Got my 1st 4003 Scared to death of my adjustments

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aragorn35016
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Got my 1st 4003 Scared to death of my adjustments

Post by aragorn35016 »

Got my 1st Ric bass ever today! It is definitely a work of art! Ive never owned anything this nice. It needed some setup on it when I got it, and I knew when I started that it was a totally different beast than adjusting Fenders. It looks as if it has Daddario pro steels on it, though Im not sure what guage. Anyway the neck had a lot of relief when I got it and when I took off the TRC the treble side rod was alot Tighter than the bass side, had about 2 and a half threads showing and the bass side rods nut was flush with the end of the rod, It took adjusting the bass side rod being equal to the treble side to get relief in the neck, but it still wasn't completely right as I had the bridge totally lowered to have good action. So I let it settle for awhile and opened the TRC again and gave anoter 8th turn on each rod and which allowed me some adjustment in the bridge and its playing great! I guess im just scared from reading all the Truss rod horror stories that I need to change strings. I dont know what "tight" is on these rods and Im afraid I might have over adjusted them as they started to get a little tight and I'm also scared that over time the plate their mounted to will chew into the neck. They each now have about 3 to 3 and a half threads showing out the end of the nut. What do you think guys do I need to slack them off? Here's a pic, any advice would be appreciated.

John

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Aragorn35016/100_1015.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Aragorn35016/100_1010.jpg
rictified
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Post by rictified »

Don't worry about how many threads you have showing, tighten them until the neck is almost flat and you have to raise the bridge some to get good action, if you have the bridge way down low you have too little tension in the rods. Try to get the same amount of relief on both sides of the neck and leave a tiny bit of relief in like a business card or two height in the middle of the neck with both ends fretted. Don't force anything but don't be afraid of them either, most of the horror stories are from guys who didn't understand 4001's which are a completely different animal. You don't have to but I always bend the neck backwards while I tighten the nuts to take tension off the neck which opposes the tightening truss rods.
aragorn35016
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Post by aragorn35016 »

Thanks for the reply! I compared this string with a jazz bass that I have strung with prosteel 105 etc etc etc (I cant remember what the rest are) This set definitely has a 105 E and the A,D, and G are heavier than the ones on the Jazz. I traded out D and G strings (the A wasn't long enough) and it seemed to help with the tension. My main concern or question I guess (and this maybe only happen to 4001's) Is what causes that plate that the trussrods mount too to eat into the neck?

John

P.S. I cant say again how much different a Ric feels to a P or J bass. Its like the whole thing just resonates when you play it, as well as looks and feels so darn solid! I dont know how to explain it, It just a different animal in terms of sound and feel. Im so glad I finally got one of these!
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beatlefreak
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Post by beatlefreak »

I don't think you have anything to worry about, John. The pics look fine. If you're worried at all about the tightness of the nuts, you can always 'help' the neck into position manually, then snug the truss rod nuts up to hold it there. As Bob said, you're looking for an absolutely flat to just a tiny bit of relief.
Ka is a wheel.
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ram
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Post by ram »

What Bob and Kris said - the nuts look fine... String on and tuned up (I assume they were off for picture clarity). Assuming a little neck bow away from the strings - What I do for my 4001, 4003s5 & 4004L (although the 3 & 4 don't need to be done this way) is: Sit down on the couch. Bass to my right, neck crossing my right leg around the 9th fret, TRC off (I have also used the arm of the couch in place of my leg). A small couch pillow on the tail piece for a little resistance. With my left hand, I put a little pressure on the head stock (between the first tuner pegs and the nut) until the neck is a little past flat (as measured between the D&G strings). While maintaining the pressure with my left hand, I turn the truss nut (the one farthest away), with my right hand, until it snugs up. Then repeat for the truss closest to you (measuring between the E&A strings). The manual says no more than a half a rotation of the nut per turn. I have rarely come close to a half of a turn. If you are new to this, I would recommend not going past a total of a half rotation per session - with a quarter of a rotation per turn being the target (if necessary).

If the bow is bad (looks like it will take a couple of half turns per nut) and/or you are new at this; you might want to do the adjustments in phases. Do the first half turns series for both nuts and then play it and let it sit for a period (say 8 to 12 hours). Then adjust again; not more than a half turn total for each nut in each session.

Less is best here - take your time to zero it in.
The only thing we can perceive are our perceptions - George Berkeley
rickaddict
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Post by rickaddict »

You don't have to worry about the plate thing under the truss nuts tipping, John. That's a 4001 problem.

The modern 4003 truss rods and neck are very strong. As long as you're using a nut-driver type wrench to adjust them and not something with more leverage(like a ratchet for instance!) you shouldn't have to worry about damaging your bass.

Now go rock out!
Play what you love, love what you play!
aragorn35016
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Post by aragorn35016 »

Thanks for the replies!!One more silly question. The band I play in plays a half step down. I hate playing in that tuning so I only tune a half step down for practices and shows. Will alternating between the two affect the neck in a negative way? It never has on my fenders, just want to make sure its safe for the Ric as well.

John
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beatlefreak
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Post by beatlefreak »

A half step difference shouldn't matter.
Ka is a wheel.
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johnallg
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Post by johnallg »

Another observation to go with Tom's post - when you have the nuts tighter (sometimes they turn very easily when you first get the bass), a quarter of a turn moves the neck quite a bit. Once you are close to flat, a little bit of a turn goes a ways to moving the neck enough to be flat. Doing this over time, you will get the hang of how much is enough. With the temp/humidity changes here in SW Mich., I need to adjust about twice a year.
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thx1955
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Post by thx1955 »

I'll be back into that regime after my northerly move, humidity is so stable here I've not had to adjust truss rods in a long time !!
"It's Red Jim, but not as we know it...."
rictified
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Post by rictified »

Yeah I have to adjust most of my basses because of humidity from winter to summer and back.
aragorn35016
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Post by aragorn35016 »

One more stupid question. I don't know if anyone on here uses prosteels but they have been the Rounds I have been using for the past 2 years,and also happens to be what the Ric was equipped with when I got it, they sound really good and last an insanely long time. They start out being really ruff but seem to slick up a little after a week. Ive had them on a jazz that has a Geddy Lee Neck and change them about every 3 months for 2 years and haven't seen any fret damage, are the Ric frets in any danger from these strings? I know Im in full on paranoid mode right now, because Ive owned alot of basses (old fenders new fenders etc. and alot of musicman basses) but none this beautiful and with this tone! I just don't want to screw up a good thing!!

John
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ram
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Post by ram »

John, a bunch of folks use the Pros and I have never heard of any problems with the frets. I've been using DAddario EXL170s on my '74 4001 for almost 20 years and just had the frets touched up a couple of years ago... probably didn't even need that. Pros rock - great tones. I think you are safe with them.
The only thing we can perceive are our perceptions - George Berkeley
aragorn35016
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Post by aragorn35016 »

Well took the Ric to practice today and got to run it through my Trace Elliot Rig and got to hear its full potential! Definitely haven't played anything else like it and despite popular opinion, I found it extremely versatile, went from smooth and mellow to snarling like a rabid dog with just a few tweaks of the volume and tone knobs. So glad I bought this bass and for the life of me don't know why its taken me so many years to get one. Gonna keep the prosteels on it for now and probably switch to some lighter guage XL's when they wear out.

John
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ram
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Post by ram »

John I can't agree more - I feel that my 4001 is one of the most versatile basses I have ever played - thus the reason I have had it since 1974. The 4000 series bass is just plain 'ole magnificient! Have fun with yours!!! I think this may be the beginning of a very long relationship for you!
The only thing we can perceive are our perceptions - George Berkeley
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