Best Polish
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- jingle_jangle
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Nothing to forgive, Keith, ask away...
I'd use the Scratch-X/Zymol treatment on any unchecked guitar or bass or ? with a glossy finish. However, since it's primarily an automotive product, it's best suited to instruments with automotive-type finishes. This covers all main brands of electrics.
I use it on RIC acoustics, because the finish on these is the same as the electrics, and hence, automotive. OK on Fender, Gibson, PRS, Epi, etc.
Nice, French-polished instruments should get a beeswax treatment--that's a furniture finish and should be fed like fine furniture.
http://www.thefurnitureconnoisseur.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=166
On something like a handmade acoustic, I'd use whatever the luthier recommends. If in doubt, Santa Cruz makes a very nice wax blend that would be good on a varnished or French-polished surface.
http://www.santacruzguitar.com/products/acousticguitaraccessories.html
Old Martins should be fed with the beeswax stuff, too.
The nice thing about beeswax products and the Santa Cruz stuff mentioned above is that it doesn't leave white residue in the fissures in checked surfaces.
I'd use the Scratch-X/Zymol treatment on any unchecked guitar or bass or ? with a glossy finish. However, since it's primarily an automotive product, it's best suited to instruments with automotive-type finishes. This covers all main brands of electrics.
I use it on RIC acoustics, because the finish on these is the same as the electrics, and hence, automotive. OK on Fender, Gibson, PRS, Epi, etc.
Nice, French-polished instruments should get a beeswax treatment--that's a furniture finish and should be fed like fine furniture.
http://www.thefurnitureconnoisseur.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=166
On something like a handmade acoustic, I'd use whatever the luthier recommends. If in doubt, Santa Cruz makes a very nice wax blend that would be good on a varnished or French-polished surface.
http://www.santacruzguitar.com/products/acousticguitaraccessories.html
Old Martins should be fed with the beeswax stuff, too.
The nice thing about beeswax products and the Santa Cruz stuff mentioned above is that it doesn't leave white residue in the fissures in checked surfaces.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
- jingle_jangle
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Um, I thought I said "glossy", Jake.
For non-glossy CV finishes, use "Brillianize":
http://www.brillianize.com/
For non-glossy CV finishes, use "Brillianize":
http://www.brillianize.com/
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
- jingle_jangle
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Not a hijack at all, Jake. Topic is finish care, and you're right in the ballpark.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
- jingle_jangle
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If it's original, Elys, it's CV. RIC (then Electro String) started using conversion varnish sometime in 1959.
But I use Scratch-X and Zymol on nitro-finished, pre-'59 Ricks, too, and it does a fabulous job.
However, allow me to caution that a very beat-up, oxidized, or otherwise heavily-weathered finish, whether it be nitro or CV, is a candidate for "leave it alone", or at the owner's option, a proper CV refinish.
But I use Scratch-X and Zymol on nitro-finished, pre-'59 Ricks, too, and it does a fabulous job.
However, allow me to caution that a very beat-up, oxidized, or otherwise heavily-weathered finish, whether it be nitro or CV, is a candidate for "leave it alone", or at the owner's option, a proper CV refinish.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
- jingle_jangle
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Chris, depends on how badly checked. I'd opt for the beeswax stuff discussed elsewhere in this thread. It won't leave white residue in the cracks.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
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sixtwentytwelve
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Re: Best Polish
I tried the Scratch-X and Zymol treatment and have already brought one older Ric back to life. Absolutely amazing. Saw the reference in this thread to nitro[cellulose lacquer], which prompts me to ask the following (apologies in advance for the off-Ric inquiry) -- can this treatment safely be used on a recent '52 reissue blonde Telecaster (USA) that purports to have a nitro finish? The Tele I have in mind is suffering from what appears to be some highly superficial "button rash" that it picked up on a dealer's showroom floor -- it's only visible at a certain angle, but it would be nice to get rid of it entirely. On the other hand, I would prefer not to try the Scratch-X/Zymol treatment if it might do more harm than good . . . any thoughts/advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!
- bob_atherton
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Re: Best Polish
My local guitar store was trying to get me to buy some Ernie Ball Wonderwipes (?) Never used them, any good? 

(And now it'd be easier for me to explain why it'd never become yet another doll's dress...)