Set up Specs on a 450
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
Set up Specs on a 450
Just got my 1976 450 6-string today and seems like the action is a bit high in the upper registers (at least in comparison to my 480). What are the proper set up specs for a 450? Thanks in advance!
Re: Set up Specs on a 450
How are you at adjusting dual truss rods?
Re: Set up Specs on a 450
Have never done a dual truss before... only single. Guess that answers the question. Time to take it to a tech!
Re: Set up Specs on a 450
No, it's easy to learn. Just make sure 1) you have the correct tool, and 2) you only turn about 1/4 turn at a time, let it adjust (I allow 24 hours). Set the bottom of the guitar on your shoe and look down from the headstock to see how straight it is. Sometimes a guitar will bow more on one side than the other, and the dual truss rods will allow you to compensate for that. Keep us posted! Cheers, J
- sloop_john_b
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Re: Set up Specs on a 450
Actually, it's different on Ricks pre-1985 (or so). Not so simple as the system you describe, which is the system now.jdogric12aolcom wrote:No, it's easy to learn. Just make sure 1) you have the correct tool, and 2) you only turn about 1/4 turn at a time, let it adjust (I allow 24 hours). Set the bottom of the guitar on your shoe and look down from the headstock to see how straight it is. Sometimes a guitar will bow more on one side than the other, and the dual truss rods will allow you to compensate for that. Keep us posted! Cheers, J
Re: Set up Specs on a 450
D'oh! I can't get anything right today! Thanks JB for the correction.
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Set up Specs on a 450
Hmm...macg1, no doubt you're wondering just how to adjust the earlier rods. The only difference between the procedure Jdog outlines above (which is for later, non-folded rods), and the procedure for the rods on your 450, is that you must lay the guitar on its back on a soft towel on a flat and stable table top, and have a friend hold the body down frmly while you preload the neck by pressing down on the headstock while you tighten each rod a quarter-turn.
This preloading procedure is only necessary if you're tightening the rod nuts. If you're loosening them, there is no need to preload the neck.
The purpose of preloading is to remove the tension load from the rods, and transfer it to the neck wood. It bends the neck backwards, stretching the fretboard slightly and compressing the back of the neck, placing the truss rods into a more or less neutral state, which allows you to tighten the nut a bit. Then, releasing the preload, re-loads the rod. Its then recommended to allow the neck to settle into its new equilibrium for a day or so, before checking and repeating as necessary. This is to remove excess relief from the neck; the side with more relief will require a bit mre tightening. Caution: Rick necks are very responsive to adjustments. A little goes a long way.
A proper adjustment can last years, even decades, providing there are no huge climatic changes or big changes in string tension brought on by changes in flat-to-round wound, or lighter to heavier gauge strings or vice-versa.
This preloading procedure is only necessary if you're tightening the rod nuts. If you're loosening them, there is no need to preload the neck.
The purpose of preloading is to remove the tension load from the rods, and transfer it to the neck wood. It bends the neck backwards, stretching the fretboard slightly and compressing the back of the neck, placing the truss rods into a more or less neutral state, which allows you to tighten the nut a bit. Then, releasing the preload, re-loads the rod. Its then recommended to allow the neck to settle into its new equilibrium for a day or so, before checking and repeating as necessary. This is to remove excess relief from the neck; the side with more relief will require a bit mre tightening. Caution: Rick necks are very responsive to adjustments. A little goes a long way.
A proper adjustment can last years, even decades, providing there are no huge climatic changes or big changes in string tension brought on by changes in flat-to-round wound, or lighter to heavier gauge strings or vice-versa.
Re: Set up Specs on a 450
Alright, after a few days of adjustments I finally got it!! Thanks for all the help guys. I must say that the sound of this 450 is quite amazing. It covers all the sonic ground that i need. The bridge is a great jangle and the neck pickup can get thick!! Interesting to not the differences between this guitar and my Ric 480, even though they have the same PUP's. Maybe it is because someone replaced the standard Ric bridge on my 480 with a stop tail... I am so happy now and think I have become a full fledged Ric player!
- sangandongo
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Re: Set up Specs on a 450
Seeing as I have inherited Gio's (macg1) 450, I thought I'd ask. What gauge string are these typically set up for out of the factory. I tend to play 10s or 11s. Gio plays 10s I believe. I was thinking of taking it to 11, but don't know how much strain it will place on the neck, necessitating a new setup job on it.
Also... I'm going to start a new thread about this guitar shortly, showing everyone how NOT to modify your guitar.
Later
--
john
Also... I'm going to start a new thread about this guitar shortly, showing everyone how NOT to modify your guitar.
Later
--
john
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Set up Specs on a 450
You are OK with Rick 10s. I'd try TI 11s, too. I have not had any difficulties switching from the RIC 10-46 set to the TI 11 set. YMMV, however.
- sangandongo
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Re: Set up Specs on a 450
I threw tens on it for now. If I feel I need a little more meat, I'll put 11s on. I recently lost the tip of my left hand pinky, so its still a bit ginger... I decided to go with the lighter gauge. 
Re: Set up Specs on a 450
10's with a wound 3rd always did me right.
