Rickenbacker Nylon Bass Strings

rickcrazy · Post by **rickcrazy** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 8:45 am

Well, use a washer about the same diameter as the polepiece. Stick it in place with a bit of glue or something. A one millimeter thick washer should do the trick. If it doesn't, use two such washers. I've have used this method on my J-Bass. Those d**n flush-pole pickups can be a major pain.
As for the polepieces on current high-gain pickups, yes, they can get stuck, sort of, but not on account of being set too low. Being simple steel rivets, once the head sits on the top surface of the pickup bobbin you can't drive them down any further. If I could show you an explanatory drawing you would realize just how simple devices Rick pickups are.

paul_yan · Post by **paul_yan** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 9:34 am

Hmm, let me see if I can upload one of Sergio's drawings here...

paul_yan · Post by **paul_yan** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 9:36 am

Alright, here it is.

Sergio once explained to me the structure of RIC neck pickups. I'll post them here. Hope it's OK by you, Sergio.

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My drawing shows 1) the empty bobbin the 70s/80s high-gain pickup, 2) of the original 60s toaster p.u. and 3) of the current high-gain.

Fig. 1 is an end view showing how the polepieces (drive screws) hold the bobbin together. The coil (not shown) is wound directly onto these (they are covered with black electrical tape to avoid damaging the wire). This high-gain pickup kicks major ***. It is wound to about 7 - 8 K..

Fig. 2 is an end view of a 60s 'toaster' pickup bobbin. As you can see, it has a central portion or core which is integral with the top and the bottom plates and has six round holes adapted to receive the polepieces, which are magnetic slugs as the one shown. Magnetically these are not particularly strong. Also, they are not close to the coil. You will notice that they can not be brought as close to the strings as the drive screws on the high-gain p.u.. As a result, the toaster pickup delivers less output than any high-gain.

Finally, Fig. 3 is an end view of the current high-gain bobbin. You will immediately notice that it's similar to the 60s bobbin. The material it's made†of is softer, though, so that holes can be drilled in the solid core for fitting either drive screws (to make a high-gain) or magnetic slugs (to make a toaster). You can also infer from the drawing the reason why RIC now overwind their high-gains too: winding the current p.u. bobbin to 70s/80s specs would result in a less strong pickup, since its coil can not be as close to the polepieces as on the 70s/80s high-gain.
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rickcrazy · Post by **rickcrazy** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 11:47 am

Of course it is okay, Paul. Many thanks. Actually, I didn't keep the above drawing. I'm glad you did. Well, I trust the above will answer some of your questions regarding Rick pickups, guys. At your service.

ricnvolved · Post by **ricnvolved** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 12:40 pm

My only experience with black nylon tapewounds is the LaBella brand. I have a set of these on my Zeta Crossover and I love the tone they give me. I can't compare them to any other brands because LaBella is the only set I've tried. But they're very high quality and I can recommend them without hesitation.

bear · Post by **bear** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 12:54 pm

In my own experiences the LaBellas feel great, are kind to the fretboard and sound great live. Rotosound Nylon Tapes sound better recorded but have a slicker alien feel. Rotosound Monels are almost as good recorded and almost as good live so are IMHO the trade off set for the best in both worlds. Have not tried a new set of Ric Nylons in years as the set I have on are still fine and I have a second set still in the wrapper that I have not touched in at least 5 years, yeah, for the tone I want on that bass they have lasted a very long time indeed.

fireglo · Post by **fireglo** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:11 pm

Where's the metal in these strings? If they have tape on the outside, and they have nylon somewhere under that, where's the metal part that the pick-up detects?

paul_yan · Post by **paul_yan** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:44 pm

Timothy,
I think the tape wrap is made of nylon or materials of that sort. The core of the strings is still metal (steel, maybe?).

dave4004 · Post by **dave4004** » Mon Jun 23, 2003 5:11 am

Yes, the core is steel and the outer wrap is flat nylon tape.

I have used LaBella tapewounds for years on my Gibson EB-0L, which is definitely not fretless.

ojobob2 · Post by **ojobob2** » Mon Jun 23, 2003 5:34 am

Athough the Rotosound nylons are great on my Fender, just for experiments sake i put the E string on my 4003. It was terrible. whilst you get a nice woody tone with them on the fender, the nylons give you a totally indistinct muddy mess on the rick. Maybe something to do with the slightly shorter scale?

dave4004 · Post by **dave4004** » Mon Jun 23, 2003 11:24 am

Possibly, but I doubt it. Probably just not the right match for that bass.

dano · Post by **dano** » Mon Jun 23, 2003 2:08 pm

Thanks to all!!! I should recieve my RIC nylon set in a few days. Keep your suggestions coming. I'm still undecided on an alternate set. I will repost when I've had a chance to use the new strings a few times.

dano · Post by **dano** » Tue Jun 24, 2003 1:35 pm

Well to all who may be interested...
I recieved a e-mail stating the RIC nylon set has been discontinued. I'm waiting for more info.

docbass · Post by **docbass** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 5:04 pm

Well, I have the LaBella tape wounds on my Gretsch Broadkaster bass and they sound and feel great! I love 'em. I prefer the feel and sound of Pyramid flats on my 4003 however. They just seem to be made for one another. I just can't imagine anything else on it.

ojobob2 · Post by **ojobob2** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 11:01 pm

Dan - If the RIC's no longer exist, you should really try the Roto's