De-Lacquering your fretboard
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
De-Lacquering your fretboard
Evening People,
Has any formite taken Ed Romans up on his offer of de-lacquering the fretboard on their Rickenbacker yet?
I think Rick do lay it on a bit thick and generally prefer the feel of the natural wood on my fretboards. I am therefore thinking about having it done to one of mine.
I welcome any comments you guy's may have.
Has any formite taken Ed Romans up on his offer of de-lacquering the fretboard on their Rickenbacker yet?
I think Rick do lay it on a bit thick and generally prefer the feel of the natural wood on my fretboards. I am therefore thinking about having it done to one of mine.
I welcome any comments you guy's may have.
- tennis_nick
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There will be alot of "RIcks are great as they are" change it are you crazy? types of comment, but I can say, this mod looks like it'd be great! even though the rick laquered board feels good to me, I like the unfinised rosewood alot too!
there was an ebay er a few monthes ago who had Ricks with un laquered boards, trapeze tailpieces, and "regular" 12 string arangement, who kept boasting about how they were "supposed" to be made.
sold pretty cheap, wonder if anyone here got one?
there was an ebay er a few monthes ago who had Ricks with un laquered boards, trapeze tailpieces, and "regular" 12 string arangement, who kept boasting about how they were "supposed" to be made.
sold pretty cheap, wonder if anyone here got one?
The Raven wrote:Nevermore
It's not lacquer...it's conversion varnish for what it's worth. 

'73 4001 MG '88 4003S JG '89 4003S FG '91 4003S MG
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dale_fortune
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Zubair..You can use Acetone on a white cotton cloth to remove the finish from the fingerboard. Extreme care must be taken as not to get any Acetone on the neck /body finish or the plastic binding. Put Acetone on cloth, rub the fingerboard until a desired effect is reached. This is a long process time wise. There are other ways to do this, but this is the simplest way without doing a complete refret.
- jingle_jangle
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Ricks are great as they are... but personalized mods are always just that - personal preference.
But since I just got my brand new 350v63 with it's shiney fretboard, I cannot understand why anyone would want to un-shine it. ACETONE? I'd rather slit my wrists than bring acetone anywhere near my now-favorite guitar.
But since I just got my brand new 350v63 with it's shiney fretboard, I cannot understand why anyone would want to un-shine it. ACETONE? I'd rather slit my wrists than bring acetone anywhere near my now-favorite guitar.
“The urge to save humanity is always a false front for the urge to rule it.” ....H. L. Mencken
- jingle_jangle
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Sheena, when I said, "Ricks are great as they are", I was referring to the instruments as they are designed and conceived, not to one individual instrument which may need restoration or refinishing.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
- jingle_jangle
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I am not trying to contradict Dale's post above, but I am attempting to make any person who wishes to do this, aware of the difficulties which need to be anticipated.
First, acetone. strictly speaking, is not a solvent for CV; it mayl soften the CV but will not actually dissolve it. It is, however, hell on bindings and fretboard inlays.
The "sharks-tooth" deluxe fretboard inlays are polyester resin and will have their surfaces softened, although this will re-harden with time. There is a danger of surface-checking whenever polyester resin is solvent-compromised, as well.
The "dot" markers used on standard models are thermoplastic and will dissolve or shrink if too much acetone is applied.
On unbound necks, where do you position the seam between the CV finish and unfinished areas? If at the edge of the fretboard (like a C58), how do you keep it looking clean and sharp?
Dale is a professional luthier with lots of experience. No doubt he's done this more times than he can count. But anyone without his expertise and background, would be well-advised to proceed with caution.
First, acetone. strictly speaking, is not a solvent for CV; it mayl soften the CV but will not actually dissolve it. It is, however, hell on bindings and fretboard inlays.
The "sharks-tooth" deluxe fretboard inlays are polyester resin and will have their surfaces softened, although this will re-harden with time. There is a danger of surface-checking whenever polyester resin is solvent-compromised, as well.
The "dot" markers used on standard models are thermoplastic and will dissolve or shrink if too much acetone is applied.
On unbound necks, where do you position the seam between the CV finish and unfinished areas? If at the edge of the fretboard (like a C58), how do you keep it looking clean and sharp?
Dale is a professional luthier with lots of experience. No doubt he's done this more times than he can count. But anyone without his expertise and background, would be well-advised to proceed with caution.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
I have one, but hell would freeze over twice before Ed Roman would ever get near one of my Rickenbackers. My 360 and 360/12 and 660/12 had it, my 250 and 2030 didn't. My current 12WB had it, but was switched when the full-width frets and new nut spacing were installed by Mark Arnquist.
It's a different look and as far as I can tell, a purely cosmetic preference issue. In some ways, I think it may look a bit neater or cleaner than varnish piled up against the frets, but I can't necessarily say that I think it looks better. It's just different. The rumors that it makes the neck faster, etc. seem to be bull from what I can tell. I'm not the least bit sure that I could really tell any substantial feel differences if I was playing in the dark.

It's a different look and as far as I can tell, a purely cosmetic preference issue. In some ways, I think it may look a bit neater or cleaner than varnish piled up against the frets, but I can't necessarily say that I think it looks better. It's just different. The rumors that it makes the neck faster, etc. seem to be bull from what I can tell. I'm not the least bit sure that I could really tell any substantial feel differences if I was playing in the dark.

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dale_fortune
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Over the years I have done this, I don't recommend this modification, but if someone asks to have it done, who am I to argue with them. It was a simple question and I gave a simple answer. I also use a box cutter blade as a scraper blade to take the finish off, simple, works quick, but do it carefully.
