Best Polish

ziggydude · Post by **ziggydude** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 7:02 am

Greetings!

Well - my band finally went bust - after being about for 23 years - I was in it for at least 14 of them. I am about the only member that has not "Lost the Fire" and still wants to play it seems.

So - time to clean up all the gear until I find something new. I was wondering what folks would suggest for a nice cleaner or polish for my Ric bass. Produced in 2002 if that matters. Something that won't leave a residue really. I don't have a lot of scratches or anything - just want to clean her up.

As far as the fret board - curious for that to.

Thanx,

- Ziggy -

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 7:37 am

Robert, check in my Topic Section ("Reflections of a Curmudgeon"), and also in past "Vibrola" posts, for advice on using Scratch-X and Zymol--a two-step process for making instruments look like new again.

Alternatively, you could do a search under either of those product names on this site.

rickaddict · Post by **rickaddict** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 7:49 am

He's the man. Scratch X & Zymol works wonders. And it'll get you high!

(Sort of!)

beatlefreak · Post by **beatlefreak** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:04 am

What they said - Zymöl Cleaner/wax is the way to go! The Scratch-X is great for removing swirl marks from wiping the guitar down.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:19 am

...which brings me to another issue that will be of interest:

The RIC polishing cloths--which are made of specially-treated cotton flannel and are really super for dusting--will not scratch the finish,

UNLESS

a) the cloth is left outside its poly bag for enough time and in such a location such that dust settles on it, or

b) the instrument itself has been left in an open case, on a stand or on a hanger so that it collects dust.

Household dust contains jagged abrasive particles that are many times harder than the conversion varnish finish on Rickenbacker guitars (and on the finishes used on other guitars, too!)

Keep the dust cloth in a poly bag, in the case. If it has collected a lot of dust, discard it for a new one.

If the instrument is very dusty, use a DAMP cotton cloth like a diaper or soft cotton t-shirt, to LIGHTLY wipe down the guitar or bass, prior to handling, storing, waxing, or playing. It is the dusting or handling motion which drags these microscopic particles across the softer CV surface, that causes those fine "halo" scratches in the surface.

A coat of wax also helps immensely to deflect this sort of scratching.

The darker the finish, the more critical this advice becomes, but all guitars will benefit from your remembering just how abrasive dust is!

ziggydude · Post by **ziggydude** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:09 am

So - basically - the cloth is OK unless your guitar is dirty (which is why you want to polish it)

The wax does not leave a residue?

I will check out the Scratch X & Zymol

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:26 am

I see the RIC polishing cloth as something to be used to remove fingerprints rather than dust.

Dust=damp cotton cloth first. Never scrub or rub hard. The CV is very durable and resilient, specifically because it's soft and ductile.

johnallg · Post by **johnallg** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:51 am

I read the thread subject title and was going to propose Paul's name, but for a different reason than developed here!

Scratch-X and Zymol are the way to go.

sowhat · Post by **sowhat** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:42 am

I have a stupid question: is the cloth useful with oil finishes (and how to treat oil finishes properly?) or i may never need it? (i have one which went with the guitar but it remains "untouched")

doctorwho · Post by **doctorwho** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:53 am

Sheena, for oil finishes the RIC manual (http://www.rickenbacker.com/pdfs/manual.pdf) has the procedure on page 7 (Scotch Brite Ultra Fine pad with tung oil). I used it on the 650S I had and it worked fine. The RIC wipe cloth would be OK for removing fingerprints, etc., from an otherwise clean guitar, IMO.

beatlefreak · Post by **beatlefreak** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 3:12 pm

Paul at one time had mentioned Watco's Danish Oil Finish (natural color). That stuff is amazing! It'll really make the depth of the wood grain stand out.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:45 pm

Sheena, at least with an oil-finished Rick like your 650, dust is not a major problem, so you can use the RIC cloth to dust and polish it, dry.

Watco's I recommend because it has a petroleum solvent in it to allow it to penetrate the wood somewhat, and it also has wax added, so once you've wiped off the excess, you can buff and the surface comes up a treat. It looks nice and deep, too. It's brought my somewhat dull 380L back to life.

doctorwho · Post by **doctorwho** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:07 am

Pure tung oil will not give a full glossy look to the wood, rather it gives it a 'natural' (i.e., unpolished) look. One can choose which look one wants and use the corresponding product. It's nice to have choices!

BTW, I have some tung oil left over from when I owned my 380L PZ and 650S, so if anyone needs some, let me know.

twangs · Post by **twangs** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 6:19 pm

Zymol makes many products. Is this the stuff we're looking for?

http://www.elkparts.com/product_info.php/products_id/3325

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 8:27 pm

That's the stuff, Tony...

NOTE. This stuff is not like other waxes. You do NOT let it dry and buff it off because it has no kaolin in it. (That's the powdery residue that most waxes leave).

Apply thinly, then buff with dampened cotton cloth while it's still relatively fresh. Apply three coats, one right after the other. Buff well. Use a cotton cloth.