

When I say $500, it's not for a setup. it is what a luthier would ask me for something I can't do myself : getting a straight neck with other tools than truss rod adjustment I can do myself.

With strings detuned (no string tension), I can bow the neck and keep it bowed with truss rod. Once strings are tuned (45-105 gauge ric strings), I have a relief of .020. No matter how hard I bow the neck, it can't go better.
Next I'll try with a lighter gauge but I'd really like to get no relief on this neck (dual truss rod works perfectly, I pulled it off and tested it ok).
Any idea ? Put much more pressure while bowing before tightening nuts ?...
Arnaud

rickaddict · Post by **rickaddict** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 7:00 am

Be patient, Arnaud. Someone will be along to answer your question! I have a few 70's 4001's and don't have a whole lot of confidence in my own ability to adjust the rods or I'd help out myself.

I find the new truss system works extremely well. With my old 4001's, I basically just end up picking strings that have lower tension than I would use otherwise.

To adjust your 4001's neck, you're supposed to leave the strings tuned, loosen the truss rod nuts, move the neck to a position that you're happy with, and then snug the nuts down to hold the neck in place. But I've found that using gorilla-force to bend the neck (and then snugging down the nuts) still hasn't yielded results as good as I can achieve with a simple twist of the modern truss rod system.

rickfan60 · Post by **rickfan60** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 8:04 am

Sometimes relief is a function of the frets not being level.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 8:31 am

Arnaud, there is not magic solution here. If the neck can't be brought to the desired flat configuration by adjusting the truss rod nuts, it is bowed beyond adjustment and an attempt needs to be made to straighten it using a heat blanket, a setup jig, and some clamps. This is pro territory, you're right about that, but $500.00 would be excessive here in the States.

arnod · Post by **arnod** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:15 am

Thanks to everyone for your kind answers and advice.
Yes Paul, I admit I'm looking for a magic solution now that I've tried everything. It's a pro job now regarding neck relief.
Ted, it might also be frets not level. Whether it is a bowed neck or the frets, is this normal to have a 8/64" space between string and 12th fret with bridge at its lowest (with a neck relief just under .020 ?
Arnaud

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:24 am

Not normal, Arnaud. Too much neck bow. this guitar may have been played with the wrong gauge strings, or roundwounds, or both, for a number of years.