Installing an endpin jack (non-RIC)

loverickbass · Post by **loverickbass** » Tue Oct 17, 2006 11:12 am

Paul, I've got a Martin B-1 acoustic bass and I was thinking about doing the pickup install myself. I'm pretty sure I can mount the pickup (K&K soundboard Transducer)but I'm not too sure about drilling out the endpin hole. Do you know if I can just ream out the hole a little bigger or do I have to drill?

Thanks,

Cole

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Tue Oct 17, 2006 11:36 am

Cole,

Most endpin jacks require a nice, clean 1/2" hole. As you suspect, this can be tricky because of the finish damage that's possible if you don't do it just right.

My favorite way to drill this hole (in a new acoustic without an endpin) is to use a Forstner bit. But the Forstner has a center spur to keep it in place during the initial drilling, and this spur needs wood, not air, to anchor it...

Cover the bottom of the guitar with several layers of masking tape, all around the endpin hole. Place the guitar face up on a solid, flat surface with several layers of clean towels under it. Have a friend hold it firmly.

You will have to use an ordinary drill bit to enlarge the endpin hole to 1/2".

I would use a variable-speed drill on a slow speed to drill the 1/2" hole initially. Be careful at the very beginning and at the end, too. These are the two times during which the drill bit is most likely to grab. Go easy. Take your time.

When you're done, peel the tape back very carefully.

If there are slight chips around the edge of the hole, chances are the jack washer will cover things nicely. But best to go for a perfect, round, sharp hole.

Good luck! It's a tense 5 minutes, that's for sure.

loverickbass · Post by **loverickbass** » Tue Oct 17, 2006 11:41 am

Looks like the masking tape is the trick. The main thing I was worried about was the chipping that will happen.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Tue Oct 17, 2006 12:42 pm

Masking tape---and a gentle hand!

loverickbass · Post by **loverickbass** » Tue Oct 17, 2006 12:59 pm

Thanks Paul! What would we do without 'ya?

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:11 pm

Thanks back atcha Cole, but there are many other talented people contributing here as well, so in reality few questions go unanswered.

loverickbass · Post by **loverickbass** » Tue Oct 17, 2006 4:22 pm

One more thing Paul, if I may have your time. I want to lower the action while I'm doing the pickup install; is it recomended that sandpaper be used to shave the saddle? If so, what grit?

Cole

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Tue Oct 17, 2006 4:37 pm

You can use #320-#400. Lay it on a flat surface like a Formica or granite countertop, and move the saddle against the sandpaper, not the other way around. Check often. If this is a piezo setup, with the ribbon under the saddle, the saddle must be as flat as possible to prevent hot spots and drop outs.

steve_hershberger · Post by **steve_hershberger** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:12 am

The absolute best way to enlarge the existing endpin hole is to use a Unibit. Follow the rest of Paul's advice though (especially the tape and taking your time).

You can get a Unibit at most hardware stores (I got mine at Lowe's or Home Depot) for about $20. Well worth it in my opinion. The result was a very clean hole with no chipping of the finish on the outside, or tear-out on the inside.

loverickbass · Post by **loverickbass** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:43 am

What's different about the Unibit Steve? Pardon my ignorance.

Cole

ken_j · Post by **ken_j** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 4:30 am

You can still use Paul's favorite method of the Forstner bit if you put a short dowel in the existing hole so as to have a spot to center it with. A Brad point drill bit will also score the outside like a Forstner bit but also needs a place to center on. I use brad point drill bits when drilling out tuner holes on headstocks.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:33 am

Steve, great tip. I use a Unibit on thin material, but never considered using it where the wood is so thick. To use this method, however, be sure that you pick up a Unibit with a MAX diameter of 1/2", and pass it all the way through, otherwise you will get a stepped hole!

Irwin Unibit part number 10231 or 10232 would be the ticket here.

Ken, that's also a great idea.

A Forstner takes a good deal of force in a hand drill, as it's scraping, not shearing like a standard drill bit does. But the unibit--since it starts out small, has one vertical flute, and scrapes from the edge in small increments, is perfect for this kind of hole, where surrounding finish must remain undamaged.

So I, too vote for the Unibit and plan to put it to good use beginning today!

steve_hershberger · Post by **steve_hershberger** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 2:17 am

Good point about making sure the bit goes all the way through the end block. The block itself probably isn't any more than an inch thick, so it was really easy to get the bit all the way through.

It's also best to have your pickup in-hand already so you can take measurements etc. first. I mean don't just drill a 1/2" hole and then buy your pickup because I'd guess that different brands vary slightly. I found that the Baggs instructions were well written and easily understood but I also studied them for a lot longer than it took to do the installation. Mostly because I didn't want to mess up anything (especially my guitar).

As with anything else, be careful and take your time and things should work out perfectly.

loverickbass · Post by **loverickbass** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:09 am

Yup, going to wait on the pickup before I do anything. Thanks for all the help!

Cole