Powder coating question

gray · Post by **gray** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 1:44 pm

I was wondering if anyone here has ever powder coated tuners, bridges, etc. I found this one, but I don't have much experience with powder coating, so I'm hoping for some input on the specifics anyone can tell me.

gray · Post by **gray** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 2:28 pm

This is what I meant to post. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D01%2D06100&N=700+115&autoview=sku

johnallg · Post by **johnallg** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 3:08 pm

Robert, you might be able to find a company that powder coats in Lake Geneva that will powder coat for you at a decent price. If my bridge pup surround bubbles any more I plan on doing that.

beatlefreak · Post by **beatlefreak** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 4:47 pm

Check on the internet. There are lots of companies that do professional powder coating.

gray · Post by **gray** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 5:52 pm

Yeah, I thought about sending stuff out to have it done, but I just liked the DIY notion of the gun. I thought it would be kind of fun thing to do, to Shadow-ize my 4003 (as if it weren't obvious that that's what I was up to!)

I think I might know a place nearby that could do it. Also, can the pickup cover survive a powder coating (like the baking) or is that a job for some other kind of paint?

johnallg · Post by **johnallg** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 6:34 pm

Robert, Paul just answered someone's question (Bryce?) on re-chroming the bridge cover, so that might be worth searching out.

My BT cover looks like just raw plastic, so I have a feeling the covers are black plastic that gets chromed.

beatlefreak · Post by **beatlefreak** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 2:24 am

I could be wrong here, but to may knowledge, there is no heat used in black powder coating. I believe it's an electrostatic type attraction which bonds the powder to the metal.

ken_j · Post by **ken_j** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 3:23 am

I have used a similar gun to powder coat a black "R" tailpiece and bracket. It worked very well. You need to be able to heat it up to 500 deg F in order to make the powder flow. If you are just doing small parts this will work well. I used a dedicated oven to heat my parts. I don't think you would want to use the oven you cook in. You can probably fabricate a make shift oven out of sheet metal and use some heat lamps to get it up to temp. I would recommend using a thermocouple to monitor temps.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 4:36 am

The original attraction of the plastic powder to the surface is due to a condition akin to a static charge, but you need the heat to bond the plastic to the substrate. It can be done in a home oven, but beware of fumes.

It you do decide to do it yourself, note that any areas where tolerances need to be held (bearing surfaces, pin fits, etc., and friction surfaces) must be carefully masked with a special polyester/silicone tape.

http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/powder_tape.html

Note also that 500ºF is a bit high...the plastic powder used will usually melt at 375ºF or thereabouts.

Would I do this at home? Nope, due to smell. This company (Caswell Plating) sells a nice benchtop oven for smaller parts...for $6200.00!

johnhall · Post by **johnhall** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 4:38 am

There absolutely is heat involved in black (or any other color) powder coating. It's the heat that causes the material to fuse together and give it the shine. The gun with its electrostatic application is just to get that initial coating applied before baking.

Doing it DIY will give you a reasonable coating but a very smooth, even gloss finish without orange peel is fairly difficult even for the pros to do, so it's mainly going to be a choice of quality for you (and/or accessibility to an appropriate oven).

beatlefreak · Post by **beatlefreak** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 6:33 am

I stand corrected!

gray · Post by **gray** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:23 pm

Interesting information, thanks everybody!