Bridge Plate on 360/12 - Correct Screws ???

mikestop · Post by **mikestop** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 5:04 am

I was trying to lower my bridge just a little and found that it wouldn't go down. The 2 screws that hold the plate to the body have rounded heads that sit a 10th of an inch or so above the plate preventing the bridge from going down any further. I'm wondering if these screws are not the correct type! Question - are the screw holes in the plate concaved for a more tapered screw that would seat flush with the top of the plate thus allowing me to lower the bridge? Thanks for any info!!

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 6:38 am

You don't mention year and model, Mike. Regardless, I can tell you that this situation is not "factory"!

The screws should be #4 X 1/4" oval head self-tapping screws, either in stainless steel or chrome plated.

The plate's holes which receive these screws are countersunk so that they sit virtually flush with the surface.

Must be an older guitar that someone's messed with, because if you need to set the bridge that low, it sounds more like you need a neck reset.

mikestop · Post by **mikestop** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 7:57 am

Paul, It's a 360/12 made in 1967 that I had converted to a 6 string back in 1977 when I bought it. In all these years it has been almost perfect, I could tune it and come back to it a month or two later and it would still be in perfect tune. The intonation was always spot on after the occassional bridge adjustment. The bridge finally gave out so I had a new RIC bridge installed and I'm having a VERY slight intonation problem with the high E & B strings going slightly sharp on the twelfth fret. I'm not even sure the strings can be lowered any more since the action is already so low. I have the E & B saddles as far back as they can go. They could move further back but are blocked by small springs on the adjustment screw shafts. Can these springs be removed and how would I, or is not a good idea to remove them. Finally I guess a neck reset is something I might have to look into in the near future. Thanks again!!!

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 8:38 am

You can remove those springs; some people cut 'em in half to gain about 1/8" more adjustment.

beatlefreak · Post by **beatlefreak** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 8:51 am

New bridge plates (available from the Rickenbacker site Boutique) have mounting slots rather than simple holes to allow some forward/backward adjustment of the entire bridge assembly.

emjayw · Post by **emjayw** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 9:41 am

What Beatlefreak said..... is the way to go.

mikestop · Post by **mikestop** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:13 am

Paul. If I decide to cut the springs is there a trick to it? I don't want to cause any damage.
Thanks, Mike....

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:19 am

Use a hardened pair of miniature sidecutter pliers.