360/12 Action (How many screw turns?)

estambre · Post by **estambre** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 8:16 am

Hi, everybody.

I'm a beginner with a year's practice and have owned my 12-string 360 Rick since summer.

The other day a friend with 20 years' expertise adviced me to check the action because he thought it was quite high. He said it was easy and he could do it for me (or I could do it myself). He compared the Rick's to my other guitar's action which made his point absolutely clear. I didn't have to press that much to fret.

We didn't have any tools with us so it had to wait. When I got my hands on the proper Allen key (this is continental Europe: we have the metrical system and I had to look around till I found the needed gauge...)

Being a beginner I thought: the lower the better. After re-tuning the 12 strings, I realized the sound was all wrong. Most strings were touching the pick-ups near the bridge.

2nd re-tuning and adjustment: I can't make the strings get as low as in the other guitar (an unknown Japanese make) without scratching the pick-up. This problem gets worse when you palm mute.

Can anybody who owns a Rick say how many turns of the adjusting screws would be fine?

Remember we don't have inches (I'm in Spain).
I know this is going to sound straightforward and may be inconsiderate towards theory and all, but can you tell me the exact number of screw turns
you would recommend for pretty average settings?

Thanks a lot

admin · Post by **admin** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 9:05 am

Fede: Here is one set-up technique that covers the procedure quite well. It is from the Rickenbacker Archives.

First, there is a helpful order to setting up/adjusting an instrument. Should you change this order, it is advised that you start over.

1- Tune to the pitch you will be using.

2- Check the truss rod(s).

3- Adjust the truss rods by fretting the low string at the 1st fret and at the same time the fret where the neck joins the body. There should be a gap of .004 to .015 for guitars and .010 to .020 for basses. These measurements are in inches. The gap you are looking for is between the string and the 6th fret and the same at the octave/12th fret.

4- Check the nut by fretting the strings at the 2nd fret(a capo may help you) and there should be a gap between the string and the fret of .005 to .010 on the plain strings and .009 to .018 on the wound strings. This is personal preference. You may wish to cut nut slots higher on the bass/wound strings for acoustics. On a 12 string, getting the action as low as possible makes it easier to play.

5- Set the bridge height. A useful rule is, you must,on a 6 string guitar,set the high E/1st string so you can bend a whole step. Some people may want a step and 1/2. Once this string is set adjust the low E string to it's height. Around .085 of an inch is okay for most people and the acoustic players need it higher. It also depends on the radius of the fretboard. In the case of Fender's 7&1/4" radius, set the low E the same height as the high E. The rest just get set to follow the radius.

On a 10" radius leave the low E and the A just a hair out of the radius. meaning by 1/2 the thickness of the string to 1/3 the thickness up out of the radius. It's barely noticable yet these strings get hit with the most force.

6- Set the intonation and you are done.

In the case of pickups with magnets for polepieces, lower them to get the least amount of magnet pull on the strings. This gives the clearest 'view' should you use a strobe tuner.

Fede: I am not a big fan of trying to count the number of turns of the bridge screws as there are many factors to consider. Your bass strings (low E) should be 5/64 (a rough estimate is 2 mm) of an inch above the fretboard at the 12th fret. The high e string should be bout 3/64 (a rough estimate is 1.5 mm) of an inch above the fretboard at the 12th fret. But to answer your question, my bridge is situated where it needs to be on my 450/12 and my Model 350 and the height I use can be obtained by making seven complete turns of the bridge screws. Beware, you may need more or fewer turns to get it right for your intstrument.

I really favour raising your bridge a bit high and then slowing lowering it to where the string height is right. Let us know how you make out.

grsnovi · Post by **grsnovi** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 5:41 pm

Fede - You must also consider that you might need to lower the pickup. The pickups sit on rubber grommets which will compress when you tighten the mounting screws.

admin · Post by **admin** » Fri Nov 07, 2003 1:18 am

Excellent point Gary.

mike381 · Post by **mike381** » Fri Nov 07, 2003 1:37 pm

Peter you said,"Set the bridge height.
A useful rule is, you must,on a 6 string guitar,set the high E/1st string so you can bend a whole step. Some people may want a step and 1/2. "

Does that mean, "The higher the bridge the more room to bend?" So, you then have to choose between the lowest possible action and bending room?

I'm still working on my 381 12 and love all of this info. Thanks.

admin · Post by **admin** » Fri Nov 07, 2003 3:16 pm

Mike318: To me, this is a matter of personal preference. You quickly reach a point where the bridge is too high and your ability to play is limited. I agree, you have to choose between the lowest possible action and your bending preference. There is a trade off.