I have a 1967 325 that has a bad rattling sound to it when you play it acoustically and it even comes throw the amp a l little. It sounds like something vibrating so I checked the roller bridge but it looks really soled.
I then checked the truss rods and they are quit lose, hardly any tension. One side was completely lose so I tighten it up a bit to match the other but it still rattles. It just had a set up and the action is already pretty low and the neck is nice and strait so I don't wont to tighten it to much.
So my questions are 1 is it bad for the neck to have the truss rods so lose? And 2 do you think that's what is rattling?
Thanks Mark!!!!
Rattling sound on a 325
Moderator: jingle_jangle
One truss rod being loose sounds a little odd but you've done the right thing to take up the slack. If the neck is in the right position that's all you need to do. Don't tighten either of them any further.
The rattling is likely to be coming from the roller bridge. They can be very touchy - and even look ok. Being a semi-handmade part there is variation in the position of the saddle threaded holes, and the soft aluminium or zinc they are made from can also deform slightly over the years. The the usual problem is a slight gap under one or more of the saddles (between the saddle and bridge assy) A common solution is a small piece of shim material (like brass shim) cut to size and slipped in to this gap.
The rattling is likely to be coming from the roller bridge. They can be very touchy - and even look ok. Being a semi-handmade part there is variation in the position of the saddle threaded holes, and the soft aluminium or zinc they are made from can also deform slightly over the years. The the usual problem is a slight gap under one or more of the saddles (between the saddle and bridge assy) A common solution is a small piece of shim material (like brass shim) cut to size and slipped in to this gap.
The saddles on these,are famous for side to side rocking .To fix this in the factory ,we had an anvil and a stainless screw that was inserted into the threaded hole.We then smacked the edge of the foot on one side to cause a curling of the edge to firm up the bottom of the saddle .
Then removed the stainless screw and re-install the saddle in the bridge .
This is only part of the rattle problem .You must make sure that all 4 feet of the bridge are firmly planted on the plate .
You also need to check the angle from the tailpiece to the bridge .If there is hardly any and you are using string lighter than .011 to .048 then that is a real problem .NOT enough tension/downward pressure on the rollers.
You will find that the 'tray' that the saddles sit in or 'chassis' does not have a flat bottom .This is fairly common .So don't go nuts with a hammer beating the corner of the saddle .
You could bend the screw .That is also really common.
These old bridges were made in a time when it was okay to be that way ,standards have changed and the new bridges made since the early 1980's are really terriffic.
If you havd a vertical mill you could modify one of the new bridges and come up with a new version of the roller saddle set up .
Ti check the rods for rattle ...just lightly tap the back of the neck .
Then removed the stainless screw and re-install the saddle in the bridge .
This is only part of the rattle problem .You must make sure that all 4 feet of the bridge are firmly planted on the plate .
You also need to check the angle from the tailpiece to the bridge .If there is hardly any and you are using string lighter than .011 to .048 then that is a real problem .NOT enough tension/downward pressure on the rollers.
You will find that the 'tray' that the saddles sit in or 'chassis' does not have a flat bottom .This is fairly common .So don't go nuts with a hammer beating the corner of the saddle .
You could bend the screw .That is also really common.
These old bridges were made in a time when it was okay to be that way ,standards have changed and the new bridges made since the early 1980's are really terriffic.
If you havd a vertical mill you could modify one of the new bridges and come up with a new version of the roller saddle set up .
Ti check the rods for rattle ...just lightly tap the back of the neck .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
-
anon
Thanks for the responses Glen and Mark!!!
I did what Mark said to check the rods and when I tap the back of the neck I can clearly here the rods moving. Is that ok?
I'm not a repairmen , just a player who is trying to decide weather or not to take my guitar in for repairs or not. Thanks again for all the help!
I did what Mark said to check the rods and when I tap the back of the neck I can clearly here the rods moving. Is that ok?
I'm not a repairmen , just a player who is trying to decide weather or not to take my guitar in for repairs or not. Thanks again for all the help!
-
anon
sure it can wait ...can you stand it ?
It isn't a problem ,just an annoyance.
To fix the rattle you need to cushion the rods with something .
1/4" masking tape or electrical tape is easy to come by and does a good job.
You don't need to wrap around the rods,just add a layer inbetween the two sections of rod .That should do it .
The tension of the adjusted rods is what holds it in place .with little or no tension it can rattle in the slot .Don't go tightening the rods just to remove the rattle ....that will also adjust the straightness of the fretboard/neck.These are two different things .
It isn't a problem ,just an annoyance.
To fix the rattle you need to cushion the rods with something .
1/4" masking tape or electrical tape is easy to come by and does a good job.
You don't need to wrap around the rods,just add a layer inbetween the two sections of rod .That should do it .
The tension of the adjusted rods is what holds it in place .with little or no tension it can rattle in the slot .Don't go tightening the rods just to remove the rattle ....that will also adjust the straightness of the fretboard/neck.These are two different things .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
-
anon