Scratch-X on a nitro finish??

[peewee]

Is this recommendable? Reason I'm asking is that I just took delivery of a very nice Gibson ES-335 with a few light scratches in the top. Just wanted to check before I did something I'll regret later. Thanks!

[peewee]

Problem solved. I used some Chapin Focus fine grade polish/cleaner and a couple of soft diapers on the area and it's as good as new.

[jingle_jangle]

Well, that was fast!

For the record, Scratch-X does a great job on nitro. I used it on a '57 Combo that I refinned in Jetglo and it brought the gloss up very nicely.

It's also good for celluloid guards and nickel and chrome plating (don't use it on gold plating!). Won't remove pits, though...

[peewee]

Good to know, Paul. I've noticed that there are a few buffer swirl marks in the finish ( nothing like that fabulous Gibby QC ), so I'll most likely hit it with the Scratch-X later this week. Thanks for the info!

[elysrand]

Paul, ever try using that Iron-Out chemical on chrome pits? I tried using that (with parts removed from guitar), then a good rinsing in water, then a treatment with the reducer Tarn-X, then a good rinsing, then a sorta-abrasive chrome polish. While nothing will ever eliminate pitting (except abrasive restoral, polishing and a new metal plating sequence), this chemical sequence did minimize the surface roughness and blended it fairly well to the touch and eye-at-a-distance.

The chrome piece (a tailpiece) is still not mirrorish, but it has vastly improved smoothness, and the pits are flatter and appear smaller. Now, you can't tell there is any pitting or corrosion at all from a distance of three feet or more. Since Iron-Out is a chemical specific to iron and steel, and is a reducer that puts back electrons lost to oxidation, I don't know why it helped with redox of chromium, nickel, or copper, or with exposed aluminum substrate, but the whole things does noticeably turn out better with it than without.