RIC selling one-of-a-kind experimental finish 4003 on eBay!

[sloop_john_b]

I think JH has stated here that he wouldn't put the sparklies on a bass neck again as he was concerned about the full-width cut weakening the neck.

But it's okay on the guitars? I can't believe such a small amount of wood would be the difference between a stable neck and a significantly weaker neck. Those old basses with the f/w inlays seem to be holding up okay, apart from some bad truss rod turns by unwitting "luthiers".

[rickenbrother]

I think JH has stated here that he wouldn't put the sparklies on a bass neck again as he was concerned about the full-width cut weakening the neck.

But it's okay on the guitars? I can't believe such a small amount of wood would be the difference between a stable neck and a significantly weaker neck. Those old basses with the f/w inlays seem to be holding up okay, apart from some bad truss rod turns by unwitting "luthiers".

I think a few years ago, he also mentioned that he hasn't found a current source for sparkly inlay material that he felt was suitable for full width use in the basses and that if he found good enough material, he would use it.

[86kubicki]

But remember that the work has already been done on the existing guitar models with full width inlays (660, 381, 360C). To implement this on a bass neck would probably mean quite a bit of CNC programming.

A change like that in a cnc program should be a piece of cake. That's a pretty simple cut pattern.

Remember that things which may appear simple and straight forward to us laypeople may not be at all when actually implemented by RIC.

[incubus2432]

Remember that things which may appear simple and straight forward to us laypeople may not be at all when actually implemented by RIC.

No problem.....just a little elfin magic!

[teeder]

Now that's what we need! Elfin Magic!

"remember that things which may appear simple and straight forward to us laypeople may not be at all when actually implemented by RIC."

That could be. I may be taking things a little for granted, because I have 8 guys in the enginneering dept here that could re-write the program during their lunch break! RIC may not have access to that locally.

(Hmm, I may have someone whip out a mold so I can make sparkley inlay blanks! )

[cavernplayer]

Maybe it's just me............but I really like the color scheme as well as the checkered binding. Now only if it came in a lefty model!

cp

[RIC_FACTORY]

I think a few years ago, he also mentioned that he hasn't found a current source for sparkly inlay material that he felt was suitable for full width use in the basses and that if he found good enough material, he would use it.

Dead on Joey...

[qwezirider]

Ironic current bid.

[jps]

If all the bidders had any pride, they would let it end right there!

[jingle_jangle]

Now that's what we need! Elfin Magic!

"remember that things which may appear simple and straight forward to us laypeople may not be at all when actually implemented by RIC."

That could be. I may be taking things a little for granted, because I have 8 guys in the enginneering dept here that could re-write the program during their lunch break! RIC may not have access to that locally.

(Hmm, I may have someone whip out a mold so I can make sparkley inlay blanks! )

RIC has a pull-time CNC programmer on-staff.

How would you get those chunks of pearl through a mold gate?

[teeder]

I meant a mold block that I could pour the resin into to make sheets.

Kind of just thinking out loud.

Paul, I'll follow up with a PM.

[elysrand]

I have often heard it said that different processes produce nearly the same thing. The key is how nearly is near, I guess.

Dale said at one point, IIRC, that in 1972 the factory was buying pre-made sheets from some vendor, and then cutting and fitting the sheet pieces into channels cut into the neck on some jig. Then, in the transitional basses in 1973 they were poured with the ground dust mixed in by hand and the ends of the channels taped or otherwise "dammed up" while the two-part acrylic resin cured into solidity. Then, not only did the partial-width routs allow the fingerboard edge to help with neck beam strength/stiffness, they also did away with the need to "dam" up the ends and the process was simplified to just pouring the rout full or acrylic mix.

Paul has said that he mixes the clear resin with pearlescent powder and does the "dam up the ends" method when pouring inlays in his restoration. I also think I have heard Dale and Paul say they buy some pre-made sheets too. Dale also, I think, has said he mixes and pours acrylic resin with flakes embedded to produce something very close to the look of the mid-sixties to early seventies "sparkley" flaked inlays.

Finally, I think I have heard that John cannot find a vendor anymore with pre-made sheet stock that has the exact look of the early "sparkley" inlay material that we all so treasure on our Period Ricks.

Question - if some vendor were to start making the pre-made 12x12 slabs of "sparkley" inlay material , and it looked exactly like that wonderful stuff we saw from the mid-sixties to the early seventies, would there not be a market for it, and would RIC perhaps go back to using the stuff for certain of their guitars?

[johnallg]

What has been posted on the inlays and materials used at the RIC forums:

http://www.rickenbacker.com/forum_view_ ... %20Markers

[elysrand]

What has been posted on the inlays and materials used at the RIC forums:

http://www.rickenbacker.com/forum_view_ ... %20Markers

Yep, that's about what I remembered too. In addition to this, Paul Wilczynski has documented in the Reflections of a Curmudgeon Forum, with photographs, how he individually pours each marker on Rick vintage necks and mixes in the pearl dust or the flakes - depending upon which style full-width inlay fret markers the customer wants. Doesn't it appear intuitive that poured markers fit better and may be less likely to pop out or weaken the neck as glued-in markers?

It is not clear from those comments on the RIC Forum whether the factory pours or just cuts and glues-in the markers. One might therefore assume that it is most likely they just glue in pre-cut plastic markers for speed and efficiency, contrary to what I might have assumed earlier.

Hey, John's comments in the RIC forum did not exclude the possibility of his considering the use of a suitable old-style product if he COULD find it once again! I confess I kinda share Dale's opinion on which looks best....

[teeder]

Ah, good info there, guys! Thanks!