New finish for 4001V63

xsubs · Post by **xsubs** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:04 am

I've been reading many of the posts here, especially those by Dale and Paul W., and would like some input... please!
This is the 1st post for me, but I'm a long time Ric player. My first Ric, bought new in 1969 and sold in '84, was a 4001 MG serial number HG1xx... after that several 70's basses, and lately 3 V63 basses and a CS (#822-sold on eBay in '99.)
I just purchased another 2000 FG V63 that I want to refinish. Not sure yet what color or type of finish. I've narrowed it down to two variations:
1. Brite White NC finish
2. Natural satin finish (like a C64S) either oil or NC sealer

If I go with option #1, would you rough the existing CV and paint over it? Or would it be better to go down to wood? I've heard both, so I'm not sure.
Should I decide to go with option #2, would you recommend the sealer approach or the oil method?

I also plan to darken/stain the fingerboard to match the headstock wings, so any input on that would also be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all... this is a GREAT forum!
Cheers
Sean

rumbush · Post by **rumbush** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 10:49 am

You'll please forgive me when I implore you to not refinish it!

Welcome to the Forum!

doctorwho · Post by **doctorwho** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 11:14 am

Welcome, Sean! Please don't mind the differing opinions on refinishing, as that seems to be one of those polarizing subjects around here!

Paul is still dealing with his kidney stone operation, so it may take a little time for him to respond.

I'll post a cross-thread under The Vibrola section, as Dale may have some comments on the subject as well.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 11:30 am

By NC I assume you mean nitrocellulose, Sean. I wouldn't recommed painting nitrocellulose over scuffed CV; it will chip too readily. You could strip the bass and spray white over it, once it's been sealed with vinyl cealer.

Why NC? It'll save you a couple of hundred bucks, but longevity is a trade-off. Why not go with factory (shiny and smooth and impact-resistant) CV?

In the case of a natural (MG) finish, once again I'd recommend a low-gloss (matte) CV finish. There are many manufacturers who make this type of finish.

I suppose you could go with an oil finish, too. I personally prefer something with max durability.

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:00 pm

Sean(great name BTW and welcome to this Forum) I have always believed that if the original finish is in good shape, then leave it alone. Yes it can and should be taken down to bare wood when doing a refinish and any color one so desires can be applied. NC if applied correctly is a very durable finish. 1st, 6 coats of NC sanding sealer are applied with 1 week of time for curing. Then flat sanded with 320 grit paper before the color coat is applied. This can be anything from solid color to a faded sunburst. After the color, 8 thin coats of clear NC are applied given 2 coats a day over a 4 day period. Let this cure for a week minimum before flat/color sanding and buffing out. This is the way Gibson did their finishes in the 50's. It is a very long lasting and durable finish. As for CV, it is also a fine way to finish a guitar, very protective and durable. A 2 part finish that dries quickly and cures very fast. Layers can be applied as soon as the 1st one dries making it sandable right away. As for oil finishes: I've done Watco and Danish Oil finishes which are nice and give the bare wood feel while protecting the instrument. Staining the fingerboard requires a refret in order to get the right color and tone to the bare wood. Then a protective sealer must be applied to insure that the stain does not wear off. This can be anything from oil to CV. Brilliant white NC lacquer will turn yellow over a period of time due to it's photochemical reactiveness to ultra-violet light. I love the look of a faded out white finish. Just personal a preference. If you chose to do a satin finish, they tend to polish up just with natural playing, this makes the areas where ones moves their hands or arms on the instrument shine almost like a gloss finish. I don't care much for them, easy to apply (no sanding or buffing to a gloss finish) so this will save time and money. NC and CV costs are almost identical in materials and labor. They are both excellent finishes to use.

j_gary · Post by **j_gary** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 9:48 pm

Welcome Sean, cool idea.

It would be best to get one done in each color and then sell the one you don't want to me.

Sounds like fun, good luck!

xsubs · Post by **xsubs** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 4:13 am

Thank you to all that have welcomed me to this forum. It is an awesome resource!
I have exchanged emails with Dale and Paul regarding my refinish, both VERY knowledgeable men BTW, and have decided to have it done professionally. Dale has offered to perform the work after the new year!
I have experience with nitro, and have done many a refinish, but want to let someone with CV experience do the work. Too nice of a bass to take chances with.
I will post pics of the transition, as I know how much we all like those photos!
Happy Holidays to one and all...
Cheers
Sean

wints · Post by **wints** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:32 pm

Here's a white version that should give you a visual Sean.

xsubs · Post by **xsubs** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 7:37 pm

Thanks for the pic Andrew... that's EXACTLY what I'm going for. After making the decision to have Dale do the work, I decided on the white finish. The natural satin would have been an easier DIY for me, but I've always wanted a white S bass. I like the bright white like yours. I had a CS reissue, for about a week years ago, but couldn't stand the colour. I asked several people at the time, without telling them what the colour was called, to tell me what colour it was and we all agreed... it was YELLOW.
Dear bass you've got there, Andrew! My first, professional, bass was a '68 4001; I sold it in the early-mid 80s in NYC. It went for a song [sic] but as there was no vintage market then, I don't beat myself up to much! To ease my pain I will be setting up the V63 to my liking. Along with the white finish, I'll be installing an original 60s horseshoe lead pickup. I've had it for some time now, just waiting for this occasion. I'm also having Dale leave the headstock wings visible, and darkening the fingerboard to match. I like that look Squire's bass has, even though I'm not a huge Yes fan. I much prefer Family, the Pretty Things, etc...
I'm looking forward to Dale working his magic next month, and will post pics for you as it takes form.

BTW - Are you from Croydon... your name seems familiar? I used to live in Richmond.

Cheers
Sean

wints · Post by **wints** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 12:52 am

Sean,

Your welcome. My '64 bass is all white including the headstock. There are more photo's here...
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/wintz63/album/576460762347142353

Your V63 should look great after Dale has finished. The original 60's HS is a nice touch too. Keep us informed!

Croydon? Funny, I was there a few times in the early 80's and a relative used to live there, but I'm from Kent originally.

beatlefan · Post by **beatlefan** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 3:01 pm

Every time I see that pic of Wints bass...man , I just wanna cry...

Great choice of finish, Sean....and Welcome to the forum!

moonliner · Post by **moonliner** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 5:32 pm

Dale, would you consider taking on another v63 refinishing job?

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 7:55 pm

Of course, I'd love to...This is what I do..thank you...Dale

moonliner · Post by **moonliner** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 8:31 pm

Wonderful! From what I see, you are the man for the job.

My email is [email protected]. Drop me a line when you have a moment and we'll go from there.

Thanks.

xsubs · Post by **xsubs** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:43 pm

Update...
Dale received my bass last week, and will be doing a refin to white. I'm anxious to see the transformation! His work is awesome.
I'll post pics of the work as I get them...