Nut alterations

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red330
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Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2003 9:45 am

Nut alterations

Post by red330 »

I have a 330/12 which when the action is lowered (so the strings are touching the pups), the action is still to high!
Pretty sure the nut slots are not "deep" enough.
Question is, what is the best way to deepen these slots, whats the best tool to do it.
Should I leave it to an expert?

thanks
sneakers

Post by sneakers »

Everything that has been said so far is correct. The nut slot depth would be the last thing to check in the set up of any fretted istrument.

Once the neck is straight, with a slight relief around the 12th or 14th fret, the action or string height should be set. The bridge contour may articulate the crown of the fingerboard, but some are flat. The action should be low enough for personal comfort, but high enough such that the strings don't buzz.

The string height at the nut is measured with accurate clearance "feeler" gauges. I like to calculate the clearance so that I can slide the gauges under each string right before the nut.
That way I can use the gauges as a limiter so I don't file too far. Clearance between the first fret and the bottom of each string should be the same as the diameter of the string as a starting point. Accurate nut files are a good investment to insure a successful set up. Nut files are expensive and should be purchased based on the gauge or diameter of the strings you will be using.

Don't be afraid, but if you're totally unsure about what you're doing, leave nut filing to a pro. Replacing a nut because of filing too deep or some other misfortune is time consuming and possibly costly on your part if you have to hire a luthier. Good luck.
red330
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Post by red330 »

Thanks Miguel and Joe..............I feel a bit foolish now actually.........

I new the action in general was way to high, so I lowered it, but the strings hit the bridge pup when it was as low as I wanted it, so I assumed the nut to blame (as I have saw threads on here with owners not very happy with their nuts,..........actually that didn't come out right, but you know what I mean :-)

Anyway, all that was needed was the bridge pup lowered............I lowered it and lowered the action and it now plays like a dream.

No fool like a young(ish) fool.......

Cheers for your help anyways
marvar

Post by marvar »

I always dreamed of owning a Ric 12, and I have finally been able to buy one. I've never been so disipointed in all my life. You know, I feel that if you are paying over a thousand dollars for an American made product, it should be ready to play. Instead I find that all kinds of adjustments have to be made to make the thing playable. I've spent over $300. more than the purchase price, on stuff the factory should have done in the first place.
sneakers

Post by sneakers »

Welcome Mark,

I agree with you, and I haven't read a good reason for why Rickenbacker does this. I went through a lot getting the right nut for my 360/12.

Andrew,

Just be glad you didn't mess with the nut. Chalk it up as a learning experience.
lshaia
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Post by lshaia »

I had exactly the same problem with my 4003. I even had to send one back for action related problems. In my case it wasn't the money so much as the time and disappointment of dealing with the same issue twice. In addition to all the adjustments (which I would accept) my nut slots had to be filed (which I was not happy about).

Having said that, no company can predict what will be comfortable for any given player; I've read that Gibson purposly leaves some of their nut slots shallow figuring that it is much easier to file the slots for lower action than to replace the nut for higher. Maybe that's the strategy, but if so there must be Ric players who have hands like King Kong.
dave4004
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Post by dave4004 »

No guitar maker can possibly set up a guitar that will suit everyone's tastes. On top of that, changes in climate from factory to destination and seasonal changes in the store before the instrument is sold are beyond the control of the factory.

Some dealers will set up an instrument to your satisfaction before it leaves the store. If you can't do your own setups, you need to look for a dealer like this.

Of course a custom builder can do it exactly as you wish, but you pay for it.
marvar

Post by marvar »

I bought a 360/12 then had to buy the vintage pickups, 12 saddle bridge, etc. I recently bought and Ibanez Artwood accoustic 12 string, and right out the the box it put the Ric to shame as far as playability. Well, I did have tha action adjusted, and he also filed the nut slots, but the thing still is not fun to play at the 1st and 2nd fret. It plays great everywhere else.I've been playing and working on guitars for over 30 years, so I guess I will take alot of time and cut the slots a little deeper. I've always played Gibsons, and only have had to do minimal set up on them. It seems that these Rics are WAYYYY over engineered.
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Post by admin »

Mark: It seems that you may need to do a little more work on the setup. Don't give up on it.

Just in passing, why not plug the Artwood into a sound system and see if it chimes like a Rickenbacker. I would be interested in your comparison of both sounds.
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm

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marvar

Post by marvar »

I have plugged the Artwood into an amp, and with the Fishman system it sounds really good- it also has a phase switch on it and I can get real close to the "Chime" sound. I'm sure with a little more eq tweeking I could get it. I wonder if I could somehow install a Ric pup in it. lol! The Ric is just so beautiful to look at, that I can't give up on it yet!
mortivan

Post by mortivan »

I have an Ibanez Artwood 6-string, and I must admit it played liked a dream right out of the box. Someone told me the Ibanez Artwoods are really the continuation of the old Tama line of acoustics. Remember those?
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